Stazworks DOUBLE Internal Beadlocking Rims - A Tech Thread

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Hi all,

I have had a few PMs asking why I am selling my beloved MACH5s, Me old faith Mach 5s for sale ,

and having now done their replacemnt here is a post as to the whys wherefores and the new chosen route.......

I have had a prob now for some months.............. (no not that sort of prob the cream cleared that up : )

The BHP and Torque 'on tap' means that when and if I air down my tyres off raod for grip to say less than 20 psi (which is not low enough)

I simply find I pop a tube...... . What happens is that when say the 90 grips on a root or rock ......and the loud pedal is pressed ......the tyre grips ....the engine delivers and the BHP and Torque kick in...and then the tyre spins on the rim and the tube goes "POP" and thats that wheel screwed for the day

Last year at the Mike Wolfe Challenge I did 2x tubes setting out and 1x on the day,

apart from being expensive its getting silly as it makes me leave the pressures to 22+ PSI or accept the tubes are 'lunch'

I have looked about and considered the options, they seem to me to be :

Option 1.

Single Outer Beadlock Rims

Pros

Cheap(ish)

Easy to get in UK

Sort of pretty much sort out the problem

Cons

Illegal for raod use (confirmed with VOSA via 2x chats - breaches C&U regs)

Insurance company refused if fitted any cover

Option 2.

Staun Air System

Pros

Does what is asked of it

Easy(ish) to change a tyre if needed

Cons

Price - they are not cheap

Pig to fit (so I am told)

Can suffer from puncture

Drill 2nd hole and Pig to fit

Option 3.

DOUBLE INTERNAL Beadlock rims

Pros

Does exactly what it says on the tin

VOSA Road Legal .....and Insurance OK ....as they are in effect a run flat slpit rim

Er..thats it

Cons

The cost...oh F me the cost even with the $ to £ exchange rate

HUGELY Time consuming to fit (32 bolts per rim and some Frigg*n about

UK limited if you wnat real decent quality (I have tried Matt Lee........ stopped

hmmmm......SFS ?...... I was just 'hugely unimpressed' (as others are) .....with service / .....and potential qulaity)

Oh,,,dfid I mention The Cost ?

Time from order to delivery

BUT.................

Having considered all of the above I have gone for the STAZWORKS DOUBLE Internal T System Beadlock system.

Thanks to Jez who was talking to John at Stazworks re Mouse, I was able to add to his order for a set of DBL rims, I was also very lucky to be offerred one of the 1st cracks at a soon to be launched special version of this well respected product - more later

These now when fitted means no more 'tube lunching', no more mud filled rims,.....and worrying about this happening, .....

...this post now explains

• What is a DBL Rim ?
  
• Where is it from ?
  
• How does it work ?
  
• How do you go about fitting it ?
  
• What does the finished item look like and how is the quality ?
  

I can say that even with the $ to £ exchange rate these are NOT cheap,

in fact the cost of 5x of these may exceed many of the £s Value of some 4x4 at playdays,

this is NOT a cheap option, ................

don't even think that, but, it you want tyres to stay on the rim under most conditions, but not all 100% of the time - then these are the jobbies.

If you read on you have been warned

I ordered a set of rims just before christmas - I run 34 x 10.50 x 16 Simex JT2s, and thats when the conversation started with John at Stazworks re this new soon to be offically launched upgrade to the current range of Double Bead Locking rims.

The sizes of tyre are critical as the "Donut" is made to the rim size and the tyre size and type and side wall thickness re clamping forces,

this means that unless I change the inserts I am limited to tyres that have a similar side wall thickness to the Simex,

for me this is not a problem, I will always want a hugely agreessive Off Road Tyre like the simex,

many of which share the carcass dimensions, .....................even then the donuts are not spendy to replace if required.

The wheels I have and ordered where :

7x16

'T' Option on all rims

95mm Backspace

Cold rolled rock ringed

Press centres

Stylee 30

Coated black

Basically to explaing the above :

I went for 7x16 to give the thinest "Profile"

'T' Option.

