landroversforever Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 I'm looking to see what others have done to protect their rear brake lines. I've found Nigels thread here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=53368 but not any others. I'm going to move the Tee piece onto the axle so that The brake lines don't have to be disturbed if the diff needs removing. Also going to go for stainless flexi lines from the T piece to each caliper. Is there any reason not go put stainless braided lines throughout the car? I had all stainless braided on my clutch previously and had no problems. So for the brake line protection, I was thinking along the lines (terrible pun!) of some 8-10mm bar bent up and welded to the axle case with some little stand-offs, then cable tie the flexis to the top of that. Having a 90 bend at the ends so it tucks up behind the caliper. Wanting to use a banjo type connection at the calipers, any reason not to? I did mock up what I'm thinking of, but haven't got the lead at work to get the picture from my phone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Look in the tech archive at white90's setup I used stainless lines from Dave at llama4x4 on my rear axle, with banjo fittings on the caliper. You don't really need much in the way of protection really - they are tight to the caliper and the axle case. Just a couple of tabs for p-clips is all that's needed The t-piece on mine is directly on the top of the diff There's lots of pics of mine in my members vehicles thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 The reason pro's don't use braided line through the car is for pedal feel; there is always a bit of ballooning going on in a rubber inner hose; whether you would notice it on a landrover is debatable though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 I wouldn't use braided hoses for an _entire_ braking system - but they're fine for side-to-side across something like a solid rear axle: indeed I did just this on the "Narrow Atlas" rear axles we used on the old Escort rally-cars. It meant that at a service-stop you could take the brake caliper off to replace discs/wheel-bearings without needing to re-bleed the brakes afterwards. (we had hydraulic handbrakes too - so two calipers/two hoses per disc. Ssshhh!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 I have the same as lewis from dave. Mine have survived ( touch wood!) about 18 months of trialing and play days. Along the axle I would use some strip with cutouts along the back edge for the cable ties to pass through if you do want some protection. I presume you are going for front flexis direct into the caliper? Makes changing cvs a much easier task when you can lift the swivel off caliper an all, although I think your all posh and have ashcroft cvs? Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 No need for 10mm bar when the hose is tucked right out of the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 That man's stolen my pet screwdriver I guess it's bluepoint or snap-on? It has lasted longer than any other chisel I own Here are my pipe guards that only involve welding the heads of M10 bolts to the axel case. I ought to re-do my build thread here on LR4x4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Look in the tech archive at white90's setup I used stainless lines from Dave at llama4x4 on my rear axle, with banjo fittings on the caliper. You don't really need much in the way of protection really - they are tight to the caliper and the axle case. Just a couple of tabs for p-clips is all that's needed The t-piece on mine is directly on the top of the diff There's lots of pics of mine in my members vehicles thread Are your lines an off the shelf part from Dave, or did you have to give a measurement? The reason pro's don't use braided line through the car is for pedal feel; there is always a bit of ballooning going on in a rubber inner hose; whether you would notice it on a landrover is debatable though. Well I would have some solid lines on the car, down to the rear above the Aframe, and the front ones down as far as one of the suspension links from where I'll run flexis down the link. I have the same as lewis from dave. Mine have survived ( touch wood!) about 18 months of trialing and play days. Along the axle I would use some strip with cutouts along the back edge for the cable ties to pass through if you do want some protection. I presume you are going for front flexis direct into the caliper? Makes changing cvs a much easier task when you can lift the swivel off caliper an all, although I think your all posh and have ashcroft cvs? Will. Front will have flexi lines down the suspension link to a T on the axle, and then flexi to each caliper. That man's stolen my pet screwdriver I guess it's bluepoint or snap-on? It has lasted longer than any other chisel I own Here are my pipe guards that only involve welding the heads of M10 bolts to the axel case. I ought to re-do my build thread here on LR4x4. I like the bolt-on idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Would it be a bad idea having a tube big enough for the brake lines to be pushed inside of? Or would there be a risk of the line rubbing through? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 When I used to road rally I found that the pipes were fine if they were located at the back of the axle case. Some people would slit washer tubing and fit that over the pipe. Yes it worked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 If you covered it plastic tube and then put it down a bigger steel tube it ought to be excellent Mine gets some abuse. I've ripped the right hand cover half off ! Ripping stuff completely off is normal for winch challenge and the dent's in the left hand cover suggest it has stood some decent impacts. It's 6mm 5083 ally, so it is resilient to bending. The same thinking has led to the breather being moved to the diff top with stronger fittings. It does seem that the definition of 'strong' is that you can use it as a jacking point But the best bet is carry spare pipe and/or some blanking plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Are your lines an off the shelf part from Dave, or did you have to give a measurement? I just rang up and explained what I wanted, choose a colour and paid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 I just rang up and explained what I wanted, choose a colour and paid Thanks Lewis. What colour options are there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 I'm not certain - it was a while ago. Certainly black and clear, also red and blue I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 I know he does blue and red I've always just told him what it's for and a length. Rather than putting a pipe down a tube could you just use a hydraulic thick walled seamless tube and terminate it appropriately for short flexi pipes? Guess it'd end up with a lot of fluid in it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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