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Propshaft phasing


GBMUD

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I have a vibration when on power at 65-70. Looking at the propshaft today it is not phased as I would expect - one joint is at 45 degrees to the other unlike the rear one which has both yokes on the shaft inline. Should I realign it or assume that it is correct? I understand about correct phasing to cancel out the sine wave speed thing, but my mechanic friend says he sees lots like mine from the factory, hence the question. I am on my mobile but will try to do pictures...

Thanks

Chris

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Sorry, I should have said, 2005 Td5 90.

The rear is as I would expect, the front not so. Any reason why it should be different?

Chris

There is a reason, I can't say I know it though. To answer your query, your props sound fine. Rear in phase, front out of phase

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When the flanges are parallel to each other like on the rear axle, the yokes are in phase.

When the flanges are not parallel, the yokes are arranged at 45 degrees like the front axle.

If you look at the front diff, the nose actually points up towards the transfer box.

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Because on the rear axle the flanges are on parallel planes the two UJ angles are always equal and opposite (ignoring articulation here), so the variations in rotational speed that are inherent to all UJ-style joints are also equal and opposite, thus they cancel themselves out. Hence rear prop has the yokes in phase.

The front axle diff nose points up towards the transfer box as pointed up out above, this means the angles and therefore the speed variations are not equal and opposite and so will never cancel themselves out completely. The phasing specified by Land Rover is a best attempt to match the sine wave forms of this speed variation together to try and smooth it out as best as possible. I had it in my mind the angle was something like 20 degrees but it may well be 45 as above. There should be alignment marks on the propshaft tubes themselves.

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Thanks everyone.

Today's task was to change the transfer case for a 1.2 from a Discovery, but while the props were off I decided to try to trace this vibration issue. As I said, the problem was at 65-70mph when accelerating and was pretty annoying. With the new transfer box fitted and the props refitted as they came off (but freshly greased, there was no apparent tightness in either before greasing) I took it for a test run out on our controlled environment closed test track where there was no sign of vibration up to 85mph, so as far as I am concerned the problem has gone away. Of course, it could be engine/damper/DMF/clutch/gearbox generated but since I will never drive above that speed in the real world the problem has now been solved for me. Perhaps it was the 1.4 transfer box, perhaps the extra gearing just fixed it by lowering revs.

Anyone know what speed I might now expect to feel the vibration with the 1.2 in place of the 1.4, assuming it is engine related? I could revisit the test environment to conduct further tests to see if the problem remains at the same engine speed or if it was more likely transmission related.

Cheers

Chris

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Just had a fiddle with Nige's gearing calculator and with a little reverse calculation/guessing I make it 2500-2650RPM at those speeds which works well for a 14% difference with the different ratios.

Chris

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