landroversforever Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 This is more specifically about the details when splitting an OM606 from its gearbox, but I've never pulled an engine from an auto at all, so any information greatly received! Whats the best way to go about splitting the two? LR specific information is also good for anyone looking back on it, and likely to have something similar on the mercedes lumps. Anything I need be aware of when I pull them apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Yeah, the torque converter u bolts from the flex plate through an inspection hole, usually found opposite side of the engine from the starter motor Other than that and the bell housing bolts theres nothing to it. It's making sure the torque concert or is seated properly into the gearbox during refitting that's the important bit otherwise your oil pump may not engage, although you probably won't be doing that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 Cheers . Refit is important.... as the hybrid ML/AMG box will be going back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 In which case, when you pull the gearbox, have a strip of steel handy with a hole in same size as the bellhousing bolts. Remove the box making sure to keep the torque converter fully mated to the gearbox, when put on the floor, bend your piece of metal enough to keep pressure on the torque converter and bolt it to. Bellhousing hole. This stops the concert or falling out while in storage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Big thing is to ensure you pull the box from the engine squarely back without letting it sag and so distort/damage the torque-converter-to-pump drive tangs. Usual trick is to remove the housing-to-engine bolts and then screw into the block-face half a dozen lengths of stud or rod-with-the-end-threaded - then pull the transmission back. The lengths of stud/rod provide guidance to the torque-converter housing and stop it adopting unhealthy/damaging angles. [ This approach is also good for splitting and refitting manual transmissions - it can make all the difference between things sliding together in seconds and an hour lying on your back in a pool of icy rainwater cursing copiously. Trust me on this! ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 I noticed a strip like that on the gearbox I've bought from CWS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 I'll grab some stud bar from work, I'll probably dry fit fit ML box and the engine without the torque converter for mock up purposes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 I have a set of these, they are very handy when separating the torque converter from the flex plate. Not sure if snap on do a finer ratchet version but would probably be worth buying if they do. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 I've got a set of the halfords ratchet spanners which should work OK. Will have to look when I'm next up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Not sure on the Merc, but on Land Rovers there are access panels so you can just get to the flex plate bolts with a ratchet. Every V8 excluding the Bosch you can just take the inspection cover off the bellhousing, on the Bosch there are two rubber plugs in the sump that give you access to the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 That would be the two square rubber bungs in the bottom of the bell housing then . Will have to make up an easily sealable plate to cover them I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Yup, probably. If they're anything like the rubber plugs on the Bosch, they'll be more than sealed enough, and absolute ar$e to get back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 Ah no, these have a hole in the middle of each one, and its from an ML too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Just don't do what I did when I first split an auto from the engine, I managed to undo the ring gear bolts rather than the torque convertor! A very LARGE puddle of ATF landed on the floor, doh Contrary to popular internet belief though, I managed to get it back onto the box with it still in the car (after removing from engine) with just a few wiggles and turning it.... Ashcroft even say this is nigh on impossible, took me all of 30 seconds! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Yeah I've never had any problem refitting a TC after accidental removal . It is much better to keep it all together though , as said earlier once out bolt a tag to a bellhousing bolt hole to hold the TC in while its off the engine cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 Yeah I've never had any problem refitting a TC after accidental removal . It is much better to keep it all together though , as said earlier once out bolt a tag to a bellhousing bolt hole to hold the TC in while its off the engine cheers Steveb To refit the torque converter to the gearbox the best way I found was to have the gearbox with the bellhousing standing face up and to drop the converter down the shaft. There should be a few "jiggles" on the way down but you will know when it is seated properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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