B reg 90

Try here: Spring Alignment Dowels / Bushings | SPIROL Adrian

Have you considered checking the gears for cracks with dye penetrant? NDT Test Kit | Weld Defect Dye Pen Kit | Cleaner, Dye Pen & Developer (tbws.co.uk) Dead easy to use and will give you a much better indication than you can see with eyesight. Ideally you would use fluorescent DPI, the rattle can basic version will do for your task. Adrian

Gazzer, looked at one of those clamshell pullers before and couldn’t quite justify one. what’s your thoughts on them? which one did you buy? apologies for the thread hijack. adrian

It's in the chassis. No one will be able to tell what year the back tub is (85' or 86!) You own all the parts. In the words of Tom Cruse in top gun - 'don't think, do'. Adrian

Nice looking canoe!

And I already watch both those channels! My earlier point is reinforced!

You can tell quite a bit by the utube channels someone watches! There seems to be great commonality among Land Rover enthusiasts. inheritance machining is excellent. I also like cutting edge engineering

Nice effort!

The push bender shown will bend roll cage tube. BUT the tube will flatten slightly. I remember there being an allowable flattening ratio in UK MSA regs. When I made my roll cage with one of those benders I was slightly the worng side of the ratio limit. However the scrutineer was 'helpful' as he liked the quality of the rest of the cage. So it will 'work' and for the reported price above they are good value. But don't assume you will automatically pass formal scrutineering if that is in your plans. Adrian

Nice work!

Superb effort. That’s not a simple job to do right

Looks superb. But I don't like to think about the cost - another thing making cars stupidly expensive to maintain,......

Make it bigger!!!! Planning is not that big an expense (£650 + £500 for your 2 moths extra storage) in the the grand scheme of things. You will never regret it being bigger, but will always curse it being too small for the want of £1150. After that I'd look at insulation, good lighting and security. Depends on what your area is like, but it will look like a nice big target to agricultural thieves. Steel door 6mm thick with reinforced hinges, make sure that the walls don't end at head height so the gits can peal back the metal skin and just climb in, secure storage for your tools (especially the ones the f**kers can use to cut the 6mm door open from the inside). The finish off with an alarm/camera system. Adrian

Corrosion on the cylinder walls? Try using a mini snake camera to have a look through the injector opening.

Once came back from Tom's farm in wales with a loose steering box arm that developed mid event. We stopped every 20 miles or so to re tighten the bugger. Seem to remember not having a big enough socket, so chiseling the nut around on the hard shoulder of the motorway.... Obviously I would not do that these days.....

Interested in your rear 4 link set up. How have you done the top links as the chassis end to get enough link angle? Looks a top job by the way. Adrian

Daan, I should have clarified that the comment was aimed at hydraulic winches where the overrun issue can cause cavitation in the winch motor. It’s not an issue on a mechanically driven winch agree with you observations on auto boxes and electric winches Adrian

WRT worm drives being one way or self braking. They can be but it depends on the gear ratio and if they are stationary or turning. Stationary - the lower the gear ratio the more likely it will spin if loaded in reverse (load on winch line, no drive to winch). This doesn’t happen on a H14 (48:1 ratio), but might on Daan’s 9:1 winch Under load - a worm gear is very unusual in that it has a sliding motion between the gears. All other gears have a rotating motion. The sliding means that when stationary the oil ‘squeezes’ out and you get high friction between the metal surfaces. Start turning the gear set ( with a reverse load, I.e hanging you 4x4 off the winch), then oil gets between the gears as they start turning, friction goes down and the gears will transfer load in reverse. I have done the gear calc for an H14 - they are only self braking in reverse under light reverse load. They will not self brake under heavy load. hope this is of interest adrian