This is a step forward in the design, currently the DBL have the internal donut, but of course as and when you bash the sidewall although the tyre stays on the rim due to the donut it can't stop air escaping, thus often you will find that you will during heavy use loose air, the heavier the usage the more likley you'll loose too much air and have to stop and sort, if you have on board air then that easy ish enough....but then I heard about the new 'T' Sytem

Simply this is a bit of a "Combo", and in my Very Humble opinion takes the good points from both ther Staun Air System and the stazworks DBL system and combines them. You still have the split rim idea, still have the donut as well, but also now this will have a small "D" shaped tube that sits on top of the donut and sits in the viod of the tyre space, thus giving you via the tube the ability to up and lower the internal tyre pressure, but now bashing the wall doesn't mean loosing air

So this was the system I decided on, and also I decided to buy a couple of spare tubes as these are obviously specially made with a D profile rather then the std inner tube. The entire set up is prob easier to see in the pics I will post further in this thread. So Double Bead Locking rims with tube - hence I guess the "t" designation

95mm backspace

This means place the rim outer edge down on the ground,

place a straight edge across the back face of the rim,

and measure DOWN the the face the the centre of the wheel which would be the part that makes conatct with the hub face of the studs - that is backspace.

I chose 95mm as this is on a 7x16 rim the most offset you can have and just about (if trimmed and tweaked) clear the arches on a 90)

8x16s are "Fatter"and mean less lock, but it does mean I can't go much wider than 10.50 inches on these rims - thats fine with me tho

Cold rolled rock rings

The edge of a rim is prone to damage when you hot a rock roor or something really hard.

This can cause the thin rim edge to deform,

and then your in to a work of Sh*te beating it back out and trying to get it true again.

CRR are basically a big lump of round bar (BIG) rolled into a 16" friendly ring and welded and then ground back ........so you have a HUGELY strong wheel rim edge.

Pressed Centres

Rather than a flat piece of plate as the wheel centre (A LA 'SFS') welded into the rim a pressed centre adds a HUGE amount of strength to the rim,

so I opted for these,

being a Tart I also thought they looked nicer so 2 reasons

'Stazworks' (who supplied these) www.stazworks.com

do a huge range of stylees, these were just the ones I thought were ok for me,

and also Bl**dy strong too, the 2 parts of the rim are 6mm each, .........that means when the 2 come together and are bolted to the hub that 12mm strength

Coated ?

well for the extra cost the coating seemed a bargain,....... that and Jez said the coating works and sticks well, ......that was good enough for me.

So, I paid the money and waited.

They then were made,

I had to obviously pay Stazworks,

and then the shipping company,

oh and shipping from the USA is NOT cheap,

then some weeks later on arival you have to pay import duty VAT and gawd knows what else and then finally UK Delivery,

as I said expect a wallet 'ding' or 5

I also was sharing the costs with Mr Warne, (so his vapour build status does look a tad now at risk ), interestingly we both indepently picked the same stylee and the same option too of the new T system

Once the wheels were delivered I was desperate to find out :

• What was the quality like ?
  
• Where they EXACTLY what I ordered (as measurements .....esp backspace) was cruical ?
  
• Where they worth the money ?
  

The UPS Man came ..........grunted delivered and left ..............(are all UK delivery companies as bad as each other )

I ripped open a box - and viewed the qulaity.............was it OK ?....................................................................... NO

It was more than 'Ok', ........the qulaity was bl**dy amazing Laser cut maybe but my gawd the quality and accuracy

So I decided to pull the boxes apart and 'fit some tyres'.

The double Internal locking system works on the lines as follows :

You have what is esssentially a "Split" rim,

this is a LR rim of a size which is in 2 parts, split down the centre where it bolts to the Hub.

As well as this you have a "Donut" this is a platic insert which,

when fitted and the 2 parts of the split rim bolted up (with 32 3.8 unf bolts) means the insert exports

pressure to both of the internal sides of the bead and jams then against both the inside AND outside beads of the rim via the tyre from the inside, and then the D Shaped tube adjusts the internal pressure for the footprint etc and have the tyre still clamped to the rim.

Airing down adds to grip and footprint, and low pressure of 5-8 psi can be run if wanted,

I will prob stick to 12psi to give the sidewalls more life expectancy ...........cos I'm broke at the mo now

So some pics :

Each of the wheels came very very well packaged -

the USA can show the UK and thing or 2 whwen it comes to customer service and qulaity.....

