pgrbff Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Having changed the engine oil and filter on my 95 300 Tdi the oil pressure warning light now takes a little longer to go out when I start her up. About a second, but I'm sure that wasn't the case before. Also, having checked the breaks and bled through all the pipes until the fluid came through clear, the brake warning light now comes on and off intermittently. Sometimes staying on on for a while before going out again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 It doesn't sounds all that bad. You may find there is some air in the oil system still so it takes an extra second or too to charge up, that might solve itself in time as it will self bleed. With regard to the break fluid light, all it is is a small float switch in the resovoir, I'd have a look at it, give it a wee tap to make sure its not sticking, and make sure the wire connectors to the top of the cap are ok as these can perish due to the brake fluid getting on them. I picked up a replacment cap on fleebay not all that long ago. Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrbff Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Thanks. With regard to the float, what can I clean the cap with, including the inside? I have never really been sure what DOT 4 will dissolve in. The wires and connectors are OK. I have stopped the car with the light on and moving the wires doesn't change anything. I assume it is the float. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat2495 Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Out of interest which brand of oil filter did you use? It may be completely unrelated but I remember reading about lower quality oil filters delaying the build up to full working pressure, think it was on MG's though. Have you double checked that none of the bleed nipples are loosing a bit of fluid? I found the brake warning light to be quite sensitive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Have you checked the connection at the handbrake. That is connected to the brake warning light. Do not try to re-adjust it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrbff Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Out of interest which brand of oil filter did you use? It may be completely unrelated but I remember reading about lower quality oil filters delaying the build up to full working pressure, think it was on MG's though. Have you double checked that none of the bleed nipples are loosing a bit of fluid? I found the brake warning light to be quite sensitive Blue box, as I intended changing the oil and filter every 4-5K. Maybe I should have bought original? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrbff Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Have you checked the connection at the handbrake. That is connected to the brake warning light. Do not try to re-adjust it though. I made sure it wasn't the handbrake although I am confused by the warning light on the far left which I think says "park break"? What is that for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 I made sure it wasn't the handbrake although I am confused by the warning light on the far left which I think says "park break"? What is that for? HANDBRAKE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 I had the brake light problem, it was some black gunk causing the float to stick. A quick blast with some air sorted if I remember correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Blue box oil filters.............along with a few others, either do not have at all, or do not have an effective anti drain valve. WHEN will you people ever learn ? The oil filter is one of the most IMPORTANT items on your engine. For the sake of an extra few Pounds/Euros or whatever every now and then, why even THINK about risking major and expensive damage to your engine, or wearing it out prematurely ? That goes for diesel filters too.................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 I use Mahle oil filters after watching this video: http://youtu.be/M8Ezg0bkFiU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrbff Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 Blue box oil filters.............along with a few others, either do not have at all, or do not have an effective anti drain valve. WHEN will you people ever learn ? The oil filter is one of the most IMPORTANT items on your engine. For the sake of an extra few Pounds/Euros or whatever every now and then, why even THINK about risking major and expensive damage to your engine, or wearing it out prematurely ? That goes for diesel filters too.................. I have only had this Landrover a couple of weeks and I can't /wont pop into my local Landrover dealer because it's a 3 hour round trip and he wants to charge €960 for a timing belt change on a 300, (3 hours labour I believe by the book). This means I have to order from UK, each order minimum £10 postage and quite difficult to buy original parts since there seems to be a huge variety of OEM variations by different manufacturers about whom I know very little. If I end up ordering from 3 different places that's £40 on postage. As blue box seems so prolific to an outsider who has little experience of Landrover,(other than his new 1997 Discovery not even getting him home from the dealer on the day he bought it, and 3 gearboxes in 6 months,(I believe they were OEM gearboxes)), and bluebox is often shown as OEM in parts listing online, I bought a filter kit. You live and learn, often by mistakes, next time I will probably be better organised and buy OEM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrbff Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 I use Mahle oil filters after watching this video: http://youtu.be/M8Ezg0bkFiU Looks good. There are so many options when buying parts for the Defender it's mind boggling. Unfortunately nobody is born knowing it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Once you have an OEM filter kit , say Mahle or Fram you will have the part no's , so surely you must be able to source from a local motor or agricultural factor? the same filter is often used across a wide range of applications. .....actually it may be a good idea to generate a list of x-ref numbers for filters and belts here in the Tech archive? Who do you use for mail order? Britcar is often recommended on here for supplying what you ask for cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrbff Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 The kit was ordered with my first order, about two hours after I bought the vehicl on an Ipad fro a service station, from Paddock.I have since been using LRDirect as they seem to keep more original parts although I have to look up the part number first and this has resulted in a few parts that were ordered incorrectly. I had a local guy change the timing belt last week, I gave him all the parts. He decided to change the fan belt too, a Continental fan belt was €50, that's £40. I think spares are going to be too expensive locally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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