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PLEASE PLEASE help guys this one driving me mad....Talk about problems in 3's

Ok started yesterday and im pulling my hair out

I go to start her in the morning and nothing when I turn the key

Keep turning the key and get click click click

Charge the battery over night make sure its reading is good 13.2 slowly drops to 12.8 when not on charge

And click click click

Put the battery charger to start position even after charging it up and click click ....If I put the charger on to start position and and attach the booster box and she starts fine ...........

Once she has run for a while turn her off. Re start her no booster, no charger and she will start fine

Leave her for a while and she tries to start but cant quite get there turning over but just not there add the battery charger on start NO booster box and fires instantly and will loads times in a row.

The longer you leave it the worse it seams to be at starting EVEN if I charge the battery then disconnect it reconnecting it a few hours later with the charger saying its a fully charged battery ......click click click

Dam MOT in just over a week and a trip planned in her

Any one any ideas on this ??? as driving me mad

Terminals all cleaned battery and contacts.....earth strap cleaned and recent new earth from starter

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Oh I do hope so that would be a blessing if it was just that

In the morning I can turn the key and just nothing not even a click keep turning the key and it may just click

Even tho a new battery is best part £100-£120 Id be chuffed to bits if it was just that

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Try running a jump cable from the battery negative terminal direct to the engine block. If this fixes things then it is an earth fault somewhere, if it doesn't then you need to look at the battery as suggested.

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Could be that the battery is being drained by an electrical fault (alternator usually). To test this - charge the battery, check it starts the engine, then disconnect. Next morning, reconnect and see if the engine starts. If so, then it's not the battery. Starter motors usually have 4 brushes which don't wear evenly, and as 1 or 2 brushes fail, then the motor won't spin quickly enough to start the engine, but a boost will do it. You could fit a new battery and for a while the starter will work ok and start the engine, but eventually the starter will fail completely. You can check the battery by doing what is known as a drop test. Connect a volt meter to the battery (should be between 11.5 and 12.2 V). Turn the key and the reading shouldn't drop lower than 10V. Once the engine is running, the reading across the battery terminals should be 13.4 V or a little more. Not sure what engine you have, but generally, once the engine is running you can disconnect the battery briefly and it will continue to run (alternator test). Just a process of elimination really.

Les

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jump start will only get your engine running and maybe prove that your alternator and/or battery has enough power to keep it running. If you accidentally leave your lights (or whatever) on, then your battery is fine, other than being flat. A jump start will start the engine, but the battery is not at fault and only needs charging.

Les

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Getting real odd behaviour some times Im turning the key and getting nothing at all as in starting not even a click turn it 20-30 times and all of a sudden she will try to turn over but not start ......is it normal for the back of the ignition barrel to get hot when keep trying to start it ?

I all so did the remover the + terminal then put a LED in between the battery + terminal and the plus clamp so presume this means I've nothing draining my battery

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Cant you borrow a battery of someone , thats on a car thats in use. Put it on and try that will be a definite illustration of your battery being cactus . The led should light up so you probably got the polarity wrong. :)

As above ign switch shouldnt heat up , and voltage drop could be a factor with the solenoid lack of full engagement .

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Ok guys took a wire direct from the starter trigger connection touched it on the + of the battery and real slow turn over then click click click even tho the battery is showing as full on the charger.....

BUT .......Mate turned up in a diesel with a 54 AH and 500 CCA stuck that on used the wire again and instant start .....put the trigger wire back on and instant start........ left it an hour and instant start ........so dare I say it looks like a Naff battery

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Well I think its as Western said in another post its the Yuasa silver HSB019 from Halfords £120 5 year grantee 100 AH and 900 CCA so should start her ok and those Yuasa batteries get a good write up

Yes, 2 in my 110, tight fit by they go in long sides together, one will fit no problem, I had to make new retaining rods/strap for mine.

currently these batteriers are £119 from Halfords, or less if you have a Halfords trade card :i-m_so_happy:

http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/bulbs-wiper-blades-batteries/batteries/yuasa-12v-silver-car-battery-hsb019-5-yr-guarantee#tab1

the spec

AH Value: 100

Bench Charge: 6.0 Amps

Dimensions (LxDxH): 353x175x190mm

Startup Power: 900 Amps

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Okay I'm driving blind here as this is a Defender and not a Disco but if the ignition switch is getting hot then that's where the problem lies, I would be checking the supply cable from the switch to the starter relay, the relay itself and any associated earth and supply connections and cables. Next clean the earthing bolts and cable lugs from the starter motor to the chassis, if possible run a second heavy duty earth cable from the starter motor chassis earth connection bolt direct to the battery and a lighter earth cable from the alternator to the battery earth.

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A neat cheap "tool" to add to your man shed is a battery hydrometer, you can test the charge and electrolyte levels in each cell individually and you would have had this problem fixed in no time at all, you cannot go by the charger indicator or by the little green indicator that some batteries have as it's only showing the charge in that individual cell. I'm glad you got it fixed :i-m_so_happy:

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get yourself one of these, they tell you within seconds whether your battery is good or not. you can get them cheaper too.

if you can't afford that, using a voltmeter to measure the battery voltage while the vehicle is cranking will tell you the same thing, anything more than a 2 or 3volt drop and its a duffer.

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