pantherslover Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Ive gotten at least 2 from the front. Between the extension box and front output shaft. And the rest from the back. Is there one on the front side at the top? I can't see anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Does this help at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 (edited) I had another look today, i can't see any more bolts. How much force is required to seperate it. ? I'm not wanting to damage it. Thanks bowie. That's a good foto. Looks like there are 3 up the middle. From the front.ill check again Edited September 14, 2017 by pantherslover missing info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Im confident I've got all the bolts out. So the next question is.. What do i do now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 From what I remembered needed quite a few whacks to break the initial seal when I pulled mine apart. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 IIRC, one of the "three up the middle" is a dowel. On mine (which I pulled last week), I initially thought it was jammed until I realised I'd forgotten the 17mm nut on the stud at the top which the earth wire for the reversing switch was attached. if you haven't already, remove the right hand gearbox mount altogether - unbolt it from the chassis and the mounting rubber. That gives a bit more freedom to wiggle the box free. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtrans Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 Hi, once you have removed it, get it on a bench, remove the sump and give me a call and I will talk you through removing the gear, changing the intermediate bearings and dropping the gear back in, or you can stick it on a pallet and send it to me , if it just needs these 2 bearings, with new spacer and nut only about £75 parts and labour and about £60 return carriage, Dave 01582 496040 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 ^^^^ Brilliant! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Thanks all! Ill get the mount off and see what happens. Im in spain ashtrans. But I'll most certainly need crush spacer and the two intermediate bearings at a minimum. I'll report back when i get it off and get the gear cluster out. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Ok, it's off. What i can't understand is that there are no parts missing from the intermediate shaft but how can the be a gap between the inner races and the casing? Tightening up the stake nut can only have the effect of squeezing the casing together but there is about 10-12mm of gap between the bearings gear assembly and the wall of the casing, is the inner casing worn away by the bearing steel? What can take up that gap? This is a real waste of my fading youth, im 46 by the way. Why didn't i buy a W463? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 10mm is a lot. the case does not look worn and to be honest it would be impossible to wear that much away. Theres only 10 parts the the inter shaft assembly including all the O rings and nuts etc. So Gear, Crush Spacer, 2 x Bearings, 2 x O rings, Shaft, Plate, Bolt, Lock Nut. How theres a 10mm gap is a mystery. However you are correct about the case being squeezed to take up the float but NOT 10mm! Possibly 1mm max! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 It should be a fairly snug fit and it isn't so I'm at a loss. I'll have another look at it tomorrow. This crush spacer isn't crushed at all. Some kind of b.s..is what it is. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Are you able to lay out the items that were there in place, in a line so we can see exactly what's been fitted (or not)? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 Yes. In fact tomorrow I'll shoot a utube video to give a better explanation. No wonder the damn thing made so much noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 Ok the gap between the casing is 10.75mm. Im thinking the aluminum casing has been worn away by the free to move inner race, which is supposed to be pinched tight. Some fotos fotos attached. Ayeee..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 I do not think its possible for the case to wear that much. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Sorry, the gap between the inside flats of the casing is 10.75 centimetres Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 So what now? Get a 10mm wide aluminum washer and put it on the end of the shaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 On 16/09/2017 at 7:37 PM, ashtrans said: Hi, once you have removed it, get it on a bench, remove the sump and give me a call and I will talk you through removing the gear, changing the intermediate bearings and dropping the gear back in, or you can stick it on a pallet and send it to me , if it just needs these 2 bearings, with new spacer and nut only about £75 parts and labour and about £60 return carriage, Dave 01582 496040 I'd call Ashcroft now. It's a great offer of help. Don't despair. It'll become clear, whatever's going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 It is a great offer of help i agree. We are almost there. I think the case has worn away. My fix will be to shim the gap with a wide aluminum washer and bolt it all back together. If everyone is in agreement that that is my best option in light of the circumstances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 I think that the shaft might have worn away, not the casing. Have a look at these two pics. One is a new shaft I've snipped off a website and the other is yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 (edited) Hi peaklander, It looks like because the edge is discoloured from bathing in dirty oil, the shaft is steel and the case is aly, the pin doesnt wear at that point. I need confirmation of the internal gap between the case end flats. Edited September 21, 2017 by pantherslover missing info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 Ok yes that makes sense. It was worth a mention IMHO ☺️ If I were you and I'd had that offer from Dave Ashcroft I would simply pickup the phone. You can describe exactly what you've got, what you can see and I'm sure he will know what's happened and have a solution. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 (edited) Ok, just spoke to dave at ashcroft. Very helpful. He confirmed that the case gap was correct. I really want to kick myself. Looks like i could have put this right without takung the tbox off. The problem with the gap caused by the plate and nut with the flat on to keep the shaft from spinning. the stake nut was loose, the shaft moved back off the flat and wouldnt come further forward because the flats werent aligned. Good job I believe in feel and precision over brute force. If i had taken the stake nut off in situe and turned the shaft to align the flats and tighten up, i would have been good to go. f***! So, jet wash the case, clean the bearings and shaft, send fotos of gears to dave at ashcroft. And poss new bearings and o rings and good to go. I think the bearings look ok the shaft is slightly scored where it passes through the case but in the league of microns not mm. Thanks to all ! Lesson learned, don't get involved in the first place. Edited September 21, 2017 by pantherslover missing info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 So do i change bearings? O rings certainly. what else do i need to think about doing. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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