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2002 style Defender dash panel


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Okay guys (and gals)

Since LR4x4 has been the first place to pick up on our dash console and since some members have been cheeky enough to ask :) (yes-hard to believe I know...), as an introductory offer, MUD-UK are offering a 10% discount to anyone ordering one of our new MUD Dash Console's throughout October.

For further details on the product click here

When placing an order just mention you saw the dash on LR4x4 to get your discount.

Kev

PS For those who need to know, the console measures 340mm wide.

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oh no.... Now I got a bigger dilemma.... Better see about sending the Scorpion one back.. Specially since they charged me for switches they didn't have when I ordered and didn't think to mention it !! (got those credited soon enuff tho !)

Do you have switches if I need them Kev ??

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V8 Freak

Do you have switches if I need them Kev ??

from the Mud Stuff page link

Please note that the MUD Dash Console does not come with switches/gauges, nor are we able to supply switches and gauges. However, we are happy to point you in the direction of suitable suppliers.

that should answer your question Neil :rtfm::i-m_so_happy:

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Doh !!!!

Missed that !

Thanks for the pointy emoticon.. Me bad boy....

Will give Scorpion call on Friday. If they not got switches 3 weeks after selling me console (with switches) I'll see about sending back...

Mud one is cheaper and looks more versatile...

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We looked at supplying the switches, however, one of the main benefits of our console design was that it allowed the installer to fit whatever switches they fancied or re-use any existing switches they already had.

Supplying switch type A or B we figured was restrictive to both us as the supllier and you as the installer, plus it also gave the impression that's all you could fit.

We also figured there would always be those people who didn't want either A or B, but would want switch type X or had three of Y and needed an extra one to match. Rather than end up with hundreds of switich options on our shelves, it was just far simpler to leave it to the recognised switch suppliers like VWP.

V8 Freak: For the record, Croytec supply the same ARB/Carling type switches as those used in the SR dash. Got some recently for one of our dash installs and they had them on the shelf. Don't know about the ones SR supply, but Croytec can supply the switches with illuminated indicator panels for spotlamps, heated screen etc.

Kev

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well having decided to fit ARBs over the summer I needed somewhere for the three switches to go plus I still had the CB head unit cable tied to the dash and the engine fan switch was still ‘jammed’ in a gap on the dash since that went in a year ago. So I looked at prices of what I could find, thought I’m not paying that and decided to make my own, shame really as I only had 3mm ali and not a lot of time. Hence it came out bad, functional, but bad.

dashfrontSmall.jpg

I therefore followed this thread with interest to see what would come up, having seen the scorpion ones and the other copies with a scorpion price to match them when the MUD came along it looked good value for money. A couple of PMs to Kev and one was on its way at forum discount price at the beg of this month.

Well eventually got around to fitting it last week. Initial impression is that there is more bubble wrap in the box than product! Its very well packaged and came the day after ordering which explains the steep £8 or so postage. It also comes with a well put together instruction booklet that even I could follow.

The cover its self is a strong black plastic with the two circle indents in the bottom corners for the RWW and ciggy lighter, nothing on the front case is predrilled. It is easy to work with, drill etc and surprisingly strong, the best way I found to make/enlarge switch holes was to drill them out then file the edges. Hand file worked best, dremmel just clogged (but it had been used for ali previously!!) you can mount what ever you want where ever you want on the front so its pretty versatile. My initial plan was to mount the stereo and CB one above the other with the switches on the top edge, but looking at where the wiring would go it looked to be tight from the angles. Ditto I think a CB/Stereo in the top angled mount would make for interesting wiring on a top row of switches as the angles are too tight in my opinion. (the back of the CB could foul the wires on the back of the switches.)

backnewSmall.jpg

I also don’t think you could get a CB in the angle and a stereo in the top horizontal slot, unless both were very short! If you intend to fit a row of gauges, again this will be tight it you have the stereo/CB anywhere other than the bottom horizontal position. Alternatively there is tonnes of room to mount the gauges in the sides as per my voltmeter. If I do get more gauges they will go in the top angled part of the dash. I have also gapped the current switches but you could add more and remove the whole section to put them in as one long bank.

frontnewSmall.jpg

The back and side plates are sheet steel? (1mm?) painted black, and predrilled. These fit as shown with all but two of the mounting screw going all the way through the plastic trim and into the metal behind. They are all self tappers.

