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About Maverik

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    In constant need of Instant Mechanical Gratification!
  • Birthday 01/28/1983

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  1. The high pitch noise is often associated with the failure of the fuel pump that is located in the fuel tank, changing the fuel filter (if its not been done for a while) can alleviate the noise, but generally means its on its way out. A work colleague once put petrol in the tank, that made it squeal too, stopped when he topped it up with Diesel.
  2. Write to your local forestry commission, they great around here, getting a scavenging permit is generally peanuts.
  3. Not had experiences with Freelander, but what you've described I'd be more leaning towards a Discovery 1, as long as the steelwork is ok, the mechanicals are pretty simple to fix up, 300tdi pretty much bomb proof and much easier to get upgrades off the shelf. £4k you can really sort yourself out with a decent truck I'd say- Also if you're wanting the extra seating, Disco had the two rear "dicky" seats in the rear. I'd argue you'd get more "offroad" ability from a Disco than a Freelander, but saying that Fridge freezer ran a Freebie for a long time on and offroad, you can see his Thread about it in the member vehicles section. You might have to look around for a AC version but not impossible, or if you wanted to spend more on a vehicle Discovery 2 would give you that slight more luxury (AC), but you will need to make sure they're electrically sorted before you use it in anger. BTW, West Africa sounded like a scream... I respect your "off the beaten track madness", you've got bigga kahoonas than me...!
  4. My mate does this, just goes out with a bow saw and bag whenever he takes his dog for a walk, cuts up dead/falled trees to 2 foot lengths and hoiks them home, if you're doing that 1-2 times a day your collection builds up. Drying does kinda depend on where you're doing it. the trick is not to get it too dry, if its bone dry then the stuff burns far to readily and you end up going through heaps of the stuff.
  5. Just visited Buzz weld, interesting site, especially seeing their wee test area. I'm not so convinced waxy stuff is any worse or better for cavities than oil, I stand to be corrected but I'm going to persist with regular duck oil treatments which should hopefully build up a protective oily skin. I think the major battle with most of these treatment methods is getting the right conditions for application, get them all right and most of the treatments outlines above will work, get elements wrong and that's when they start to fail... thus everyone's different opinions etc.
  6. Good point! Although after playing this evening, the wand pump is quite clever, as you can adjust the air content in the atomisation, I found I didn't get all that much run off. Quite chuffed with it actually.
  7. After thinking about this for way too long too, and following this topic, I went and bought a chassis wand and a tin of duck oil. Tonight I'll be applying it to every crack, open hole, orifice, fissure, opening, gap... I can find on the 90 and the Disco (especially keen to fill the disco sills!)... slightly sceptical on how long it will last but I figure if the space I'm spraying it is not subject to water splashing past it, then it should get washed off... Mav
  8. The kit I've listed is a factory "upgrade" to the later style of lock barrel, the barrels are longer and slightly wider in diameter, hence why you need to replace the whole handle unit too. The ignition key/switch is the td5 style so the pin connectors are slightly different, but still work with old wiring (mines 86).
  9. New barrel kits as per below: Agree with above, layered security is the best and the X-Eng pedal lock is a superb bit of innovation that every truck should have!
  10. Can't say I've experienced this, there are some nice aluminium door handles locks out there for sure, but then its just another key on the ring to hoof about.
  11. Have you been underneath it with the engine running and listed to the bottom of the sump?
  12. The later style Td5 era door locks use I think a 14 pin tumbler as apposed to an 8, so its the same key for ignition, side doors and rear door, I have read about a few instances where thieves have tried to break the barrel and the longer 14 pin ones resist better than the early short key 8 pin barrels. I fitted one of these to the rear door on my truck, very inconspicuous and looks nice and neat too.
  13. Hey Arjan, could have been, I can't remember much about it as I thought meh I'll never need to do it that way.... What did you do with the body cappings? it looks like you cut quite a lot of it away on the inside?
  14. LR's over there are a bit of a rarity and they seem to be the reserve of the "posher" folk, did see a few standard ones on farm etc, but they all looked in really good nic compared to what you see up here, I think there's a firm called Iceland Rovers that do all the converted stuff as you see above, it was interesting though, as I was chatting with a few guys that owned and did the "super jeep" thing they said they often used LR suspension parts on other Japanese trucks to allow them to get the required lift for the big tyres etc...
  15. Looking for experiences of folk who have done a bulkhead removal bar (full bar type) installation, without removing the roof and side panels. - I had the luxury of fitting one last summer, but I was able to easily take the roof and side panels off. I want to avoid doing that this time if possible. I'm sure I read somewhere of someone who'd done it successfully, but after searching around I can't find where I read it. I'm just looking for any tips or tricks as to how you go about fixing the side legs to the body capping's... Cheers Mav