Expert help Required

[Bowie69]

Black means it should be OK once charged up again.

White means it has likely failed, and therefore you need to get it tested.

[pete3000]

had 2x cxv24mf in the 110 battery box from tayna in 2008, lasted well till this summer, noticed they go flat quicker than normal if parked up now. About to order 2 more been advised the Enduroline calcium tech EXV90 is a like for like replacement size wise, but with 4yr warranty rather than 3.

[skirky dave]

Bowie 69,

No, according to the battery, Black means needs re/charging,,and it's certainly Black. It's not holding charge at all and not a chance of starting the Landy with 10.3v as it currently stands. But..my mate is calling round later so we'll give it a go on his 2.5n/a diesel, but to be honest i think there's more chance of platting fog!.

PETE,

Cheers for that mate, while i've been looking around the web, i came across  CAR BATTERIES ON LINE,  ABS Heavy duty 110L CAR BATTERY CCA 720  80AMP 

£70 INC VAT + INC DELIVERY +4 YEAR WARRANTY. Seems a good price. What you think mate?

[pete3000]

Sounds good, although I have used tayna since 2006 so am spoilt really, half the price of halfords for brands and next day delivery, via a courier that transports batteries properly.

Think most of their batteries are inc vat and £7 delivery mainland. The numax are £64 which is £71 inc vat 3 yr warranty, although mine only lasted 8 years....lol

[Snagger]

3 hours ago, skirky dave said:

Nick,

Seems there's different methods for achieving the same results, i can only go on what the Haynes manual states for certain procedures.

Some are obviously easier than others. WHY doesn't the manual state these. It would make life a lot easier.

I was talking to a bloke the other day regarding the water pump/pulley problem, and he said   "mm you could open the holes up but what you don't want is the fan slightly off kilter or you may cause damage to the water pump bearing, there supposed to run true" .......Just how much truth there is behind that,...i don't know, But the series 3 water pump pulley only cost me a few quid, Nothing really.

Dave.

The Haynes book mostly copies the LR manual, and that was written for workshops with all the tools and parts that might be needed.  We have to be more creative with our limited resources!

The comment about balancing the fan is right, but it's not hard to do.  I can't be certain it's how I did it as it was so long ago, but I seem to remember measuring up the outer diameter of the bolt holes (ie the outside edges of opposite holes) and comparing the measurement on fan and pulley, and then drilling the holes in the fan with a bit that would match that outer diameter (take the difference in those measurements, and that is how much bigger you need to drill those holes compared to their current size).  That will keep the fan balanced and centred.

[skirky dave]

Pete,just noticed this one also, same company bit bigger, just a few more pennies but with 5year warranty  

ADVANCED 110L XD+ TYPE CAR BATTERY

• In stock
• FREE Next working day delivery
  (order before 4pm)
• All prices include VAT & delivery  800cca 85amp 
• £85.00   This looks mighty tempting. The 5 year warranty could be the deal breaker.

5 YEARS WARRANTY

[Bowie69]

Yep, black means discharged, white = likely damaged.

 

In theory it should just charge up again given a decent charger -how long have you left it charging?

[Snagger]

I have been using Banner light commercial van batteries for a long time now and have been very pleased with their reliability and price.  82AHr is all you need and the 12J should start instantly, even in winter, if it's in good order; it doesn't need to have massive cold cranking capacity.  Most diesel LRs struggle to start because their fuel system is leaking air into the top (invisible leaks) which lets the fuel level drain back down to the tank, so they are having to purge the system on each start.  Make sure the hoses and unions are all good and it should start instantly every time.

[skirky dave]

Cheers Nick.

I shall have to wait and see what happens with the new'er pulley wheel arrives. If it's a no go,..then it looks like the drill might be coming out to play,,,again!!.

[skirky dave]

Bowie69,

Yes mate, we had it charging for 2 days solid and again last night until later this morning and ZIP, now 10.3v.

I'm only guessing here but i'm kinda thinking the internal plates may be damaged, there again i have no idea as to the construction of these.

