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Steering box rebuild - not quite gone to plan


mickeyw

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Cheers Ralph, don't bust a gut though.

Paddock has them for about £20 but are out of stock until next month.

I'm going to take a cutter to this one as I don't know if the box can be fixed until it's off.

I think I'm going to get a 4 bolt box anyway, even if I can get a few more miles out of this one.

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Parts that hold on a taper don't like to shift with pressure alone. Generally a good impact will be needed as well. You have to be careful how you do this though to avoid damage to the bearings and they're running faces.

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Parts that hold on a taper don't like to shift with pressure alone. Generally a good impact will be needed as well. You have to be careful how you do this though to avoid damage to the bearings and they're running faces.

Indeed, the hole in the bottom of the press tool takes a bar that can be belted downwards, I've also had a bar in from the side to shock it.

It's had some heat (not too much) and sat in the press since yesterday.

Still not moved. I suspect it's never been off and its 26 years old!

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Thanks Ralph, I'll have to let you know once the box is apart.

Drop arm is finally off, took the grinder to it and split it, even then it still took a puller to shift it.

Anyway the sector shaft seal land is not looking good, I'll be stripping the box over the weekend to see if it's worth saving.

It may clean up or as Nigel says, speedi sleeve. Depends if I find anything else wrong.

Pictures to follow!

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Box is now stripped, inspected, cleaned and reassembled.

Sector shaft seal land was in a bad way but that appeared to be the only fault.

post-8621-0-35214300-1430598496_thumb.jpg

I gave it a good clean and a polish, and put it back in, I'll be fitting a speedi sleeve and a pair of generic oil seals.

post-8621-0-75123300-1430598710_thumb.jpg

post-8621-0-61980100-1430598743_thumb.jpg

Ralph, I'll take that drop arm thanks, let me know how much you want.

Oh yes, this was what I had to do to get mine off.

post-8621-0-73305100-1430598972_thumb.jpg

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Replied. :i-m_so_happy:

I'll post more when I have all the bits, I'm sourcing some generic seals and I can seen a couple of things worth pointing out to anyone using a speedi sleeve on a steering box.

I needed to sleeve a small gearbox output shaft that sits in the weather, the only sleeve I could find that was the right diameter was too long and had a shoulder. I thought no problem I'll shrink fit the sleeve onto a mandrel and size it in the lathe. I did that on a shaft and then couldn't get the blasted sleeve off. Yeah I could have seen that coming ;-/

I reckon the sleeves have numerous applications for LR refurbishing but most of the information on line assumes the reader knows a lot about them to start with.

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One thought crossed my mind on this; would there be any better lubricant/fluid available nowadays that would reduce/eliminate the problem. I'm just wondering for how long it will be possible to just get a new box, so if one did, it would be good to try to preserve it for as long as possible. It only needs a small quantity of fluid, so cost shouldn't be a major issue.

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Just a quick FWIW, the sector shaft on these things tend to fatigue fail after a few km and years, I've heard of a few letting go here in Oz when they up around the 350,000km mark/over ten years old and there were a few letting go in South America, one of the Argentinian members posted photo's.

One of the blokes on the AULRO forum ran off the highway and through a barbed wire fence when it let go, luckily not hitting anything but it really put the wind up him.

It's just made me question the value of rebuilding them, mines leaking like a seive and I have a full seal kit (mainly leaking from that square section seal behind the adjuster) but I'll think I'll just stump up for a new 'box when I can afford it.

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No, I've been ignoring the warnings of imminent failure for some time, I've now had to repair the circuit board.

I'm still reeling at spending £1.78 in Maplins!

Well that will teach you! I hope you've learned a lesson there :P

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Pasted below are my musing from when I had a 6 bolter! Good box but I wanted to run Sumo bars and the Disco style track rod end setup so went with a 4bolter after 3 or 4 years of running the rebuilt Gemmer.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=58812

Quote;

I know you can get a refurbed PAS box for £180 odd quid or so but I have the means and time at work to do it myself, anyway for anyone else bored/stupid/tightfisted enough to want to rebuild a 6 bolt Gemmer HD PAS box themselves-below is a list of the stuff you need.

Instructions;
http://www.landrover...0_WSM_book4.pdf

Additional parts required to rebuild a 6 bolt Gemmer PAS box other than a standard aftermarket seal kit from Ebay/Paddocks etc (Part number RTC5071).
The genuine LR kit is £157 als5

Top cap bearing (retained by the 6 bolts);
Torrington B2012 full compliment roller 1 required

Main housing bearings;
Upper- Torrington B2016 full complement roller 1 required
Lower- Torrington B2020 full compliment roller 1 required

Input shaft;
Torrington B126 or IKO BA126Z

Seals

Input shaft seal;
Use standard 27*19*5 seal provided in kit, however if input shaft is worn/pitted use SKF or Chicago Rawhide Speedi Sleave part number 99076 in conjunction with standard seal.
http://www2.chicago-.../PDF/457027.pdf

Main shaft seal;
Upper/Inner high pressure seal, OE part-use instead of item provided in seal kit.
Claron Hydraulic seals Ltd, Polyseal part number P175125/1
Page 59 http://www.claron.co...df/claron10.pdf (they will send you one as a sample if you blag them)

Dirt wiper/lower seal;
Use 45*32*6mm seal provided in kit or part number 10004219 from Eriks seals&orings
http://www.eapseals.com/

Additional dirt wiper/lower seal
Eriks V ring type A, part number 10014205 size ref V32A

Settingtool;
Dingocraft, http://shop.dingocro...ther_tools.html
Or turned & externally knurled aluminium collar, dimensions: overall diameter 63.5mm (2.5"), internal diameter 19mm (0.75"), height 25mm (1.0")

It all makes a bit more sense when you remove the two shafts from the box, however the output shaft seal arrangement is that the Claron seal goes in first, or is the upper seal, with the EAP lip seal on the lower or bottom. The V ring type seals are additional and not normally fitted but offer increased sealing helping to keep dirt out of the seal housing area.

Mines been fine 3 years after I rebuilt it.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Just to say the box is back in and (currently) leak free.

Replacement drop arm thanks to Ralph, aka "Western" :i-m_so_happy:

I couldn't find the correct seal, so I fitted a generic one from simply bearings.

After it was all back together I saw RustyNissanPrairie had identified the correct one!

I'll see how this one lasts for now.

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