Bobbed and caged RRC called The "JWH"

[Soren Frimodt]

Bowie won the day! Though not by much, the weight was 950kgs, I knew the 850 was a bit optimistic but had it not had the remaining bulkhead and the rear Sal's it probably wouldn't have been far off.

Gokart: 

What happened here?  

88" Gokart:

Funny thing is that when you shorten a RRC to 88" and have a rear Sal's, a stock 88" front prop fits perfectly  

Obviously the angle is way to extreme! But the suspension is a 2" lift with a 1" lift block underneath. After removing said blocks, the prop just barely turns, so a set of caster corrected arms should do the rest.

Oh and the obligatory walk-around video:

 

[dangerous doug]

I can’t get over the the speed you work at! Top job sir, Looks good.

[landroversforever]

Castor corrected arms on the rear?

 

[Soren Frimodt]

24 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Castor corrected arms on the rear?

 

Reading what I wrote Again, it does seem quite silly yes  What I mean to say is mod the trailing arms to point the pinion a bit more upwards  Alternatively I might look at lowering the gearbox, or perhaps a combination of both

Edited November 6, 2017 by Soren Frimodt

[landroversforever]

Shortening them a bit would tip the pinion up.

[Bowie69]

38 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Shortening them a bit would tip the pinion up.

 

Now Ross, you just know Soren won't do that, he will end up with some backyard created version of X-arms, made with nothing but a pair of pliers and an old duvet...

 

 

 

[Soren Frimodt]

4 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

 

Now Ross, you just know Soren won't do that, he will end up with some backyard created version of X-arms, made with nothing but a pair of pliers and an old duvet...

 

 

 

Sounds like the HD version of what I had planned  

[landroversforever]

True Bowie!

[Soren Frimodt]

Actually Ross' idea what was I had initially planned, a simple solution. However, as I was about to start I realized it might not be the best solution as the angle at the chassis end is already bad on the trailing arms, so I would have to 'crank' them as well. This got me thinking that I might be able to kill two birds with one stone instead! One of the things I've always disliked about a coiler is all the rear-steer that goes on when it flexes, and by making the A-arm longer the arms would come closer to the same length, making less rear-steer. It would of course have the same effect if I had shortened the trailing arms. But another benefit is a slightly better angle on the A-arm ball joint. Also lengthening the A-arm won't shorten my wheelbase further. So here's what I did:

Now I know I will have weakened the arms a little, but in theory it shouldn't be the bolt holes that hold anything but the clampingforce of the bolts, which are still intact. Besides the forged arms are not exactly known for breaking. But I guess time will tell

[landroversforever]

I like that Sören! As you say the clamping force should be taking all the load which is still there. Also good that it doesn't loose you any wheelbase. 

[Soren Frimodt]

That would be my theory as well. But I guess if the bolts should come loose it would be weaker, but I have never had these bolts Work Loose  

I need to decide whether to put the radiator in the back or keep it at the front.. I'm a sucker for the KISS lifestyle as you know, so that would say keep it at the front, however with regards to COG and approach angle I would be better to have it in the back. What do you Guys think? Is an Electric pump for circulation a worthwile Investment/hassle or will it be alright with just the stock mechanical pump? I see loads of Triallers have them in the back, so I guess there isn't many concerns with it?

[Soren Frimodt]

Over the last couple of days I have been stripping the chassis of parts that wasn't needed, and I also removed the rest of the bulkhead. Today the very first bits of steel was welded to the chassis! However many many many more bits are still to come  

These will be the front-most uprights for the seats, I had great success with this procedure on the Single-Seater, start by putting myself and my controls in place first, and then build a cage around that. A good way to get it tight and compact without doing any drawings or CAD  24 Meters of 48mm tubing and a single 6 Meter length of 40x40 squaretubing should arrive on my doorstep tomorrow. Should be enough to get me started  

[miketomcat]

Putting the rad in the back adds water and tubing thus adding weight. Nuff said me thinks.

Mike

[Soren Frimodt]

Quite right Mike, but the extra fluid and tubing will aid cooling so not a complete loss. But it will be several kg's in fluid alone, Ali tubing wouldn't add much. I think the biggest drawback is the pesky Electric fans that'll be a neccesity with a rear rad. sure they are up for the job but as its going to have Bow3'ed 8274 on as well I fear problems with way too much Draw and an alternator not able to keep up, resulting in weak spark, stalling engine, not enough power to restart.. you know the feeling  

[Soren Frimodt]

Yesterdays update; got the seatmounting frame done, for now at least, my seats should arrive next Friday. And the first bit of tubing was manupulated:

Going to make it as narrow as I possibly can with two seats, for weight and nimbleness  Also the seating will be much more upright, much like a Defender/Series giving me better visibillity than the more laidback style I had on the Single-Seater. Which in that case was necessary to keep it low because of the portals

[Bowie69]

Leaving the rear overhang like that?

[Soren Frimodt]

Yes! It looks worse than it is, its about 2" longer than at the front. And thats just why, I don't like cars/buggies with more front overhang than rear, looks odd me thinks  

[landroversforever]

So is this replacing the portal axled buggy Soren? 

[Soren Frimodt]

Yeah I must admit I've sold it on. Not because I was annoyed with it in anyway. On the contrary actually, I finally felt like it was 'done' and I was ready for something new. So I put it up for sale, thinking that either I could get it sold and spent some more or this next project, or if not I would just budget it a bit more and have both   Luckily I got it sold, which means I can press on with this one  

[landroversforever]

Ah fair enough! The word 'had' in your post above have it away

 

[Soren Frimodt]

Hehe yeah I realized that when I wrote it, but thought I might as well let it slip out there  

[Soren Frimodt]

Quite a lot was done this afternoon, got the final rear-stay in, fitted some 'Sill-tubes' as I need to fit the front hoop further forward than the outriggers are located. I then tied the seat-box framing into the sills and finally I fitted the X in the main hoop:

[Soren Frimodt]

Moving along nicely, now its beginning to look like something:

Haven't had many hours on it this week though, today we went and picked up an '87 90" V8:

With the rise in prices on our beloved old Solihull tractors, my Brother and his Wife decided to find one now for there kid (She's not only 2 years old yet, but just imagine what it'll cost when she turns 18!) And though it might look like something almost impossible to resurrect, its actually in a pretty decent nick considering. Bulkhead is shot but the chassis is surprisingly good! 

[deep]

An early V8 90 is something very special and destined to be quite a classic, I reckon.  Well worth the shed space.  My 110 is an '87 too.   A good vintage.

That Range Rover looks all wrong with the steering wheel on the incorrect side .... but otherwise very inspiring, as all your projects are!

[Soren Frimodt]

Yes they are great indeed, my very first Landie was a V8 90" such a smooth and quiet running machine its lovely! All the Diesel Guys don't know what they are missing  

In 5 years time the 90" will be stated as vintage in Denmark, meaning 8 years between MOT's instead of 2, and roadtaxes will be cut by 75% ! So this thing will go from roughtly 400£ to 100£ So this will probably make the value in Denmark rise even more. So now is probably a good time to invest