oneandtwo Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 Do 90 truck cabs still come with galv cappings as standard? Seems daft they switched to mild steel for hardtops but continued fitting galv ones to truck cabs well into the 2000's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Share Posted July 27, 2014 The holes on mine didn't line up either. I enlarged the ones in the capping then used rivet washersThanks mine weren't even that close. The holes I drilled were new rather than an elongation of the originals! Never mind. They are fitted now.Next question though..... The seals that got sent with these new cappings were Britpart. Needless to say they are too small! They are already smaller in height than the ones that came off that have been compressed for the last 25 years. The result is gaps in places along the capping. Now, there are a variety of seals depending on vin number 33487 to EA345885 MXC2031 from FA345886 to HA479385 ALR1158 from HA479386 to KA925389 ALR5055 from KA925390 Are many of these better than others? I'm fitting later cappings to an early vehicle, but the seals I took off look like they would do the job better than what I have from britpart. Vin is fa38xxxx so a set of genuine mxc2031 is looking favourite unless anyone else recommends otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 I'm going to be doing mine shortly - so thank you everyone it's all really helpful to me too. My replacement cappings are genuine parts that have been galvanised - they are late seamless ones, though I'm not sure what that means - but it will be interesting to see how they line up. Can I ask what rivets you've used ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Share Posted July 27, 2014 These were the rivets: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231191639171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Much more than needed, but good to have some spares. I'll be curious to know how yours line up too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 Thank you - just bought some I'm fitting side windows so taking the opportunity to do the cappings at the same time I need to get my panels painted yet - but I'll report back when they go in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 Was just about to list the part numbers for the ones I just got for mine....then realised my 90 ones would be even shorter. They were Britpart too, both lower foam/sponge type and upper rubber ones were a perfect fit! No gaps that I can see, there was at least 15mm beyond the panel prior to tightening and compressing the foam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Share Posted July 27, 2014 Thanks Scott. It wasn't length, I had to cut an inch off of the length, it was the height of it that I reckon is out. Looking at the old seals, they already sit proud of/below the panel edge by at least 3mm, the britpart ones sit just below. By about the same, perhaps a little less, and that's before they have ever been compressed.... I'll post up some pics at some point to make it clearer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyLandy46 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Dry fitted my capping at the weekend and my holes seem to line up. Does everyone recommend using the aftermarket seals or put a bead of tiger seal in first? Mine is moving from a hard top 110 to a truck Cab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Yes Reb. I follow your meaning now, mine were a good 45-50mm pre-compression and protruded well beyond the lower panel edge when stuck on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 Thanks mine weren't even that close. The holes I drilled were new rather than an elongation of the originals! Never mind. They are fitted now.Next question though..... The seals that got sent with these new cappings were Britpart. Needless to say they are too small! They are already smaller in height than the ones that came off that have been compressed for the last 25 years. The result is gaps in places along the capping. Now, there are a variety of seals depending on vin number333487 to EA345885MXC2031 from FA345886 to HA479385ALR1158 from HA479386 to KA925389ALR5055 from KA925390Are many of these better than others? I'm fitting later cappings to an early vehicle, but the seals I took off look like they would do the job better than what I have from britpart. Vin is fa38xxxx so a set of genuine mxc2031 is looking favourite unless anyone else recommends otherwise. Apparently, MXC2031 is obsolete. Does anyone know what changes were made to the bodies that might mean earlier or later seals will/wont fit? I cant find any pictures of MXC2031 or ALR1158. ALR1158 states it is superceded by ALR5055. There is no superseded number for MXC2031 though. 333487 seems available and its what i have been sent in a britpart packet ALR5055 looks like this I guess the cut outs are to help it round the corner and behind the fittings? What would you do? (I'm also considering turning my old seals over but cant decide if that's foolish or not!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davie Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Dry fitted my capping at the weekend and my holes seem to line up. Does everyone recommend using the aftermarket seals or put a bead of tiger seal in first? Mine is moving from a hard top 110 to a truck Cab. Think from memory when i had my roof off, sides etc seperated to replace the cappings and seals we used two tubes of tiger seal. it got put everywhere we could get it and then some. but still dry now 3 years on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 I used genuine ALR5055. They had shrunk a bit, so used some Tiger seal to stick once stretched and to make sure the cut outs contoured where they needed to. I had a 1-2 mm gap in some places between the capping and seal, but just filled it with cavity wax. Here's how the seal sits.(This is the old one) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyLandy46 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Good to know guys, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 My top seals were for a 90 mxc3676/7, these differed from my original seals that sat recessed inside the top of the panel, the new ones have a lip that sits over the panel. I was going from the older style sides that have the horizontal internal brace and the extra strengthener at the door shut (b-pillar) to the newer style fully flush panels. The lower foam ones were part no's AML710070/60 (again for the 90), the cutouts go around the cap to body mount holes and the bigger cutout for the 90degree bend for the rear panel, the slot at the end tucks behind the bracket at the rear door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 Thanks chaps. Think I'll give alr5055 a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 After much tooing and froing with my decision making, I ordered a genuine set of 333487 from lrdirect. Britpart on the right, genuine on the left I think this extra 2-3mm will help take up the gap I'm experiencing. Why britpart can't manufacture this part to the correct size is beyond me! Their seal rubber/foam itself is actually quite good quality, it just isn't big enough!! Can anyone advise on the correct orientation to fit this seal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 Anyone any ideas on how to fit these seals? I wanted to crack on with it later.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 The lip on the seal fits under a lip on the underside of the upper side panels, if that makes sense? Both lips were on the 88" side panels and seals I used to convert mine to utility, neither are on the original panels or seals. I think if yours is post 87, it wont have the lip on the panels and those are the wrong seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 The top of your sides will have a channel into which the seal will be a snug fit. The lip on the seal will lap over the outer skin of your sides. My upper seals were real rubber with the lower being foam. I thought 110 ones would just have been different in length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 Thanks Pat and Scot. I had a fiddle with one side tonight. I had the lip touching the capping and pointing outwards in the end. As I tightened the upper body panels down the lip filled the gap between the upper panels and the capping. Only problem I had was that the short rear section under the little windows either side of the back door kept springing forwards as I tightened the top panel to the capping. In hindsight, a piece of angle riveted along that back edge would hold the seal in the right place. I might add that tomorrow. Have to say, this genuine seal fits a whole lot better than the BP one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Yes, lip holds the seal and stops it being squeezed out. Rough sketch may explain better. The later non lipped seal that goes with the non lipped panel is held in place with contact adhesive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 Oh bugger. I've put it the other way up, lip pointing outwards. I think I might fill the area between the panels with black sikaflex ebt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.