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Alarms/Immobilisers


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can't recommend a alarm/immobiliser as I don't know much about the but buy the best you can afford & make sure your insurance co. are happy with it --thatcham listed items are best, as for secure storage, it depends on how much space you want--- there are lockable sliding drawers that sit in the rear floor or the pickup style box that sit up by the cab & sit on the body sides/rear floor.

some here in the storage section

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I recognise that avatar pic from elsewhere!!

As i said, CAT1 is the only way to go (not worth getting just a cat2) - I had a Toad AI606 on my old 110 TD5, worked a treat. Look up installers in the yellow pages, but its always best to get recommendations to know you get a good job done. Also ensure you get an insurance cert fully stamped when its installed.

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got a thatcham cat one on mine for insurance purposes. Otherwise it's a bit of a joke as I can start it by bypassing the ignition with a battery & some leads..... I guess it would deter an inexperianced thief?

No electronic anything on the 200tdi, I'd expect they are more use on a more modern ECU controlled machine? ....

Jas

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Landrover secirity and the propensity for them to go walkabout has me worried.

My insurance company (Sureterm) wasn't worried about an alarm, but it's worrying me now.

I've just bought a battery isolation switch with a removable key.

That should stop most from taking the 110 away. Locking wheel nuts, removable-face stereo and plain common sense as to where I park, wherever possible.

Oh, and leaving absolutely NOTHING on show. I know that's difficult.

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As posted else where. I don't see the point in an Immobiliser on any Land Rover Diesel pre Td5 (excluding some late 300Tdi's).

All you need is a length of wire (two pieces if you don't want to push start it) and you can start it from under the bonnet (with a suitable 12v supply)

And any car thief will also know this :unsure::rolleyes: - So they would completely by pass any immobiliser set-up.

A Td5 isn't hard either..

I can get them started (Defender) without keys or the alarm key fob in about 3 mins if I'm trying (with a standard LR alarm)... only thing left would have been to break the steering lock (though I usually drill them off)... :blink::o

And before any one thinks wrongly off me... the cars are CAT B breakers so are usually supplied without keys and alarm fobs.

Stealing a non crashed one, without making any noise would take me a bit longer... ;):ph34r:

I'd personally invest in proper mechanical security items... I like the 'full metal jacket' pedal locks available from a few places (inc Kenson 4x4)

An alarm is useful as a deterrent, but how may people nowadays actually take notice when an alarm goes off??

Ian

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As posted else where. I don't see the point in an Immobiliser on any Land Rover Diesel pre Td5 (excluding some late 300Tdi's).

All you need is a length of wire (two pieces if you don't want to push start it) and you can start it from under the bonnet (with a suitable 12v supply)

And any car thief will also know this :unsure::rolleyes: - So they would completely by pass any immobiliser set-up.

A Td5 isn't hard either..

I can get them started (Defender) without keys or the alarm key fob in about 3 mins if I'm trying (with a standard LR alarm)... only thing left would have been to break the steering lock (though I usually drill them off)... :blink::o

And before any one thinks wrongly off me... the cars are CAT B breakers so are usually supplied without keys and alarm fobs.

Stealing a non crashed one, without making any noise would take me a bit longer... ;):ph34r:

I'd personally invest in proper mechanical security items... I like the 'full metal jacket' pedal locks available from a few places (inc Kenson 4x4)

An alarm is useful as a deterrent, but how may people nowadays actually take notice when an alarm goes off??

Ian

Porny, xcuse my ignorance, but what do late 300tdi's have that earlier one dont, mines a 98, with aftermatket imobiliser, but nothing more electrical! I use disklok and find it stows neatly between the back of the middle seat and the bulkhaed on my 110 ht, cos ive got one of those cubby boxes that keeps the middle seat in situ, just pull up the seat pad and push in the cubby.

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Don't know if anyone does this, but if not then here's an idea for free:

Have a sleeve between the steering wheel and the shaft that is keyed onto both with random non-aligned splines inside and out. With it in place the wheel is locked to the shaft - with it out the wheel spins freely.

Thinking back to my old Series 1 though - that had a neat little anti-theft device - a hasp & staple fitted to the handbrake and seat-box so that the handbrake could be padlocked in the on position.

As for not leaving anything on show - it may be a bit extreem, but I have just been out in the dark removing my nice new Dixon-Bate tow-ball and pin, having noticed how bright and shiny the plating looks in Sodium light - and thinking how much it cost me... I'll put it back on when I need it!

Back on-topic - Alarms and Imobilisers - I had 2 immobs on my RRC v8, one that was ' busted and not connected' according to the dealer I bought it from and another that they fitted for my insurance. Anyway... The other day while poking around under the dash I decided to cut out all the cr*p wiring from the old unit and... Well... You just try and guess how long it took before it would start again !

Rog

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I saw a programme on Discovery about an armoured 4x4 in the US. This vehicle had the ultimate anti theft device, an electric current running through all handles when vehicle was remotely locked.

In this PC-mad world, I woud have thought that the above would infringe on the scumbag's human right to rob yer! ;)

30 years ago my brother and I rigged a MkII Capri (with a Starsky & Hutch paintjob :blink: ) with an indicator flasher feeding an ignition coil bolted under the boot floor and it's HT lead (when released) dangling so that a screw up the end of it touched the ground. During tests on the driveway, when 'activated' the whole car would tick menacingly and if you brushed against it (even the paint) you would get enough of a 'belt' to put you off trying anything else. However there were two problems - a determined grab would get you through the initial shock-value and the subsequent jolts were tolerable; and the other thing was that we were testing it on a concrete drive and when tested on tarmac - the effect was small. I also suspect that if the car had had one, an ECU would not have been happy living with this.

Rog

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