Opening the boxes showed the wheels clamped togther basically with a couple of bolts minues the 'extras'

This then shows the inner and outer split rim and he "Donut" and held together with a couple of bolts.

This then is the inner part the outer part and the donut in place - straight out of the box :

Undoing the 2x bolts allows the outer part of the rim to be lifted away

Note at the edge the O ring groove, all wheels are suppiled with what is probably the biggest O ring you'll ever see (see pic !) !

The inner and outer are made as such that they ONLY go together one way (at least with this design) each piece is 6mm Steel, each piece is pressed for strength look very very strong when lined up :

The Inner and Outer seperated from the donut :

And the donut itself - a Hard semi flexiable round donut with flanged edges (Oooer Missus)

The Nuts Bolts and D Tubes and the 2x special tools (valve inserter and Valve puller / Guidy thingy come in another box, linned up it all starts to fill the floor I think its a nice touch and smacks of quality that the 2 tools are included in the package ?

The comes the tricky part - donut and the D Tube !

If you think about this the donut presses on the inside edges of the beads of the tyre - this means in simple terms the donut is BIGGER Than the ID space in the tyre, its a piggie to get in to place. I huffed and puffed for about 10 mins on the 1st tyre assembley till I got it, there is a knack, as to if this is the ONLY way to do it I have bno idea - there were no instructions at all !

Basically I sparyed some WD40 on the donut and angled it at 90 degrees to the tyre, then shoved it half way through then pivotted the donut and it simply poppeerd into the inside of the tyre THEN you have to get the Tube in place popping the valve through the hole and lining it all up then carefully feeding the top side of the split rim down and then bolting the whole lot together - a nightmare

Having now gotten the donut in the INNER part of the rim is placed on the floor, the O ring (greased) to keep it in place added, (this is to keep dirt and water from getting into the split rims) and then the tyre and donut gently placed over the inner part of the rim along with the tube as outlined above

Press as you might the gap between the iner and out parts of the rim will be giving you a big gap - be too rough - of life the assembley up and the O ring or the tube will get damaged or will come out (ask me how I know this ) The answer is to buy (as I did) longer bolts make sure they are 3/8UNF (as in this case) as the qualioty is such that nothing else will fit as more bolts get popped in)

With these longer bolts you can start to pull the 2 halfs together when you get to a point thats close enough I then shoved in 4x of the proper bolts washers and nuts and pulled the rim together closer still, removing the now not needed longer bolts, note closer not closed, the forces are huge here !

Having done this I added all the bolts washer and nuts loosely, and then tighten them up bit by bit, Once you have done this its a fairly simple matter of doing all 32 bolts per wheel up, I use a windy gun on a low setting then went round each nut and bolt by hand and checked the tighteness - once you have say 4-6 tightened up properly its easier to stand the tyre aeemble up and work on it that way

1st tyre took best part of an hour, but the time I did No4 about 20 mins, but I was knackered after playing with 4x tyres rims and near 200 nuts and bolts

The with a huge grin replace the mach 5s that have been good for years

Then repeat 4 more times

Anyway, time will tell, but hope this is of interest ?

I would be interested in Members thoughts here, was the "T" systenm worth the extra money ?

or should I have just gone for the standard system ?

The only downside I could see was a tube being beyond repair ?, ..........so hence why I bought extras

So, ....Stazworks DBL ?..... vs Staun Air System ?.... vs Stazworks the New DBL 'T' System ?

What do you think ?.....was it worth me spending the Extra on the new 'T' system ??

Discuss .................

Nige

[muddy]

Sound nice but where are the F pics!!!!!

Will we ever actualy find out how much these cost?

Will.

Ps. would you reccamned waxoiling these just incase any water (or kittys) get inside?

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Sound nice but where are the F pics!!!!!

Will we ever actualy find out how much these cost?

Will.

Ps. would you reccamned waxoiling these just incase any water (or kittys) get inside?

Kin Hell

Give me a chance having probs uploading the pics are a coming

Nige

[geoffbeaumont]

Oooh...dribble

Do you think they'd be overkill on a 300Tdi?

