Jump to content

Defender V8 Oil Change - Priming


Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I ended up buying the V8 defender! It's pretty good, already started taking photos ready to put together a thread on its restoration.

Just about to drop and change all the fluids but need to ask a question about the V8 oil pump, does it need priming after an oil change? All I was thinking of doing was eating the coil so it doesn't fire and cranking the engine so it circulates the oil. Will this be ok, or do I need to prime it properly?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure the Engine has any wadeing plugs, Flywheel housing should have one which would be obvious right at the 6 o clock position... (but could be lightly different it being coupled to a V8 - the diesel R380 flywheel/bellhousings have one definitely.

Have a read through the Tech archive all sorts of great info, you can also get manuals from there too.

Having a scan of this thread doesn;t mention any wading plugs...

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=1014

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Mav ;-) Should have just emailed you! Good tip about the forum search.

Will have a crawl under it in the daylight and take a look at the bell housing.

The history says it has had wading plugs fitted but don't think they have ever been removed...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As much as people don't like Haynes I actually still use my Haynes for Discovery/Defender from time to time for reference, I don't think either cover the Rover V8... but I think the Range Rover Classic Haynes manual does cover the V8, might be worth getting hold of one as that would give you a heap of quite useful info to start on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As above, do filer and oil oneat a time, drain old oil the fill up with new and remove old filter and fit new one filled with oil.

I used to do the oil in my v8 every 2000 miles as it got a good hammering, if its the old distributor driven oil pump you should be using 20/50w oil although i ran mine for many thousand miles on 10/40w, oil pressure increased by about 10psi when filled 20/50w as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The older the Haynes, the more it covers, I've got a very old RR one that's about 3x thicker than the modern ones.

I've never had a V8 oil pump un-prime itself when doing an oil change (drain sump & take filter off), only time one went was when I accidentally put very thin oil in. Cranking it with the coil unplugged to bring the pressure back up should be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never had an issue with oil pump priming on a V8.

Oil wise, stick to 20W50 or 10W40 if a later engine, V8s go for volume rather than pressure and thick and treacly is good!. Don't use semi or synthetic, too thin and it will sound like a bag of nails.

Change oil regularly, buying 20l drums is cheapest but older motor factors sell cheap 20W50, don't be fooled by Castrol or Halfrauds Classic in retro tins, paying through the nose for the same stuff.

Old Haynes manuals were great, now they're not worth the toilet paper they are printed on. Anything difficult is says take to a dealer. The LR V8 overhaul manual can be found on lots of sites and www.V8forum.net has some great advice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy