Shackleton Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Outside of bolt on panels and a small repair I did to the scuttle of my D2 I'm about to start my first bigger bodywork job and need a little advice. I just ordered inner and outer sills for my new Vogue SE (RRC). Wondering whether I should paint the inside of the sills before I weld them together (I'm going to plug weld them). I've read it suggested that if done carefully the heat can be kept down and VHT paint can be used prior to welding. Obviously rattle cans of VHT are readily available, but I have a tin of block enamel on the shelf in a colour I'll never use in public again Should I use that, obviously not painting in the area I'll be welding. Either way I'll be waxoyling the cavity before sealing the ends. The other smaller Q's: I haven't seen anyone supporting the floor of the car while the inner sills are cut out, I'm worried about it sagging - should I be? I was considering buying a joggler for the hole punch facility they usually have, to save myself having to drill all the plug holes. There are some available for £20 odd, worth it? Thanks a mill George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 use weld through primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 As Qwakers said... weld through primer, I prefer to use the copper based one I find it welds slightly better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Those cheap edging joggler thingys work ok but by 'eck you end up with sore hands after a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Yeah I have a punch, it is hard work even with just ~5mm holes. Great for edges where distortion is minimised though. When doing many holes I just start the pillar drill up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Weld through primer is the first thought that springs to mind but unless it's different to normal primers, it offers no protection against the weather. My bulkhead patch has rusted through after 2 years where I never to round to topcoating it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Whatever you decide to do re the paint,may I suggest you spray inside with Dinitrol ML cavity wax after welding.The long pipe with multi directional jet works very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 All very helpful guys Will look for the copper based weld through primer. Struck me though that the YRM panels I just ordered are zintec coated. This is probably a weld through primer is it? Ally I have access to a compressor and have a half gallon of waxoyl in the shed, was going to buy the required gun and lance, do you think I'd be better off with the ML aerosols? George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 I had an interesting thing happened with dinitrol cavity wax, the workshop was a bit damp and I noticed a bit of condensation on the mill table. I was in a rush so just wiped it and sprayed the first thing that came to hand, Dinitrol cavity wax. A day or so later I came to clean it properly and there were spots of water under the wax film. So I reckon the box or cavity needs to be bone dry before you spray it. I dont think thats the case with 3m stuff that I've used for years which seems to displace water. blah blah.. I know your not supposed to spray it on wet stuff and expect it to work :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 I suppose Waxoil could be OK for internal stuff,just don't expect it to provide ANY protection to exterior surfaces - its rubbish... The vehicles I have treated with Dinitrol have been doing well,which is a relief, as labour wise its a costly job to sell to owners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 Blah blah Paul, consider yourself told off Going to go with the drill press for my plugs (thanks Bowie). Read up on zintec and it's a thin zinc plating so that's something. I'll go with whichever underseal option works out cheaper, budget tight as ever. Have to say properly applied I have found waxoyl great, using it since '06 and my cars are ungaraged 50m from the beach. Salt is airborne here. Edit: didn't see your post Ally, I do have to reapply my waxoyl at least once a year so maybe that's the difference but maybe I should try Dinitrol. Anyone any experience with removing inner RRC sills? George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Blah blah Paul, consider yourself told off Going to go with the drill press for my plugs (thanks Bowie). Read up on zintec and it's a thin zinc plating so that's something. I'll go with whichever underseal option works out cheaper, budget tight as ever. Have to say properly applied I have found waxoyl great, using it since '06 and my cars are ungaraged 50m from the beach. Salt is airborne here. Edit: didn't see your post Ally, I do have to reapply my waxoyl at least once a year so maybe that's the difference but maybe I should try Dinitrol. Anyone any experience with removing inner RRC sills? George Yup,plenty... very easy with a nice little plasma cutter ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 Haha well that won't be happening, it'll be drill and grinder for me. I'm not looking forward to it. Did you support the floor once the sill was off, I'm worried about the body getting out of shape. I'm thinking I'll take the seats out to take the weight off the floor, my sill replacement will have to come up into the floor anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 As long as you do one side at a time,nothing much seems to move.If you are worried, the best thing to do is to weld in temporary struts,then nothing can move. Most recent tip I can give came from my insurance lady - she said she has seen several welders using fire blankets to protect cars from weld spatter damage.Only been doing chassis welding recently,(Rear cross member on a 110 today) so not needed one yet.I have some restoration work to do on an RRC shortly so I'll get a couple for that.BTW my fire extinguishers are all up to date,the blankets are just a suggestion,which makes sense.RRC trim is expensive now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 Good calls all round. I have a host of extinguishers to hand and I'd also been contemplating how I'll protect the interior after I have the doors off. I'll be spraying of course too. I'll have to do the rear cross on my 2 door in the coming months, and the goal posts and the sills and the bulkhead... and yeah if the car didn't mean as much to me I'd accept it was quite far gone. You just reminded me though I forgot I did the rear legs on the D2 last year. Anyway fair play to your insurance lady for taking an interest. Talking tools and welding aye, sounds like you two were getting on well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Always take fire precautions. When welding a floorpan I once inadvertently ignited the tarry sound-deadening pads on the boot loadspace/spare-wheel-well of a Fnord Mk3 Escort. It's kinda worrying to crawl out from under a car after ten minutes with the MIG only to discover the entire car is now filled with acrid grey smoke! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Good calls all round. I have a host of extinguishers to hand and I'd also been contemplating how I'll protect the interior after I have the doors off. I'll be spraying of course too. I'll have to do the rear cross on my 2 door in the coming months, and the goal posts and the sills and the bulkhead... and yeah if the car didn't mean as much to me I'd accept it was quite far gone. You just reminded me though I forgot I did the rear legs on the D2 last year. Anyway fair play to your insurance lady for taking an interest. Talking tools and welding aye, sounds like you two were getting on well She is a very helpful and interested lady.The insurance company is the only thing between me and bankrupt if it all goes wrong.Every year we have a meeting to go through values,vehicles and kit. She earns her money and points out where I can make sensible improvements - they don't just take the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Yeah.....my mate with the 110 had to have a new wiring loom......busy welding in footwell patches and set fire to the tape around the loom....and the insulation....!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted February 4, 2016 Author Share Posted February 4, 2016 Was typically blasé about safety when I was younger but I've gone very much the other direction now. Goggles, gloves, overalls that resist grinding/welding (who here has set themselves on fire without noticing?) and having experienced mild ear ringing from watersports wipeouts, I protect my ears when using any noisy equipment now. The old welding mask is like a pair of blinkers, it's not nice to flip it up to find something in the wider area is on fire or smoldering with intent. There's a guy who does some heavier welding for me in Greece, he's been there turning out metalwork on the outskirts of a town since 1968. He welds day in, day out in dungarees a tshirt and sandals and hates using anything other than a hand held mask, gloveless. (He does wear a blacksmiths apron) One day I was in watching and he kept rubbing one foot on the back of the other leg like it was paining him, so I asked had he taken spatter to his bare foot. He laughed and said no it's a mosquito bite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 overalls that resist grinding/welding (who here has set themselves on fire without noticing?) Err.....who hasn't!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 Indeed, I don't throw that coat, those overalls or the welding gauntlet away as reminders! Scariest moment was lighting a load of blue rag which had remnants of brake cleaner on it -that was an 'oh ****' moment... I fitted a fire extinguisher next to the bench after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 "oh ****" moments? I've a pair of crotchless camo dungs, they didn't start out that way. Trick is resisting the instinct to beat out a crotch fire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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