moose Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 going to change the belt this month what else if any thing do people sugest should i replace while iam there? thanks for any input oppps forgot to add its a 200tdi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickm Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 going to change the belt this monthwhat else if any thing do people sugest should i replace while iam there? thanks for any input av u read this in the technical bit http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6943 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 tensioner & idler pullies, dust seal in the front housing where the crank goes through - apart from that its just gaskets, anti-freeze that need to be done to get in there really. enjoy the crankbolt lots of people swear at it for a while before it comes undone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted October 3, 2006 Author Share Posted October 3, 2006 tensioner & idler pullies, dust seal in the front housing where the crank goes through - apart from that its just gaskets, anti-freeze that need to be done to get in there really.enjoy the crankbolt lots of people swear at it for a while before it comes undone. thanks for the input , so here is my shoping list ... 1 Timing Belt 1 Tensioner 1 Idler 1 Front Cover Gasket 1 Water Pump Gasket 1 Front cover crank seal hope that will that cover it. yep going to be loving that crankbolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 i cant think of anything else offhand - been a while since i did mine. have you got the locking tools? if not have fun trying to set it all back up. the pump can be locked with a drill (8mm i think) but the cranklocking tool is handy. i keep meaning to make one by drilling a hole right in the center of an old wading plug so a 4mm? drill bit is a tight fit & can be slid in to lock the crank. i dont know if you ever take it off road but ive found on mine the front cover is twisted & has to be siliconed on to stay watertight. thats about all i can remember, but then i have a 2nd car to go & collect bits when ive forgotten something fixing the sensible car. the disco (with a couple of mods) is more sensible than a '78 Midget isnt it? im not sure sometimes, i know the MG is cheaper to run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted October 3, 2006 Author Share Posted October 3, 2006 i cant think of anything else offhand - been a while since i did mine.have you got the locking tools? if not have fun trying to set it all back up. the pump can be locked with a drill (8mm i think) but the cranklocking tool is handy. i keep meaning to make one by drilling a hole right in the center of an old wading plug so a 4mm? drill bit is a tight fit & can be slid in to lock the crank. i dont know if you ever take it off road but ive found on mine the front cover is twisted & has to be siliconed on to stay watertight. thats about all i can remember, but then i have a 2nd car to go & collect bits when ive forgotten something fixing the sensible car. the disco (with a couple of mods) is more sensible than a '78 Midget isnt it? im not sure sometimes, i know the MG is cheaper to run. Nope not got any locking tools was going to use a drill bit on the pump and then line the dots up.... at least your MG's running (its a 1975 MGBGT v8) almost finshed now then off to the mot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 hmmmm v8, wonder if they fit in a midget? that'd be a toy... taking the mg to work soon, wont have many more sunny days to ponce about with the lid down this year afetr all. the problem with not having a locking tool for the crank is as you tension the belt the crank moves. takes me ages to get it right. 'locking' the engine but putting in gear leaves too much play to be accurate. the locking tool for the crank is a pin that locates in a slot in the flywheel up the wading plug hole. however the hole is a lot bigger than the slot so you need something to hold it central. in your place id get a wading plug & drill a hole up the center so you can use a drill bit for this too. its worth it to save hassle. then you also have a locking pin for the injection pump & the marks to line up on the crank. oh almost forgot a deflection type tourque gauge is required to tension the belt correctly, i think its 17-19 lb/ft for a new belt but im not sure. i have it marked on my wrench but thats in the loft atm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 drill bit size is 3/8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpy2 Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 all above is correct and accurate but unless you get the crankshaft nut undone you won't get anywhere. I broke my 1/2 inch socket doint this job first time round so bought another impact type and then i broke the breaker bar. after that I bought a 3/4 impact socket and fabricated a 3/4 drive on the end of 5 feet of scaffolding pole. the only problem I had then was locking the crank shaft while I undid the nut. I tried the bung it in gear approach, no good at all just nearly ran myself over! then I made up a locking bar from angle iron - it bent! finally welded 1inch tube to the locking bar bolted it to the front pulley and it works. done three this way and I recon it took me longer to get the crankshaft nut undone the first time than all the rest of the work combined! Is there some connection between Land Rover and MG?, I have a V8 Roadster and a standard GT LE. gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 i used to use the jam breaker bar on chassis and flick the starter to undo the pulley bolt, has always worked in the past for me, now use a rattle gun to undo them, hasn't failed yet and probably a bit safer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpy2 Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 never fancied the potential chaos of cranking the engine! I think my air gun is grim - it won't touch the crankshaft bolt, sometimes struggles with wheel bolts! gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 cranking the engine is fine put the bar against the drivers(offside) and flick the starter, with the FIP stop solenoid disconnected Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 yep flicking the starter always works for me - well except the first time. didnt work the 1st time as i'd flattened the battery using my worklight scaffold bar over a breaker bar so i could stand on the slam panel just got it undone. i think i had the truck in high/5th & various items (bench vice for one) under every wheel to hold it still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 On the flywheel there is 2 slots one is a wide slot & other is a narrow slot [use this one], the difference is very obvious, a 9.5mm drill shank will lock the pump in place I always use that on my pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted October 3, 2006 Author Share Posted October 3, 2006 I was going to try with my air gun first.... if that didnt work i quite liked the starter method cranking the engine is fine put the bar against the drivers(offside) and flick the starter, with the FIP stop solenoid disconnected but whats FIP stop solenoid ? pls excuse my ignorance still new to diesel engines... my guess was the glow plug solenoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 I was going to try with my air gun first.... if that didnt work i quite liked the starter methodbut whats FIP stop solenoid ? pls excuse my ignorance still new to diesel engines... my guess was the glow plug solenoid I'm guessing it cuts the fuel off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 it is the fuel stop solenoid, single wire onto the diesel pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Fuel Injection Pump stop solenoid. Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted October 4, 2006 Author Share Posted October 4, 2006 Fuel Injection Pump stop solenoid.Ivan Thanks i see that now .... i would be rubbish at a game of hang man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 Yes, the starter motor method will either undo the nut or break the crank, but that is only half the problem. If you cannot lock the crank you cannot do the nut up to the correct (high) torque, IIRC it is 265Nm for a 200tdi and 80Nm + 90 deg for a 300tdi. 200tdi's have a history of crank bolts coming loose and destroying the end of the crank. We often get 300tdi's in the workshop where the bolts are not tight at all. Either the workshop does not have the tool or are too lazy to fit it. So even if you go to a workshop you should ask to see the tool before getting them to do the job. It's your crankshaft that is at stake here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted October 23, 2006 Author Share Posted October 23, 2006 Yes, the starter motor method will either undo the nut or break the crank, but that is only half the problem. If you cannot lock the crank you cannot do the nut up to the correct (high) torque, IIRC it is 265Nm for a 200tdi and 80Nm + 90 deg for a 300tdi. 200tdi's have a history of crank bolts coming loose and destroying the end of the crank. We often get 300tdi's in the workshop where the bolts are not tight at all. Either the workshop does not have the tool or are too lazy to fit it. So even if you go to a workshop you should ask to see the tool before getting them to do the job. It's your crankshaft that is at stake here. yer your right i havent got it torgued up any where near as high as it was... but plently of thread lock , and got to drop a new gear box in next month, so i will be able to get some thing on the fly wheel to lock it off nice and solid . out of interest how does the proper tool work, as i did have access to these Difflock tools but was not going to torgue it up against the flywheel locking pin as i didnt want to snap it (as the tools were not mine). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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