zim Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Looks interesting. How much machining on the hub - I'm guessing the back part to bolt on a disc ? In a side note, does anybody know what discs the Zeus kit used ? They appear to fit over the hub. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Thats nice that some one is offering the brackets alone, i would have snapped them up in a jiffy when i was doing mine. Went trough some hassles to get mine right with the machinists! Well done sir, you will not regret the conversion! G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPLP Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 I was trying to link to just the thread but cant. Its dated the 29th of October https://www.facebook.com/groups/18623089928/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Just machine the 5 little ribs that are cast on the back of the hub to accept the 4" bore of the disc, then a quick lick of the back face to ensure the disc sits flat and square so there's no run-out. I'll pop it on the Bridgeport then to pop in the 5 tapped holes on a 5" PCD for the bolts that hold on the disc. Looking at it, the plan is to hold it in soft jaws in a 3-jaw chuck on 3 of the 6 lugs where the drive flange bolts. This appears to be machined as a relieve. We will then clock the bearing seat on the inner end true, before putting in a bung for the tailstock to support the intermittent cutting, then clocking the wheel seating face to double check squareness. Of course, with 5 lugs, we won't be able to measure it, so we'll have to rely on a test piece to set the diameter on the DRO before we start, but the lathe should be big enough that we'll be able to check the disc for fit before we remove from lathe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 H the Series 2 club is a closed group you have to join, the Series group is public and might be easier https://www.facebook.com/groups/Allseries/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 What's 'Disc Brake Lubricant', and does anyone use it? Got my new seal kits and the instructions say I should use it when assembling the seals and the pistons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 probably just red rubber grease to pre lube the seals/dust covers. castrol make it in 1/2 litre cans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 What's 'Disc Brake Lubricant', and does anyone use it? Got my new seal kits and the instructions say I should use it when assembling the seals and the pistons A vast majority use a bit of brake fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 That's what I thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 This little pile....Is all for kettle's brakes, with the exception of the copper washers for the spill rail so I can change her injectors too......all for Kettle....Pistons extracted from callipers this morning...M8x60 bolts welded inside required to drag them out...they were all but completely in and I'd got nothing to grab. M8 bolt welded in and away we go. She's having all new pistons so it's not a problem. If I can get on they might well be installed by the end of November...looks like we're home for the rest of the month, and nothing major planned for the weekends, so weather permitting, there's every chance.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 did you try "blowing" them out with an airline, 99% of the time that works. just don't put your finger in the way.. ask me how I know!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 no Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Friday I got the callipers cleaned up and painted, and I've also repainted the brackets....didn't like the green! I've just given the mating faces wipe over, I'd like to get the fluid seals and the pistons in this afternoon, and hopefully the wiper seals and retaining rings tomorrow before I go to work...first I need to find a jaw to put some brake fluid in and be able to lift the seals out! If I can get on a mill next weekend, there's every possibility I'll get the conversion done next weekend...cant wait to get my mill up and running! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 So..the afternoon went a little differently to plan...both callipers now fully built up and ready for fitting!Specially made press tool made fitting the wiper seals and retaining rings a doddle, all 8 successfully installed with no drama Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 I love the look of a rebuilt set of calipers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 What seals are they between the two caliper halves? I can't seem to find them or any reference to them on my CDROM, also, what torque setting for the bolts as that isn't liste either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 The seals between the callipers are not available separately and have no part number, I reused the old seals which were in very good condition. The bolts are at 60 foot pounds, and I've given them the lightest of coats of copper grease Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 See my reply below Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 What seals are they between the two caliper halves? I can't seem to find them or any reference to them on my CDROM, also, what torque setting for the bolts as that isn't liste either The seals between the callipers are not available separately and have no part number, I reused the old seals which were in very good condition. The bolts are at 60 foot pounds, and I've given them the lightest of coats of copper grease Incorrect guys the caliper fluid seals are available as seperate parts, part number is 17H8764L shown in http://lrcat.com/#31/4/52911 item 14 http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?xSearch=17H8764L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 