FrameworknewSmall.jpg

You don’t necessarily need to remove any of the front dash, it depends what you intend to fit where on the front cover, as I wanted the stereo at the bottom it need to come out, angle grinder was the best option. (note this was already out from the previous dash monstrosity!) You are also meant to mount the unit central to the vehicle, ashtray is a good ref point, although if you do this you loose any decent space in the cubby hole next to the instruments where I like to keep a mug/drinks bottle, so mins is further to the left.

The finished product:

fittedSmall.jpg

sidefittedSmall.jpg

The CB is mounted to the existing dash rather than the new one. The new dash is held onto the backing plates by two side locating screws at the top and then two further screws through the base of the front edge (under the dash) into the existing trim and metal work.

The whole structure is very solid and despite my slightly wonky looking switches looks bloody good, but then the last one was very bad. It will also serve to hold extra gauges and switches in the future should the need arise. For £50 or so its bloody good value, well made and easy to fit. The only prob now is it makes the rest of the wagon look even worse!!! Wouldn’t mind one for the TD5 now as that’s running the old style dash with the same problem, no room for switches etc! Overall a good product and I would certainly use them again. (and no I don’t know them/was asked to do this etc, its just my personal findings).

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My mate Earl [on here] & myself fitted his Mud dash to his 110, it tidied up the dash very well & was very easy to fit, took us a good part of the day, he's fitted 7 switches at the top angled area, with the battery gauge to the right of the switches, rear screen wash/wipe at bottom right & cig lighter to bottom left, with cd/radio in the lower slot, leaving space for a new cb or more gauges.

hopefully he'll put up a photo soon or he'll get me to do it :i-m_so_happy::hysterical:

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had a crack at installing the Scorpion Racing version today.....

I started with this..

DashOld.JPG

DashOld2.JPG

It was time to remove and have a good clean out...

Clearout.JPG

(Make a note of where all the wires go if you are using the same switches, guages etc.)

It was time to get the junior hacksaw out and start cutting (after measuring everything up of course...)

I was able to use a Stanley knife to remove the plastic/rubber facia around where the clock etc came out to reveal the metal of the dash. Tin snips and junior hacksaw were all that was required to cut away the unwanted metal. I filed the sharp edges and hammered the excess metal on the bottom lip flat..

I had to cut away some of the top rail on the dash and then offer up the new backing plate.

Cut%20and%20Offer.JPG

I was hoping to get away with not cutting the grey of the back dash area but the unit is designed to fit and fasten with the grey vent removed.

So top dash screws loosened, a few grey poppers removed (and usually destroyed) and the grey dash backing was out. A bit of measuring and a quick pass with a general purpose wood saw and the two end pieces were re-inserted and dash re-secured.

Once removed the back plate fits very snugly.

Rear%20Dash.JPG

It was a case of drilling and screwing where the instructions indicated to secure the back plate. Plenty of screws provided.

Secure.JPG

It was then a case of drilling, plenty of use of a circular file and fitting the ciggy socket and rear wash wipe switch.

(Western advised how to remove the knob off the wash/wipe.... Insert small screwdriver or similar into the innocent looking hole in the knob. A secret button depresses and the knob cover can be pulled off)

Clocks fitted perfectly first time and the wires sorted, prepared and connected.

Time was passing away and darkness falling so I placed the radio into the hole for effect and fitted the blank plates in the switch holes.

The facia then presented to the back plate, four screws inserted and the dash looks pretty different !