My mates CTEK charger should have re/vitalised the battery, sulphated the cells/plates, and brought it back to life, but ..no.

I've just been looking on the Ctek web page and they say " If the battery is too heavily sulphated the charger will show up a RED error light" which means the battery's had it. 

This is what happened. So,,,,,another battery it is.

[skirky dave]

Nick,

I shall also check for the so called "invisible leaks" and tighten down every banjo fitting, bolt,nut etc etc.

Cheers.

[Snagger]

It's hard to find them, Dave.  The smallest gaps are too small for diesel molecules to come out, but big enough for gas molecules to get in.  But making sure the joints are all tight, with good condition olives on joints that use them (lift pump) and copper washers.  Don't over-tighten things, though, as you'll distort or break them.

[skirky dave]

At long last, I've been trying to sign in to this forum on chrome, for 2 days.....nothing, Internet Explorer,,yeh.

So,   my mate came round the other night and we tried the defunct battery on his motor, which I knew would be a waste of time with 10.3v but.....Anyway NOTHING, Pathetic.

Must get one of those Ctek chargers...Xmas soon.

Still waiting for my pulley to arrive, and should be here tomorrow..postal service willing that is. or should I say..if the postman can read and actually deliver it. to ME!.

Anyway, one question I did want to ask,.,..the small 4 bolt cover with a larger nut, that fits under the  timing chest casing, ( should have taken a photo) What exactly is this for. Is it a drain plug for excess oil, or to stop water getting in. Sorry if it sounds a stupid question.

Dave.

 

[Snagger]

6 hours ago, skirky dave said:

 

Anyway, one question I did want to ask,.,..the small 4 bolt cover with a larger nut, that fits under the  timing chest casing, ( should have taken a photo) What exactly is this for. Is it a drain plug for excess oil, or to stop water getting in. Sorry if it sounds a stupid question.

Dave.

 

No question is stupid.  Not asking would be!  

It's both.  The plate has a wading plug in the middle, plus and ear for carrying the wading plug when not in use.  The lug is normally left out to let any oil or other contamination drain out and to let the case breathe.  The plug is fitted when you intend to drive in deep water or mud.  There is also a wading plug hole in the bottom of the flywheel housing - the same rule applies; plug out normally, only fit for wading.

[skirky dave]

Ahhh, I see.  Cheers Nick,..I wonder how many fit / refit them when the ground is wet through. In other words, when their not dressed for crawling under the motor!!.  Memories of Sheffield a few years ago, when the River Don burst it's banks and Meadowhall shopping centre was 4-5 feet deep inside.

It's a good idea but I think it might have been improved, maybe a remote breather as fitted to the axles and suspended higher up would have been an improvement.

Just a thought.

[Bowie69]

A lot of people do exactly that, and if you google timing case breather or land rover breather kit you will find them for sale in various places.

[Peaklander]

Great thread Skirky.

Regarding batteries, I don't know how far you are from the middle of Sheffield but SYBS on Edmund Road have a lot of choice, advice and almost internet prices. 

[Snagger]

3 hours ago, skirky dave said:

Ahhh, I see.  Cheers Nick,..I wonder how many fit / refit them when the ground is wet through. In other words, when their not dressed for crawling under the motor!!.  Memories of Sheffield a few years ago, when the River Don burst it's banks and Meadowhall shopping centre was 4-5 feet deep inside.

It's a good idea but I think it might have been improved, maybe a remote breather as fitted to the axles and suspended higher up would have been an improvement.

Just a thought.

As Bowie says, after market kits are available.  They're simply a replacement cover plate for the timing pump pulley (the steel plate with three screws) with a fitting in the centre to run a  length of plastic hose to a high spot.  Nothing clever.  They allow breathing, but they don't allow any oil or fuel to drain out - you won't be aware of any cam/crank/fuel pump shaft seal leak until the belt slips or snaps with the results you're already familiar with.  So, any time you're going to go off road, fit the plugs, and remove them against once your on a clean enough surface.  It's a bad idea to leave them in continuously as they both hide leaks into the case/clutch area and also withhold the fluid.

