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Disc brake setup for an 88


ejparrott

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I was driving the hybrid over the weekend moving mother-in-law out of her old house...pleased to report she's stops beautifully, better than the 88 and 109 if I'm honest. The MC was replaced a few years ago, and he took the old in for comparison and they declared it to be off a lightweight! No G-Valves or PCRV's just pure simple plumbing, the callipers and discs are all single line items, rangy fronts and disco rears.

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Unfortunately i'm not able to help with the request but for anyone interested in converting their series to RRC axles i have a pair in wiltshire already converted just needing paint and new brake lines making that are yours if you can collect!

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Good news! My Insurance company just came back and said the conversion is no problem. Just need to get bits and pieces together and get it converted, might be before Christmas, might be just after. Still haven't decided on whether to change the lot yet or just do the front, the Hybrid I was driving the other week was really great to drive, no G-valves, no PCRV valves, just disco discs and callipers.

First problem, bolts are good and proper stuck in the 90 swivels so I can't get the callipers off at the moment!

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hi EJ, sorry for the late reply on this, as you know i run series 10 SLS drums at the rear and coiler disk (single line calipers) at the front.

i find that the back can lock up on me, but only at slower speeds when emergency stopping. where all the brakes are fine according to MOT specs, i feel the bias could be more toward the front. maybe swapping my series master for a defender or LR90 one would be a better option as this is a similar wheelbase and weight and designed with this exact braking setup.

on a plus note, the extra braking effort to the rear axle means that it stops incredibly well indeed once there is some weight in the back or there is a trailer on!

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I've been running a Heystee kit with vented discs on the front since January, rear is standard 10" drums. When I fitted the kit I put in a complete brake pedal assembly from a 200tdi Defender with type 50 servo and master - I don't know if it came out of a 90 or 110.

I do have a PDWA fitted because it was already plumbed in but no G-valve or pressure regulator.

I've been very impressed by the way it stops. I've now had chance to run it with all 3 roof options and it's easy to get all 4 wheels locked up but I'm yet to have the rears lock up noticeably before the fronts.

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I'll leave them for now....

At least doing it this time of year, the roads are wet and greasy. I'll fit the front up, gently take her down to the works estate which is only a few miles away, and give her a good try out and see what happens.

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I've started rebuilding the callipers ready this morning...I think I'll keep everything in this thread, doesn't seem much point starting a new one.

Much work with wire brush attachments (full PPE please....my jacket resembled a hedgehog by the time I'd finished!). I've left the old pistons and seals in for now, did as much as I could before removing remnants of pipe and the bleed nipples, removed 2 bolts at a time and did as much else before splitting the halves....all the galleries will get a good clean out but I don't see the point introducing even more carp first. I'll pop the old seals and pistons out next and give everything internal a good clean up and check they're ok. I've ordered some heat resistant paint for doing them up nice, still need to order new pistons and seals though. I figured I'd mask off the joint faces and the bores and give them a blast over, then build all up, a little masking again and give them a blast over again, probably just the outsides.

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The all important brackets arrived yesterday, along with the discs...

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Have ordered new pistons and seals this morning which will hopefully arrive by the end of the week. I decided in the end to stick with steel pistons. Given the mileage Kettle does, I figured it wasn't worth it at this stage. I'll perhaps look at getting stainless pistons in over time, perhaps when a good deal comes up, and then know that when the time comes for new discs and pads, I'll more than likely have to rebuild the callipers again. I'm ok with that though.

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Actually, if you don't use the vehicle much, stainless pistons would be a good idea. A lot of brake problems stem from pistons sitting in one place for a long time. A tiny bit of moisture in the brake fluid and you get a sticky piston or light rust pitting. In regular use, the pistons move in and out you don't get that problem.

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Will Donaldson t/a Wild Industries, he's on the Series Facebook group. The discs are 90 solid which I got. It's basically the old Zeus conversion, and is the same as Gremlin did to his 109, and several guys in Oz seems to have done the same too.

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Will is making his own new kit with the offer of just the bracket or the complete kit with all ready to fit. There are additional options too. He has a website nearly ready to go so far as I know.

The quality of his parts/workmanship is incredibly good.

I'll try and get him to join this thread.

H

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H is right.

I'm really pleased with it, never met the bloke, just got talking to him in the midst of another thread on the Series faceache group. Found him to be very helpful, weighed up the pro's and con's, and decided after talking to him to go for it.

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I'm machining the Series hubs to take the discs, because I'm a turner by trade. will can supply the hubs ready done, but as it's my job, and I have the kit at home anyway, I don't like paying someone else!

Heystee are doing something too...I think they're moving to UK production..saw something about it he other day but can't find it again now. Have to say though, I'm a little put off by the discussion we had recently about some kit they supplied...

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likewise, i never see the point in paying someone to do something i am perfectly capable of doing. never once paid anyone to do anything on my truck, except make me an exhaust, that was way back when i couldnt weld for toffee though.

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