Oh well done Ralph...knew I should have asked you! Everywhere I'd looked I couldn't find them and people said they weren't available...as it happens mine were fine anyway 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Nice Colour..... G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 Back to Kettle's disc brake conversion....So, started yesterday morning early, got down to the hubs and got them off..only difficulty along the way was a seized caphead screw in the head of the FWH cap...drilled the head off and i'll deal with the stub later when I come to put it back together. Took the hubs down to work for machining...and that's when the fun started....Now, you would think that being a wheel component that rotates at whatever rpm, that everything would be nicely in balance wouldn't you....No...It turns out the only things that were running true to each other were the bearings...what a nightmare! The seal land and drive flange diameter weren't running true to the bearings...goodness knows why...the outside wasn't running true to them even! I ended up having to clock the inner bearing track true and then skim the outside very very carefully true to it, then turning it round, holding on that, and clocking the outer bearing track true, before machining the large wheel seating diameter. I then turned it back round, and held it in the four jaw to set it true on both the newly turned diameters, and double checking the inner bearing track before loading the tailstock to support it - oh, and the drive flange face wasn't square to the bore either!Once I'd got that done, it was easy to machine the 4" locating diameter for the disc and take about 8 thou off the back off the flange to make sure it would seat true.It must have took me about 3 hours to get everything setup right, and then the turning and milling only took about another hour and a half, two hours tops to do. As a result I didn't get any further, so this morning in barely-above-freezing temperatures I've changed the wheel bearings and fitted the discI've just pulled the O/S brake backplate, leaving the hydraulics still attached for now...just in case...now I'm having a warm up before mounting the first hub and checking the runout is within tolerance.I'm wondering now about making a pair of new steel hubs. As long as everything runs true and the runout is with limits, I'm not at all concerned about the strength of the modified hubs, the outer side is of larger diameter than the inner side anyway, and I doubt machining the ribs away has made the least bit of difference, and in any case I'm about to bolt another solid part to it anyway. There's a few things I don't like about the hubs and I think I can improve them, and I'm not happy about the various bits not running truw to each other either. I'm thinking I might get two billets of steel and make some new hubs, doing away with some of the unnecessary features and adding a few of my own...we'll see.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Nice machining it probably won't matter, but seen from a strength perspective you should have clocked the five holes for the discs. The way they sit now a crack can easier travel from one hole to the other seeing as the wheelstud holes are right next to the Disc mounting holes.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 25, 2014 Author Share Posted November 25, 2014 mutter mutter mutter...Well I still haven't finished it > No fault of the kit. Turned out I had the wrong discs, which I only found out after I'd already fitted them finally. Luckily MVC had some of the right discs on the shelf, and luckily I had The 109. So new discs fitted, back to reassembly...n/s wouldn't let me insert the calliper, so the hub had to be stripped and go back up in the lathe...turns out my hubs were worse than I thought they were, so that pretty much settles the new hub debate.So, discs fitted to hubs and bolts torqued up with Loctite 270 using my big heavy rubber back hub vice to hold it still...0.03 runout of the disc, so all the faffing around was worth it...Calliper bracket mounted. I do have one issue with the instructions for this, there's only very slight difference between the two brackets, and it doesn't make it obvious which is which. Now it's fitted and only just clearing the filler hole, its obvious, but a clearer photo would have been nice. Managed to wrok it out from the obscure photo provided, but it took a few minutes.Then it was on to fitting the callipers, which involves 'adjusting' the fit of metal on the calliper and the swivel housing...it only just clears the wheel mounting flange too. This is where we finished up last nightToday I 'just' need to make the old drums into wheel spacers so the wheel clears the calliper...its not going to clear at the moment. I need to refit the free wheelers and make up the short connecting pipe, then I can bleed the brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 25, 2014 Author Share Posted November 25, 2014 Nice machining it probably won't matter, but seen from a strength perspective you should have clocked the five holes for the discs. The way they sit now a crack can easier travel from one hole to the other seeing as the wheelstud holes are right next to the Disc mounting holes.. You're probably right...did wonder after I'd done them. These hubs are so all-over-the-place I've already decided on making a new pair. The seal land not running true to the bearings is got going to result in long life, and after fitting with it yesterday the pair are not even the same. Its interesting to note that the discs don't sit in the middle of the callipers by about the same amount as the 90 swivels they came off...can't be that much difference between them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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