[skirky dave]

Cheers Bowie, MMM on the surface of it, the kit you suggest, as I thought myself...seems a good idea. BUT.. as Nick has just pointed out, any leak of oil or diesel fuel could be disastrous and I don't feel like doing this job again anytime soon!!!!!..... SO..me thinks,.. I shall just leave the plug out, and screwed into it's stand off position until the time arrives / determines when it needs to be replaced. Lets hope I'm not dressed up taking Sue out for a meal at the time. Don't think she would like doing that job !!

PEAKLANDER..

Thanks for the interest mate, and the heads up regarding the batteries. I'm still looking and now there's another one to mull over.

Dave.

[Snagger]

A rolled up plastic sheet or piece of tarp is a good addition to a tool box - you never know where or when you'll break down.

[skirky dave]

Oh GOOD idea. Nick,

I use a piece of flat rubber on the driveway for crawling under the motor to stop small stone's sticking into my knees (painful) and shoulders, etc, but never thought about sticking some tarp in the back.  That's one to remember. Cheers.

 

[skirky dave]

Oh, by the way...I looked into the price of that engine mount to fit the engine as opposed to making my own. MY god it's expensive £120 and upwards. That is new, of course and scrapyards are a little reluctant to pull out the engine just for the legs. Even Paddocks (matlock) are expensive.

Anyway..the home made one's fitted now,  pictures/images to follow in a few days so...stay tuned. With a write up as to the how's / why's and associated problems faced with the job.

[skirky dave]

Ok, really getting there now. Taken my time and it's almost done....Except for one annoying problem,.....I thought to myself whilst I've got access to everything,( because all the front is off )  I shall have a look at fitting the Capstan MAP Winch, I was given a few years ago. Because torqueing up the Crankshaft bolt will be easier while I can get to everything.  Now here's the problem...it would appear that Land Rover decided to make/fit TWO different Crankshaft bolts  (1) Part number ETC7934 Short Stubby and Large Head size 41mm,....(2) ERR 605 Much Longer Bolt, 30MM BOLT HEAD, which is used in conjunction with the Metric Capstan Dog Drive.

Both have the same thread!!.

The one's fitted to both the Sherpa and the 19J TD are the Short stubby type with the massive head.

Now, I've tried the longer  ERR 605 BUT,, this will not fasten all the way in to the end of the shaft, it's approximately 25mm too long!!!.

It's as though the end of the Crankshaft is cone shaped or maybe just a dead end.

So,,,I contacted a company called, HNJ ENGINEERING based in Bristol as they make the Capstan Dogs and Bolts for both Imperial 3 bearing engines and Metric sized Bolts and Dogs for the 5 Bearing engines such as mine.

It would appear I need a shortened version by 25mm of the Longer ERR605 BUT threaded all the way to the head of the bolt.

Why, in all that's holy did they mess about with 2 different Crankshaft pulley bolts, I shall never know.

And,..these bits are not cheap!!.

Once I've got these ...it's job done.

Dave.

[pete3000]

Was going to say could you cut it down but shaft is undercut.

edit scrap that idea, just seen the pics. could do with one made from scratch possibly. or shell out for one?

[skirky dave]

Pete,

Morning,... I was thinking about this problem for hours last night and I think I might have found an answer. At least I'm HOPING I've found the answer.

Ok,..the Crankshaft bolt fitted to mine AND the 19J TD IS ETC7934 . ( Far too big) for the winch,.. HOWEVER, if you look closer at the part supplied by HNJ ENGINEERING , the part number is in fact ,..Fairey part number 6267-A4,  Now I don't know if it's me,  but...I'm thinking that, the Fairey bolt looks SHORTER in the HNJ image.  IF IT IS,. Problem solved.

If not, then it's finding someone to make the bolt.

The main problem is, I CANNOT find any information regarding the dimensions of the bolt, regarding the overall length,  M20-1.5 Thread.

Dave.