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HFHs "Centre Winch" Build Thread - ( Finally )


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Rightyho then

To the top bit

I have today made up a tube (52mm CDS) same as the cage, and added in a Vertical tube from the X to the top Horizontal tube,

I know from earlier feedback that this was needed, took a ferkin age to get the Frog Mouths rights for the two X tubes and the top

tube but happy with the result ..............and its now welded in good and F properly :)

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So, I have this nice Top Fairlead, which is a unit made from 4 x 90 degree diary grade stainless 4mm thick wall steel, tig

welded for me by a tame mate who did this before I did my Tig Course !....is a work of art and I have rumbled it for yonks so its now super

smooth and around 2.5" OD tube and around 5" wide etc.

It need to be fixed to the rear horizonatal frame of the cage, a la like here :

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And, if I am honest I am confused as to how to do this and where to put gussets or tubes, I have some tube and even my logic says

to run a horizontal tube from the main horizonatal rear cage tube to the X on the roof ? but then I just go around in circles with thoughts :(

I was thinking of getting a chunk of playe (6-10mm) boring a hole into it so the donut sit in it a bit but well proud, and then Tigging top and bottom

but as to how to weld / mount the plate I just have no idea ????

HELP (again)

Nige

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5mm will be plenty. Not that saying that will have any impact of course.......... :P

The vertical stiffeners need to be about 6" tall to spread the load into the tube as gently as possible.

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Nige, have a look at my thread on here. We made gussets that work well. We've used the centre winch as both a front and back without bending it. We're on a TSS with bow 2 :)

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^^

:) ta Zim

And with the above and Sir Bish of Boshvilles superb helpfull drawing HFH Towers leap into action today after

about 5 coffees and a bacon sarnie,

Top plate / ball time for the centre winch

1st some serious CAD design (cardboard Aided design) saw this as a translation from BishBoshes drawing :

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This had the tubes, and fillets and shape of the top plate

But before that a Tube running from the top bar to the cross X on the roof was made :

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And welded in place "Big Time"

Then the CAD piece was converted with some time and effort into 6mm plate mit hole :

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and then TIGged welded from underneath and a TIG MIG combo to the top of the plate :

post-22-0-37416300-1370372159_thumb.jpg post-22-0-66850800-1370372168_thumb.jpg

The the fillets were made, these are 2" at the top, 1" at the bottom and rounded off and 11" Long the plate welded in so many planes its quite unreal !

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And then when the assembly has cooled down a lick of paint :

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Hoping this passes the BishBoshsealofapproval :blink:

But happy with the finished process, which is very different if I had (wrongly) done my way !!!!

I can see the simplicity and cleverness in this set up, far beyond my knowledge, thanks again Charles :i-m_so_happy:

So, next is to fit a Goldfish Remote from David Bowyer, and wire it all up, this will have a plug for a wander lead and internal control as well

so there is far more yet to be done, but the main platework is now I think sorted :D

More laters

Nige

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Not much further but some ......

The Goldfish can have a very neat air free spool, I made the ones I have on the front russian military "Thing"

and the one on the rear PTO driven Milemarker, took an age of "3 Bears" type "Engineering" :D

So, I boight one from Bowyer, impressed.

Soleniod, comes in bits takes about 15 seconds to assemble (makes you wonder why not assembled !)

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Ready to plumb in to the ARB lines maybe tommorow.

And then you undo the screw holding the freespool lever with winch in locked position,

grab the freespool unit, put 2 washers on top of the remains sticking up on the winch and pop the unit on and do the new bigger bolt

in and job done ! Tested by air line in it and works superbly " Simple and dead easy to fit, there is a selection of bits to

allow me to hopefully "t" into the ARB without going hunting for bits :) - Neat !!

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Which leaves the power wires x 3 and earth to the winch, I had some old cable in the workshop, so new ends, heat shrink and some old boots

see F1 F2 and A wired up, these are "Underneath" now, and the earth is at the top.

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So, winch can now go back onto the mounting for hopefully the final time, and the wiring continue tommorow maybe :) ?

Nige

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  • 2 weeks later...
Does it still fit in the garage? :P

Of course it does........you do realise the whole reason he's fitting this is so he can attach the winch rope to the beam in the garage so he can winch it off the ground to stop the tyres flat spotting where it never moves for so long........

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Well, some more done this weekend.........

Wired up the Goldfish Motor, F1 F2 and A have short wires, and then I have a long wire for power going to the passenger side

of the rear bulkhead, same with the Earth....all have rubber boots covering terminals, I will also make a cover for the soleniod

arweas ahen all finished for saftey of shackles and snatch block landing on 1500 amps worth of sparkyness :D (and yes lost the wingnuts !)

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Bit of fabbing and altering gives me a nice easy access "Kill Switch" for the winch

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90 Ft of 12mm fits on neatly - I have to sort out the remote more, I ma going to have a Socket mounted on the top

of the kill switch unit for a plug in wander lead, and then a MON on / Off MOM On switch in the roof consolde, so I can have it controlled

from either inside or outside......also need to order some big grommets for the wires from the Kill Switch Box through the bulkhead as couldn't find anything

anywhere !!

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Bent uop a Hook for the rope to fix to, done here as easy to get to, and I can see it for respooling from drivers seat !, done on the High lift mount

(also altered to give gap for rope) so that if it goes wrong it just bends a couple of M10 bolts !!

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Rear view, coming on now, just need to make up long harness for the 2 x controls / remotes, and sort the air to the freespool prev fitted

bolt in hydro tank now have the new extended joiner main feed, and a few other bits, but it lives (of a fashion)

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Nige

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Some good work there Nige.

One thing I have been recommended is that the solenoids shouldn't be mounted on their side, this can cause them to stick, either in open or worse case closed position, and are much better with the terminals pointing down.

If it's the original Goodwinch solenoid rather than an Albright, I would look at smearing some silicon around it, as they aren't quite as waterproof as they could be for whatever reason.

:)

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Hardy Ha

We had all this long time ago, and I took it to the Guikldford weighbridge and it was no where near as heavy as peeps think.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=1081

Now truck cab with 52mm CDS Cage vs Hardtop and BS1353 48.3mm Thick wall cage :) ....springs are lighter ratings than before so it weighs LESS :P

Yes I know in the old Hybrid Jon White collapsed laughing when he found a 35mm x 10in x 10in square lump of steel under the cuibby box as a "Lifter"

.....but I'm not like that anymore :P

Much ... :blush:

Nige

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You'll regret using that plastic kill switch........I've melted far too many of those they're carp! Spend the money now and upgrade to one of the decent durite metal handled ones..........you have been warned!

I still don't believe you'll ever use a remote. Mount a switch on the dash, maybe another one on the box where you're proposing to fit the socket. Job done. Nobody uses remotes these days.......

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