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Should I buy ex rental Defender 110 TD5 CSW from SHB


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Hi,

The first vehicle I ever drove was a landrover defender wolf during my time in the army. I lived in this machine at times, travelled all over the country, off road courses, tactical driving etc. I loved this vehicle, it was a part of me and I crave that feeling again ! I am going to see a Defender 110 TD5 CSW next week. It is being sold by a company called SHB a 4x4 hire company. I imagine the fleet will be well looked after and regularly serviced. I just want to know if anyone has any experience of ex rental companies like SHB and whether it would be a good idea to buy from them. Its a 2005 model with 86000 miles on the clock.

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I've used some SHB hire vehicles in the past few years, most were 110 CSW or SW's, new or 2 to 4 years old, all were good din't give me any problems except for 1 which would not go into low range, that was fixed by one of SHB's fitters in about 1 hour, same rules apply to any used vehicle condition is everything, take your time & don't blindly buy the first you see, there a lots out there to choose from.

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It's likely to have been well serviced, but hire cars are badly abused by customers. Condition is everything, so take a thorough look underneath to check for corrosion or mud buildups in the nooks and crannies (take a torch and small mirror to help the inspection), and look for dents in the chassis cross members and diff pans, and for bent steering rods. Also look for any signs of stretching or distortion on the tow hitch assembly and the chassis where the hitch assembly is attached. If they're all good, and the test drive seems good (especially at speed, where the vehicle is likely to show any signs of being thrashed), then you should be alright. I haven't heard anything negative about SHB, and it's in their interests to maintain the vehicles properly to avoid recovery, repair and compensation claims from break downs. Many private Defenders are also abused and thrashed, and many are poorly maintained, most notoriously farm vehicles, so don't be put off by this one's history.

Other than that, inspect it like any other second hand Defender - check for operation of all gears and services (lights, wipers, heater, accessories and so on), look for corrosion of the bulkhead (around the vents, foot wells, windscreen clamps and door hinges) and the door frames and skins, cracks in the wind screen frame, movement of the spare wheel on the back door, play in wheel bearings or steering components, pitting of the front axle swivels, brake disc condition, tyre wear patterns, leaks and so on. Listen for a big clunk when driving off - if it only does it when pulling away or braking, then it's probably the A-frame ball joint on the rear axle, which is not too expensive, but if it happens on each gear change, it's the gear box ad transfer box wear (not so common on such a late vehicle, but a hire vehicle that has been thrashed or towed overweight trailers could suffer).

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Thanks for the prompt replies. I intend to use this as a family vehicle. Daily commute of about 10-15 miles a day. Pack it for weekends in the mountains and occasional camping trips. Maybe the odd off road day for old times sake. I have spent months researching this vehicle, weighing up the pro's and cons. The cost of running it isn't an issue my only concern is reliability. As long as it starts and gets me too and from where I want to go then hopefully I will enjoy it as much as I used too. I would be grateful for any more advice about this model regarding the original post and the reliability of this model.

A great forum, cheers

Cammy

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driver must be 21 or older to drive a 12 seat 110, otherwise it's the same as any other car/MPV type vehicle.

a PSV licence is ONLY needed if the vehicle is used as a working public service vehicle where passengers pay a fare, the minibus licence part comes in if it's used as a club [scouts for example] transport.

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Just a thought about the mileage - see if you can get them to include a clutch and clutch fork replacement in the deal; if they have their own workshops, it'll be much cheaper for them to do it at cost than for you to pay a garage, and at that mileage, I suspect the clutch plates will be coming up for renewal and the clutch fork, if the same as on Tdi models, will be near the end of its life.

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I bought an ex-Vodafone 110 2.5TD some years back, it had full service history, had apparently been used to tow an aerial around the country and then offroad a bit. It had a full (unused) toolkit, a set of snow chains (LR original monsters), and 90,000 miles on the clock. I did another 80,000 problem free miles before changing the engine for a 200TDi. I'd seen some real dogs before this one that were more expensive, but this one was clean and worth waiting for. There are good ones out there if you do your homework.

