gadget Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 This 110 is starting to test my patience I've got fresh engine oil dripping from the long sump bolt on the drivers side and from the drain hole on the bell housing. Rocker gasket is sound. It was leaking but changed that yesterday. Round seal below it at the rear of the head is also sound and the back of the engine is now completely dry Some oil will have dripped down the rear of the block from the rocker gasket and will have inevitably made it's way down to the drain but there shouldn't be much. Whilst the engine is idling i'm seeing 1 drip per minute from the drain. Could the rear crank be leaking again? Whizzing me off no end at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squaddiefox Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 If it is coming out of the bell housing itself I would say it it is the rear oil seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted June 29, 2014 Author Share Posted June 29, 2014 I suspected as much If i replace the seal again i'm not sure i'd do anything different and will end up with the same problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 What engine/gearbox set-up are we talking about here? definitely engine oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 TD5 and R380. I've just replaced the gearboxes, clutch, flywheel and rear seal. Didn't scrimp - used valeo clutch + DMF and genuine seal & crank bolts. Definitely nice new engine oil coming from the drain. After sorting out the turbo drain and the rocker gasket i thought i'd achieved a leak free TD5. Ha. Irritating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Just a tbought- but are the breathers all ok, a bit of pressure inside can cause leaks like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 Thanks for the suggestion. The crankcase breather, cover, pipework and PCV was cleaned when i had everything apart for the gasket. Pretty sure it isn't a breather issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Yeah well, it was straw grasping I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 I think it will either be the rear seal or perhaps the sump gasket, but either way i can't think of anything i did incorrectly when fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squaddiefox Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Might just be a case of some carp being in there behind the seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 Perhaps, and i hope it's something like that. I cleaned the rear of the engine before i pulled the old seal and cleaned the crank seal face before fitting the new seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggervan Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Hi sometimes the old seal can ware a slight grove on the crank so new seal does not seat properly and it mite bed it's self in but what I've dune in the past is to just tap the seal slightly out of its housing to give it a fresh place to sit Not dune this on a td5 but dune it tractors and it's worked 9/10 of the time Not saying it is this hopefully it's just a bit of carp stuck in between seal and crank as suggested above Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 I checked the seal seat on the crank and there was a little black mark where the old seal sat but no discernible surface aberration. The TD5 seal comes in a housing that is bolted to the rear of the block. There's no chance that i can see of adjusting the seating position anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 I've ordered all the bits to change the rear crank seal again. Hopefully i'll get the engine pulled this weekend. I'd appreciate any hints, tips or gotchas please because i'd rather not have to do it all a third time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 I've just taken the sump off to see what i can in the bell housing/crank area. Rear of the flywheel is dry and from what i can see the gearbox side of the crank is dry too. Ran my finger across under the seal and that seems dry. If it is the crank seal and not the sump gasket that's leaking, how wet would the gearbox end of the crank appear? Would it be obvious that the seal was leaking or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 I refitted the sump and have driven it around the farm today for an hour or so. Apart from getting recovered from a marsh area by the JCB nothing fell off and nothing went bang I still have oil on the bell housing but i'm wondering if the sump gasket may well be the cause? If the crank seal was the cause of my leak i'd have expected the oil to come from the centre part of the bell housing, but one entire edge of the bell housing is wet. Between the two arrows is wet with oil. Rear of head above the bell housing is perfectly dry. Crank seal or sump gasket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 I have just got defender 90 with a 300 tdi engine same 380 box and have the same leak not had landrover for years and they where old series models. So worried when I saw leak and hole realise now its a drain for the bell housing. I have loads of leaks underneath didn't see any when I bought it. Typical anyway just thought you might be comforted to know someone has a worse condition than you :'( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Did you join mate the bell housing up with sealant ? Read somewhere this can cause problems think it was on Ashcrofts site ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 No sealant. Just the metal plate between the gearbox and block/sump. From what i can see there's very little oil coming from the drain hole since the sump refit. Almost all of the oil appears to be coming from the edge of the sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Re-check the rocker gasket at the back.... It may still have a leak.. They are crafty little beggars... Are you sure it's not residual oil still working it's way down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 The rocker and rear cam gaskets are still dry. Wiped the rear of the head with a tissue and there's no oil at all there. It could be residual oil i guess, just seems unlikely. After the sump refit i ran the engine for 30 minutes and during the run the sump was dry, nothing from drain hole or wading plug. Checked the next morning and the sump was wet in the same places as the pictures show.. Cleaned everything up and drove around for an hour or so and the pictures show the sump when i got back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Are the other levels ok? Clutch fluid from the slave? On my D2, the clutch pipe had chafed on the back of the engine and leaked fluid that appears like yours. Is the FPR leaking? Diesel could track down and make the back of the engine appear wet like in your pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 Clutch is leak free. Defender has a different routing to the Discovery - no pipe across the rear of the engine. Your mention of the clutch pipe in my other thread lead me to find the chaffed pipe on my Discovery. FPR doesn't seem to be leaking in any obvious way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadget Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 I'm out of time. Going to dump the 110 in a field until i have another bunch of time to take another look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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