Side1.JPG

Side2.JPG

Frontal.JPG

I have to say, it was an easy job to do, the product is very well engineered and fitted very well.

I'll be doing the wiring and radio replacement another day but I'm sure you can see what is involved if you are thinking of trying a dash replacement for yourself.

If you have any questions please drop a response in here or send me a PM.

Neil

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Well as I said previously I've now popped into the guys at Iron Goat who make the model that SR sell. Very friendly and keen to help. As with all LR owners around the world a quick trip to his workshop then led to a tour of his motors. A very tidy 110 purchased from the military in Canada a tidy S3 and a couple of veh in need of a little TLC in the carpark.

A chat and quick demo of how it was concieved and a look at the prototypes more LR chat and a couple of hours had passed.

I now have the problem of fitting it into my already overloaded bags. If you buy from them direct it costs about 90$ Canadian to post. ( about 45 Quid). I left them with a my supply of LR mags that the wife had sent me and got a cracking deal.

After looking at the pics on the previous post and now seeing the quality then I'm looking forward to getting back and doing the work.

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Great dash set-ups guys, does anyone know how any of these kits would work with the fascia (dash cover) that goes all the way across, my 85' 110 dbl cab has this with 5 vents (for the a/c), looks like I might need to cut the centre out. The mud one looks great. Anyone know of switch suppliers in Canada or the middle east? I'm a hard time finding parts in the UAE. New parts are extremely over-priced here and take forever to get. As I'm back and forth to canada every 2 mos I could always come through the uk and pick parts up and meet some of you guru's that have been so helpful to a LR newbie!

Thanks Tracy

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Great dash set-ups guys, does anyone know how any of these kits would work with the fascia (dash cover) that goes all the way across, my 85' 110 dbl cab has this with 5 vents (for the a/c), looks like I might need to cut the centre out. The mud one looks great. Anyone know of switch suppliers in Canada or the middle east? I'm a hard time finding parts in the UAE. New parts are extremely over-priced here and take forever to get. As I'm back and forth to canada every 2 mos I could always come through the uk and pick parts up and meet some of you guru's that have been so helpful to a LR newbie!

Thanks Tracy

These guys http://www.ig4x4.com/item22.htm supply the dash panel that Scorpion Racing import, you could get one direct or from http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/Dashconsole.html both of these are shown in this thread & both can supply switches [see the respective sites for more info]

If your dash is like this -------------

NAS110Dash.jpg

it will depend on what parts if any are behind the panel, I think one of these dash units would look good as part of that full panel. you could relocate the 2 vents/switches nearest the steering wheel & the 3 gauges into the new section.

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Ralph,

That is the dash config, on my vehicle, the mud stuff is the one I think I'll get, along with switches via their links. Will take photos of the project. The bonus is that my bulkhead doesn't have the vents on it, so no water leaks and interference. Where do you come up with all this information and photos you keep providing, oh wise one? :)

Thanks,

Tracy

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madcanuck,

Where do you come up with all this information and photos you keep providing, oh wise one?

from the interweb/my books & parts cat/manuals, it's all out there somewhere :i-m_so_happy:

if you look at the cutlines for the Mudstuff dash, you'll need to cut vertically up between the 3 square switches & vents on the drivers side & just to thr right of the rear wash/wipe & cigar lighter switches on the passengers side & a horizontal cut at the bottom of the indent area below the existing full panel.

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Thought some of you might like to see this install pic sent to us by a customer.

jaysdash.jpg

Tracy

Since your Defender has the early air-con configuration I think it doubtful our (MUD) console will work with your dash without some serious reworking of the dash innards and re-routing of air-con trunking.

Kev

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My flight panel

DSCN0970.JPG

Well thats what it looked like <_< , its stripped down now for the SVA to take away any sticky out bits that might fail it.....

still there all but behind the dash all safely taped up ;)

Fantastic! What is the Brantz panel to the left?

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