Nige - these don't appear to be up to your usual standards. The steel is clearly less than an inch thick?

[muddy]

OOOH! now i see B)

Rather splendid i must say, wonder if mr warne has his fitted yet

Will.

[Young bobtail Rhys]

WOW!!! Complex, unique and "kin" hard to fit by the looks of things But what a set of wheels there Nige Can't wait to see them in action.

Tell me, how much do they weigh each? I have just had some single beadlocks made on some 7x16 modulars, and they weigh 19kgs each complete.

Rhys

[dollythelw]

Nige the only reason John supplied you with the protoype T system is because I told him you could keep your mouth shut... it took ages to set that up..thanks mate

pm sent

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Fret ye not Jez, I had a E-mail today saying it was now "OK"

pm sent...call the doggie off

Nige

[Astro_Al]

Very interesting Nige. I need something for the Mog. Great post.

I guess its between these, a home grown version, and stauns. Looking at your 'Staun Cons' list, doesn't most of it evaporate? Cost? Surely less than the Stazzy option, so not a con? 'Pig to fit' - in your own words these were: 'a nightmare', so no difference? (I don't care, I'm just looking at the list). Stauns are also hugely lighter weight. So looking at the list, I guess it was a decision of the heart rather than the head? (I have to say my choice would be the same as yours, probably), or did the puncture-proof nature outweight the various plusses on the side of the Stauns?

Q's:

1. Did you use any powder or shot or anything to balance them?

2. I guess you don't want to give prices on here, but as a guide, would you say that the extra costs (shipping, duty & tax) roughly equate to the cost of the wheels themselves? (As a ballpark figure).

3. Sorry if I missed it, but why are the profiles of the cutouts different in each wheel half? In the 5th photo of your thread they are distinctly different. (I'm sure its not an error, I just wonder why?)

4. Ordering time?

5. What is the rough angle on the pressed centre?

6. How is the T-system any more puncture proof than a staun given that they are pretty similar things in pretty similar locations? (You cite 'can suffer from puncture' as a con for the Stauns, but its the same I guess, right? Except that if the T system punctures, you still have locked beads with the Staz beadlocks but not with the Stauns).

7. Can you give a rough indication of cost per corner (excluding 5th!)?

8. Mass of a fully setup wheel? (long shot!)

9. When I asked a DVLA guy, he told me beadlocks were no problem - just goes to show it all depends who you ask. (Was in a previous thread about beadlock legality in the Int forum).

For what its worth, since you ask, I think the T system was worth ordering, assuming the cost wasn't huge. The extra mass is negligible.

Anyone know how many tonnes it'd take to form a pressed centre in 6mm with the bend at the same radial point as these...?

Hope that didn't sound too negative. Great write up, very interesting. I'm sure they'll last for donkeys years.

Cheers, Al.

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Q's:

1. Did you use any powder or shot or anything to balance them?

Nope, just put them together, they appear to be made so damned well things seemed very balanced - no shaking I can detect (apart from my wallet still )

2. I guess you don't want to give prices on here, but as a guide, would you say that the extra costs (shipping, duty & tax) roughly equate to the cost of the wheels themselves? (As a ballpark figure).

I haven't actually worked out the exact costs yet, the shipping wasn't too bad a I had Wills set with mine so we split the freight costs, the import is VAT on the whole lot - thats goods and freight , when I get a mo I will work out true costs, but they will be much more than the Stauns, ...but definately less than double

3. Sorry if I missed it, but why are the profiles of the cutouts different in each wheel half? In the 5th photo of your thread they are distinctly different. (I'm sure its not an error, I just wonder why?)

I have no idea at all !

4. Ordering time?

Ordered just pre crimble - so take christmas out and around 10 weeks ish plus or minus

5. What is the rough angle on the pressed centre?

Not sure - bout the same as a std 8 spoke bend ?

6. How is the T-system any more puncture proof than a staun given that they are pretty similar things in pretty similar locations? (You cite 'can suffer from puncture' as a con for the Stauns, but its the same I guess, right? Except that if the T system punctures, you still have locked beads with the Staz beadlocks but not with the Stauns).