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Thanks for your reply. This forum is really helpful. I am not very mechanically minded and I am doing as much research as possible, bordering on obsessive! I will mainly be using this for a family car and to get to work and back which is only a 12 mile round trip so I will not be putting high miles on the defender I buy. Sometimes when there is so much information out there these days I find myself only reading and digesting the things I want to know. There is definitely more positive feedback for defenders of all ages and engine variations. However there are always people who put the frighteners on me and tell me to avoid Landrovers like the plague. And of course there is the 200TDI, 300TDI, TD5, which is best debate. I will keep reading and thanks again to everyone on this forum who is helping with my research.

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A good TD5 is better than an average Tdi, and a good Tdi better than an average TD5! Other than choosing a specific wheel base and body type, you're better off not worrying about engine and gear box combinations - buy on condition of the vehicle. A TD5 is probably the most pokey Defender without mods, but few people buy a Defender for street racing and the difference in performance, economy and driving comfort is not big enough to be a big consideration. If you were a DIY mechanic, then the Tdis could be better for you as they are simpler engines, but since you are not, then it makes little difference.

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"However there are always people who put the frighteners on me and tell me to avoid Landrovers like the plague."

The problem is that a lot of people think Land Rover = Tough and that you can forget about looking after them. However that 'toughness' is simply a byproduct of maintenance and care. Abuse it, drive it foolishly and it WILL let you down.

Anyone whose experience of driving a 'typical' Land Rover is being in one with clapped out bushes, sloppy steering joints and generally 'worn out' stuff is certainly going to say 'never drive one they're terrible'. However pick any of the well-used but well looked after ones owned by people here and you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Just bear in mind that they can look 'clean' but be abused, and look really tatty but be gems that have been well-cared for. I was working on a Scottish island for an environmental agency and they sold off a 10 year old TDi that looked ghastly, every panel bashed, roof bashed, inside layered with deer blood and hair, straw, dirt and grime, but it had been serviced regularly and such is the size of the island (fairly small) and desperate state of its non-existent roads (no roads!) it had only done 30,000 miles in those ten years. It looked rough, but was solid underneath and the eventual owner was getting a bargain.

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The problem is that a lot of people think Land Rover = Tough and that you can forget about looking after them. However that 'toughness' is simply a byproduct of maintenance and care. Abuse it, drive it foolishly and it WILL let you down.

I've heard this so many times "it's built like a tank" - well, not once you've ploughed it through awful terrain as fast as you can...

An army mechanic once told me owning a Land Rover is like having a girlfriend - treat them gently and give them a good servicing once in a while.

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Just a thought about the mileage - see if you can get them to include a clutch and clutch fork replacement in the deal; if they have their own workshops, it'll be much cheaper for them to do it at cost than for you to pay a garage, and at that mileage, I suspect the clutch plates will be coming up for renewal and the clutch fork, if the same as on Tdi models, will be near the end of its life.

Clutch arm is cast on a Td5, and not prone to failure like the Tdi - one less problem to be concerned about.

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Ex-BT 110's may be a good bet, they have a similar life to the Vodafone one mentioned above.

SHB are a glorified car-hire agent, so it's like buying an ex-rental car... how much do you want one of those, even if it has been well-serviced? It may have had a gentle life ferrying beautiful people round Glastonbury festival in the sunshine or it may have been thrashed round a building site every day of its life by ham-fisted gorillas who never had to pay a repair bill.

From experience of SHB's retail arm (Brooklyn) - which may or may not be representative - they charge absolute top whack for stuff that rarely justifies it. SHB are a separate entity though, so it's potentially a completely different approach.

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Clutch arm is cast on a Td5, and not prone to failure like the Tdi - one less problem to be concerned about.

I think I read a post recently saying that the TD5 fork is identical to the SIII. If true, then it's bullet proof - the SIII fork is a perfect example of engineering a product for life-time service, not cost engineering.

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Was meant to be going to view the vehicles today however it is now tomorrow afternoon I am going. I assume that SHB will have records of what and when any services or other work has been carried out on the vehicles. If they do will they provide me with a record of it if I ask ?

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