B reg 90

The fireball ones are the business. I have one small one. Well designed and well made. TBH overkill for the odd job (but we all like tools!!!). But if you regularly fab then you need them.

I think sherardizing is not so easy. There is some one on the series one club forum who has apparently done it. Apparently you put your parts + zinc powder into a rotating drum, purge with an inert gas, then heat the whole lot to ~ 400C while rotating the drum. Try 'Electro plating at home' as search term in u tube - you get Geoffrey Coker's home plating video - 2 million + views... Looks easier than trying to sherardize!

What is he taking /doing? Minded too support, but want to know more.

Superpants, A well written informative post. Thanks. Adrian

Nice bit of detective work. portals look nicely refurbished. Portal tec disk conversion by the look of it?

I like your diff holder!!

There seems to be a bit of HP bragging going on here….. So I see you and raise you - 53,640 HP gas turbine x2 on power generation Adrian

For mud master

Squadies trucks don’t not to comply with the same rules

May be ahead or the curve, or daft! However looking back at cars I have previously own I always ended up wondering why I had not tackled the rust and its cause earlier... And my job teaches you it always easier to do preventative maintenance rather than await failure. That said I still have the blooming thing in bits.....

I'm afraid I posted the info on another forum.... DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Rusty boot floor / Body removal Sorry!! This thread also links for TDV6 engine bearings: DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - What 2.7 V6 main bearing and conrod bearings have you used

I think the 'spangle' increases over time based on my D3 chassis I had galvenzied. Over 10 months since galvanizing it has gone from the shiny finish below too the finish in the second picture with more 'spangle'. Adrian

I see two factors at play: 1/. Bending moment applied to axle between wheels and spring - I would put the springs as far out board as possible to reduce the size of the bending moment. Then make the car as light as possible. 2/, Momentum of the diff tending to want to bend the axle on impact. Decent tyre side wall size, tyre pressure not too high, lightest diff you can get away with for application, stiff axle tube. adrian

My brother bought the mid torque m18 version last month - the one that does 790 ish Nm. He used it to strip the front bucket arms off his tractor that has 24mm bolting. It did it with ease. He was impressed.

The ibex you refer to is not compliant with msuk regs. But the aluminium bars are not his cage either. An ibex has a more robust roof/body structure that ibex claim gives roll over protection. But does not meet Uk motor sports regs. He has the aluminium bars (I believe) to act as anti rub bars against trees etc to save the body. At the end of the day to properly weld aluminium structurally take £££ kit and a lot of skill. Just stick with steel where you can use more readily available welding equipment and skill sets.

The bmw m57 can be made to run out of the bmw using the existing ecu - but it needs mods to the ecu ‘files’. Later the engine the more involved. I’d suggest you need too find some one interested in hacking the TDV8 ecu. Try Marcus Williams at MWMachines. He has a guy who does his ecu work. You might find it’s not worth his while, but you never know. Or learn how to hack ecu’s!

Try cleaning the brushes in the alternator?

It depends….. once drove a mid ‘90’s Astra with a duff alternator - did about 30 miles before the spark got too weak….. then I had too walk! mechanical injected diesel - will run on with no battery voltage. Newer engines will not like it (ecu’s, electronic injectors etc)

Just write a letter saying you fitted it and specify the engine's origin's (provide some proof), state that it's fitted using LR parts, i.e. bellhousing for LR, LR engine mounts, LR fuel system, exhaust system follows a safe route, air intake is not in passenger compartment, etc. Stick in some nice pictures showing the quality fitment. Wait and see what happens. Worst case you have to get a garage to put in on headed paper.

I down loaded the manual for my Disco 3 from topics. I took the week long subscription. I needed it - the manuals are down loadable in small sections, say 3 or 5 pages. I opted too print it as I only had access to a work PC at the time and the IT policy made saving files from the PC to a memory stick impossible. The massive office printer took hours to print it all out. The stack of double sided paper was 3 foot tall at the end and this did nto include the wiring diagrams. However it was worth it as the info is invaluable. If I bought a new defender I'd be straight back on downloading the manual.

Think that on a 110 the mid box in the exhaust is out of the way, ie further back. On a 90 the drive shaft clashes with the box. Easily fixed with a bit of a custom exhaust section. drive shaft is week link. They vibrate at any kind of speed (like 5th gear and ur foot down!!). Think Daan use a freelancer prop to get around this?

I've got exactly that welder. Its been faultless for two years. To be fair its not had industrial level work. But appears to be quality kit. Its supposed to need a 16 amp fuse to use the full 200 amps. I have it wired to a 16 amp 240 plug, but then have a home made 16 amp to 13 amp plug adaptor so I can plug in at a 3 pin plug. Logic was that I would install a 16 amp plug in the garage. But never blown the 13 amp fuse, so not bothered. You dial in the material and thickness on the screen - it sets ampage and wire feed automatically. You can override the wire feed if you want. You find that you increase the thickness above or below the actual thickness to account for how the joint is set up/how much of a heat sink it is/how you ground the weld prep. But you can set up a simple T joint, dial in the material thickness and weld. Easy peasy. I'd buy the same again. Adrian

Rear tailgate? Not done one myself. But apparently when it fails completely u have to pull door app art from the inside. Might be worth tackling before it totally fails. goid info on disco 3 forum

Most likely there is a leak in the air system causing compressor to run on. sort the leak - it WILL kill the compressor. prime candidate is the air tank. They get pin hole rust leaks in the top. Easy to drop to inspect

Oooo. Looks good. So does the cad model of the lift? Any chance u could share or point too where you got it from? I’m drawing up my garage plans as my corona project!