HighlandRover Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Im currently in the process of mounting my radiator and transmission in the rear of my 3.9 v8 truck. As I have to extend the hoses to the rear of the vehicle I can no longer use the original hoses and fittings. Ive been down to the local hydraulic fittings and hose place and they cannot help me. Im looking for info on where I can get the fittings for 1. Input and output to oil filter housing 2. Input and output to ZF4 HP22 auto gearbox 3. Fittings for transmission cooler (I think its 1" BSP fittings) Also im using a Mitsubishi Delicia 2.8 aluminium radiator and it does not have an input for the cold water return from the plenum to radiator. Am I able to just plumb this into the main hot water return to radiator? Any help would be great Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 On the more modern zf4hp22 the oil ports areM18 x 1.5 thread, on the early 22"s these threads are M16 X 1.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 When doing similar rear rad on my 3.9 v8 I got all my fittings from http://www.thinkauto.com/ I replaced the existing adaptors in the with a Metric to JIC adaptor http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_JIC_to_Metric__157.html for the ZF4 HP22 and then used angle JIC push fit hoses to run the oil lines. From memory they were M16, but I seem to remember that some ZF4 HP22 can be M18 but you have yours so you can measure it.I used a Laminova for transmission oil cooling, so can not help with these but give think auto a call and they can probably helpFor the oil cooler I just cut and extended the original hoses. I used a standard landrover radiator so just plumbed up the plenum as normal.The other thing I did was remove the thermostat, for 2 reasons1) I have not heater matrix so there is no normal water return path if thermostat was closed 2) Less restriction to aid the water pump to pump to the rear, some people say you need an additional electric water pump to help, but not stat works great (it's not like the v8 is slow to warm up :-) ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 HFH does lovely thermostat removal plates, as to give slight back pressure to the pump (or so i think) When i did my rear rad, i used 1/2bsp push connectors onto a mocal oil cooler. At the gearbox end i cut the hard lines, and jubilee clipped the flexible oil hose over the top. worked a treat and costs next to nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 I recognise that "Support hexagons when tightening fittings" sticker. I have stuck many on It does look like 1" bsp, which is an odd choice, as we have 1/2" on the shelf, which is what I use. I got hydraulic hose-tails that are 3/8" hose to 1/2" female and cut the crimp part off. I need to fit two clips per hose to mine, as apparently weird flows occur with pressure. I have threatened to tap the inside of a large fitting on these coolers down to 1/4" bsp if it's any help? Or locktight tubes in the hole? Remove the thermostat !? I haven't tried it, so it could be excellent, but I've had a rear rad now since 1995 and the only mod is long pipes. I believe the extra surface area of the steel pipes compensates for the lower water flow. However, in some situations the thermostat acts as a pump restrictor to stop cavitation, so it can have a downside on a front rad. Maybe rear rad is all the restriction that is needed? I run a front header tank that links the block bleed to the highest top hose point. Then another tank at the back for expansion. The aim of the game is to get any air or head gasket gas out of the system while you race. It's always going to be a regular thing to check the levels on, as you have 2 high points, both running the same pressure. Sight tube levels are your friend here Plenty of horror stories out there, but you tend to find that it was another fault that stopped it all working, like head gasket, or fans that weren't shrouded and sealed to the rad and stuff like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C18RCH Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Try your local agricultural parts place. They will usually make up hydraulic pipes for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighlandRover Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Thanks for everyones replies. I've got in touch with www.thinkauto.com (cheers for that Zardos) who are sending me some JIC fittings which should do the job. My only issue now is the cold return from the plenum to radiator as described above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomark10 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Unless you need to be able to run in very cold temps, ditch the bit under the plenum with the 2 small pipes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iomlt Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 agree with the above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighlandRover Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Which would then leave me an open end from the inlet manifold, just tie this into the main hot water return to radiator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 blank it off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 thinkauto are good :-) they even machine adapted some fittings on the spot (they are also fairly local to me) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teslo Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 What pipes and what inner diameter you used for rear water radiator? We are going to move radiator for 300tdi to the rear. The plan is to use V8 radiator with twin electric fans. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 I ran ordinary steel exhaust pipe. It's either 38 or 50mm? And I am fairly sure 38mm. Something the size of the original hoses or a bit bigger is ideal. Get some air flow around them to aid cooling as it's free surface area Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 On a V8 it's 38mm internal diameter I think the 300tdi engine is the same. I used rubber hose for and silicon bends for my rear rad V8 as it was much easier as the rubber hose could do shallow bends around items (finding a protected straight route was impossible) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teslo Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 thank you guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 I used hose from http://www.hoseworld.com/acatalog/HIGH_TEMP_HEAVY_DUTY_RUBBER_WATER_DELIVERY_HOSE-2.html Hoseworld recommended this hose for my usage (even though it looks slightly under spec for the temperature but that temp is max temp @ max pressure of 15bar and you engine won't be working any where near 225psi) I also found Size 20 cable cleats ideal for mounting http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-HEAVY-DUTY-CABLE-CLEATS-SIZE-NUMBER-NO-20-FOR-LARGE-CABLES-/151146072385?pt=UK_BOI_Materials_Supplies_Electrical_ET&var=&hash=item2331020941 orhttp://www.fastlec.co.uk/cable-cleat-size-20-for-swa-armoured-cables-p-15447.html#.UxxMXIXvZ5Y Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayresy Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 Mine are 42mm from memory, mostly steel with rubber joins, not had it runing full noise yet but doesnt get hot road running& thermo fan kicks in though but guess theres no airflow through the rad, so itd going to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 I used to run with no plenum heater & the stub from the manifold blanked off, however I have now plumbed the stub into the radiator top bleed pipe to the header tank as I believe it serves a function in allowing any air bubbles to bleed off to the header tank and prevent airlocks, as that stub is about the highest point in the block's coolant system and subject to some back-pressure due to the restriction of the stat, so almost as if it's designed for the job of forcing out air Sometimes the longer you look at stuff the more you realise "those idiots at the factory" may have had an idea what they were doing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 Sometimes the longer you look at stuff the more you realise "those idiots at the factory" may have had an idea what they were doing Indeed! I to disconnected the actual plenum, but left the hose from inlet to radiator, no particular reason, just seemed sensible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Did disconnecting the plenum heating lead to any noticeable power gain? Theoretically it should as cooler air is better but how much can such a little surface heat the thousands of litres of air the engine needs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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