Best under seal advice.

[DC_]

Thought I'd ask in here rather than the military forum (no offence)

Ok having previously under sealed my last landy in waxoyl, I want to know if there is a better way? I'm thinking down the line of, after rubbing down the chassis to prime it with oxide paint? Then Hammerite?

I know the waxoyl is a creeping agent but after the last landy, it was a bit of a pain working on certain things as you also got covered in waxoyl again and again..... And again.....and

So what's your opinion?

[stephencdavies]

i used waxoyl in a pressure sprayer to get right inside the chassis, then painted the chassis with under seal with waxoyl in. i covered the ground with plastic sheeting so i didnt screw up my drive way and relationship with er in doors. it took a while but i think it was worth it. after a week i went under again to check on it. there was a couple of areas i missed so these were sorted. using a sprayer meant i could also get in to those hard to get at areas.

[studmuffin]

I use Dinitrol, both the interior and exterior types. I think it flows better than waxoil.

Before that I steam clean, rub with a wire brush/ flap wheel on a cordless drill, and then treat with rust converter followed by 2 coats of black metal paint ( either Aldi/Lidl or tractor paint).

The better you do it, the longer it lasts!!!!

Don't forget the eye protection and dust masks!!

Cheers

Barry

[smithtrevor]

I used POR15 on mine...good stuff but dont get it on your skin...else your wear it for a week !!!

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint-coating-electroplating/automotive-paint/por15-paints/por15-six-pack-black-rust-preventative-paint-kit.html

[Tanuki]

Don't use Hammerite - it dries hard - meaning brittle - and that makes it vulnerable to stone chips.

In the past I've used ordinary cheap gloss paint - lots of it, slathered on in several coats. You're after a thick layer rather than anything smooth so don't worry about wrinkles and runs. A few good thick layers applied in rapid succession will never fully harden, rather it just 'skins over' - meaning it's much more resistant to chipping/scratching than a paint that dries hard.

Alternatively, use bituminous paint: you can get a 10-litre can of the stuff for £15 which should be enough to do a whole chassis. Again, apply thickly!

[mcc1979ian]

Google Buzzweld or if your on Facebook look up the Buzzwelding page, this stuff is the best there is, I was a great fan of dinitrol but this stuff blows it out the water

[DC_]

Having looked at the price of it it's out of the running, £115 for 5 litres !!!

I'm reading a lot about TETROSYL chassis paint too,

I'm thinking of prepping the chassis (Good rub down and sand) primer on (red zinc base) then TETROSYL over that. Will take me a while to so but reading up it seems the best way to do it. I'm not a fan of waxoyl anymore. That POR15 I'll have a read up on.

[Paddy]

I remember the old Mini's, rear sub frames rotted, front sub frames covered in engine oil lasted three or four times longer !!

[Bowie69]

Red zinc stuff is junk nowadays, get a proper zinc rich primer if you must.

[DC_]

Aye the front of the landy will be ok with the designer drips...... I'll make sure I get a good primer. The job of prepping the chassis first. Might do it in wee sections.

Any suggestions for a zinc based primer that's not £115 a tin

[Bowie69]

This is pretty good, and the tin weighs 4 times what red oxide does: https://www.teamac.co.uk/products/category/primers-undercoats/zinc-rich-primer

[DC_]

This is a bit of an eye opener, I think I'm going to save my pennies for the good stuff and spend my time prepping the chassis etc for the application.

I'm seeing treatments of waxoyl for £400 ish.... If it's done right, this stuff will cost me nearer the £200 for the paints alone. But protected for a lot longer.

[Bowie69]

Yup, proper paint aint cheap.

But then nor is a new chassis....

[Happyoldgit]

Oooh rustproofing, one of my favourites

You can apply all sorts of waxes and paints on the outside of the chassis etc but more attention needs to be paid to the internals and cavities and ensuring that all areas receive a coating. In years gone by Waxoyl was the first choice for DIY wax coatings as it was readily available and heavily marketed [anyone else remember their old ads in Exchange & Mart?] but nowadays there are a plethora of other products available and I've used quite a few of them. I treated my last two 110's with Dinitrol products from new and they were nice to apply and stood up well in use. Taking advantage of the recent heatwave I have just done my new Ranger using Bilt Hammer Dynax products both inside and out and this too is nice to use straight out of the can, time will tell how it hold up.

Unless a vehicle is in a disassembled state where parts can be fully accessed for paint type applications I will always choose a wax treatment, most of which can be easily removed from external areas using the right products should you need to carry out work or maintenance. A small compressor and cheap Schutz type gun with a probe makes application so much easier as do the aerosols now although these tend to be that bit more expensive..

Rust prevention in Land Rovers has been one of the mainstays of forum discussions for years, there is a lot of good advice out there as well as a lot of entertaining and sometimes heated discussions. You pays your money and you takes your choice - but unless I was totally infirm I would always DIY, some of the "experts" that one finds on certain forums gained their initial expertise by reading advice from other on forums anyway. No names, no pack drill.

As this is not Defender specific I'm moving it to the International....

[Happyoldgit]

BTW Hammerite is ok for your wrought iron front gate or iron guttering but is too brittle for reliable vehicle underbody applications.

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

I'm sayin' nuffin'.....

[Mo Murphy]

Cat ?

Mo