The other consideration is what your desired winch performance is. The 'specification' for my 'not yet finished' system was borne from a discussion on the way home from a TAY trophy event in either 2005 or 2006. We had come second (with Bob Seaman and John Jennings), heavily assisted by my superwinch 525 PTO winch. We think we did 60 winches per day on the 2 day event. I used to run that winch in 5th gear as fast as I could - It was way faster than an 8274 and would do high speed full load pulls. It did however have a number of disadvantages like, high drive shaft vibration, glacial pay out speed (fixed with an air operated freespool) and a total inability to winch and drive at roughly the same speed - the wheels would spin at > 3 x winch speed in low 1st. The later was the killer. No issues if you are in the Argyll forest and have 100's of trees to winch from but bugger all use if you have limited anchor points. We kind of fixed that by building a massive ground anchor. But still it was fundamentally limiting. So, I decided I wanted 8274 unloaded speeds at full load on the bottom wrap. That means 45 - 50 HP to the winch. Once you start looking at this you realize that with an electric winch you just tickle the throttle to drive the wheels and all the winch power comes from the batteries. If you want a hydraulic system you need to be revving the engine, to say 1500 rpm, to get the torque required to drive the wheels and put 50 HP to your winch. However, the 1500 rpm engine speed increases the winch speed required too match the wheel speed no matter what diff ratio you go for. Basically, the drive train gearing is OOM 3x too high to allow you to drive the wheels at the same speed as the winch - you need an Ashcroft underdrive to make this work. These days maybe there is an atlas 4 speed option that would do the job. Even then you are putting serious power to the winch. You can either choose: 1/. low pressure really high flow rate, this causes: Installation/packaging difficulties (hose bend radius's, massive pumps, massive hydraulic motors, etc) - I'm talking WAY bigger than mile marker stuff. Massive valve blocks high weight because: Large volume of oil Pump needs to be big hydraulic motor needs to be massive to get the speed you need at the winch (with an H14 48:1 gear ratio). This is then impractical to fasten to the winch 2/. High pressure, low flow rate: Small(er) pump Small(er) hydraulic motor that will realistically attach to the H14 Smaller pipes/hoes Lower weight ££ expensive components The killer for option 2/. is the costs. However, when you go much above OOM 150 BarG you jump to hydraulic equipment that can take 400 Bar. So you might as well use it's capacity/capability if you go for it. What would I do differently if I were starting again? - I'd buy an electric winch off Jim and fit that. It will be cheaper and simpler. When I started my system design and buying parts Jim had only managed to make a prototype 8274 free spool top housing. Electric winches had not 'come of age' in terms of competition performance. Now a days don't waste your cash - go for a high-performance electric winch. Adrian

I was going to run without an oil tank..... Suppose I'd better justify that. Oil tanks do the following for you: Allow oil to de-aerate Allow for oil expansion when hot Act as a means of increasing the oil volume such that the bulk oil temperature does not rise as fast as it would in a closed loop circuit. This means that you can size a cooler for the normal duty point and allow short term higher duty points to be absorbed by the bulk oil. The cooler then lowers the temperature later when the duty cycle returns to the lower normal. What they don't do: Radiate much heat. If your duty is continuous then the cooler has to be rated to remove the heat input. If not after OOM a few minutes the oil will overheat. A bigger oil tank will not meaningfully increase cooling, but it will result in the time to overheat increasing. Not much use if your duty cycle is a constant 100%. 'Most' hydraulic systems are either static or bolted to slow speed industrial excavators and the like. Basically, little shaking and movement of the tank. In a 4x4 (especially at speed) the oil in the tank will be thrown all over the place. So, in my opinion the main function of de-aerating the oil will be compromised in a 4x4. I'd like to claim the inspiration for the way I had intended to go, but it came from a 'Pirate4x4' thread - 'Hydrodynamic buggy'. The build thread seems to have been deleted. But look here for a full hydraulic drive crawler (Hydro motor at each wheel, engine driving a BIG pump only). See links below & search for hydrodyamic buggy on Pirate. Why point you too this, well the circled device in the screenshot is the 'oil tank' (it's not a tank - it is just a fluid expansion tank and air catcher): Basically, oil is drawn from the expansion device, goes to the pump, pump discharge goes directly back, via a cooler, to the expansion tank. It is fully closed loop; the expansion device is just a 'bulge' in the return line that easily allows for any heat derived expansion. It also acts as a high point for any air, but once the system is set up and fully purged of air then it will be fully air free. The cooler needs to be rated to the max duty cycle though. However, if it can be made to work taking the full power output of a 6.0 ltr V8 without overheating, then it will work with a small hydraulic pump. What is the advantage: 1/. Lower weight 2/. oil aeration is not possible 3/. System will work at any angle Links to buggy info: Off-Roading On Another Level: Jeff Friesen's Hydrodynamic Buggy (offroadxtreme.com) Adrian

Lower pressures drive a bigger pump to deliver the torque you need. Think you will end up at either slow speed and lw pressure or higher speed and higher pressure

This is/was my project with the winch - chronic fatigue kind of stopped the job 10 years ago.....

Go for a bent axis piston motor on the winch - you can get 8,00 to 10,000 RPM out of them. A bit like this: To keep weight down you need to run high pressures, like 400 BarG. That forces you to use fancy valve blocks and the like.

Stephen, I will rephrase - perfectly possible to do with out one. But a damn site easier and quicker with one. So depends on you concerns about efficiency WRT to your personal assessment of your time cost. There is also the attraction of tools. Apparently if you die with the most tools there is some kind of prize?? Also if you have spent the cash it stops the wife wasting it on a new car she doesn't need as the old one still moves. Adrian

Fireball - if you buy from the euro web site orders under a £100 seem to sneak though with out VAT and import tax being added. Well that was my experience last year - placed 3 orders. Don't blame me if that doesn't work any more!