You've sort of got it above !...if the Staun 'lock tube' gets a puncture then you have had it

7. Can you give a rough indication of cost per corner (excluding 5th!)?

Nope....see Q2

8. Mass of a fully setup wheel? (long shot!)

No idea, bout the same as a Mach 5 plus a bit ?

9. When I asked a DVLA guy, he told me beadlocks were no problem - just goes to show it all depends who you ask. (Was in a previous thread about beadlock legality in the Int forum).

Mechanical clamping of a tyre a la Single beadlock is tech illegal for road use, thats what I have been told by 2x vosa when openly discussing with them, DBL are legal

For what its worth, since you ask, I think the T system was worth ordering, assuming the cost wasn't huge. The extra mass is negligible.

Anyone know how many tonnes it'd take to form a pressed centre in 6mm with the bend at the same radial point as these...?

Hope that didn't sound too negative. Great write up, very interesting. I'm sure they'll last for donkeys years.

Cheers, Al.

Nige

[FridgeFreezer]

Al - since they custom make them to pretty much any spec why are you worried about the centres? These new ones do look rather lovely, I may have to save up the pennies and order a set - Al if you want to join in and save some shipping let me know, I'll be able to afford them about the same time your build is ready for wheels and tyres

[Steve 90]

Nice bits of kit, Look very nicely made, just what ive come to expect from their reputation.

I too put tubes in because I kept loosing tyre's, then experienced problems with ripping valves off when spinning tyre's on rims (only a 200TDi so maybe it doesn't need huge BHP and torque). now beed locked and all is well.

Are you not worried about the "D" tube rubbing through with the ribs inside modern tubeless tyre's or dirt that may get trapped in there? Something we see quite a lot of even with good quality, thick tubes. I also like being tubeless as if you do get something through a tyre you can very quickly vulcanize a rats tail in the hole with everything still in situ and be on ya way rather than undoing all those bolts to change/repair a tube.

[will_warne]

Nige, nice article on the build up. Did you get the message from John about the update on the T system? Most of the other cars testing the system are running CTIS but on those that aren't there have been a couple of cases of the tube spinning in the rim and the valve disappearing (as quite often happens with tubed tyres running at low pressure). He's developed a retaining tag which he'll be sending out but, in the mean time, suggests you use a cable tie at the base of the stem

The rims look very nice BTW. I can't wait to pick mine up (Nige and I shared shipping as it cut the cost a little)

Will, you can't give a firm price as a lot depends on excahnge rate, how you ship them and options you choose. However, if you want all the bells and wistles you should budget on about £250 a corner. Not cheap but equally you get what you pay for.

[sheeppimp]

Al - since they custom make them to pretty much any spec why are you worried about the centres? These new ones do look rather lovely, I may have to save up the pennies and order a set - Al if you want to join in and save some shipping let me know, I'll be able to afford them about the same time your build is ready for wheels and tyres

oooh, since it's tuesday and all.

by then we'll all be driving hovercars

[dollythelw]

just dont put it on Pirate Nige.. seriously he will loose the plot then.

The US division of the HOFS mafia have a good system for freighting big things out of the US so moving wheels is no problem (we moved Wills, Niges, Mine and another forum members so far this year into the UK), as pointed out Stazworks will make anything in terms of backspacing, rim width, material spec, diameter, rock rings, cold roll rings, centre design (if you dont like one of his designs just draw up your own), colour (or colours), pressed centres or flat (for the sick). There are wheezes for "optimising" the vat and import duty bill and yes we know 'em.

weight wise they are not the lightest solution, strengthwise - they are tough as old boots.

Having used Stazworks for over two years now and having handled the orders for a fair number of others (thanks for the credit Nige.. ) Ive gotten to know John pretty well so I'd say the following is fair advice;

1) know all the dims you will need (PCD, stud diameter, centre bore diameter, taper angle for wheel nuts, back spacing, rim width, tyres to be run, bead thickness of tyres to be run) BEFORE you ring up. AFTER you've rung confirm it all with an email.

2) pick your design or draw one up yourself

3) Be Patient..... Johns a lovely guy but his lead times are "relaxed" and occassionally "slip"

4) have is private mobile number - sometimes its the only way to get what you need

Al - the backs are cut so they show through the fronts.. so when you have different colours you get to see it all, in the flesh they look a lot better than this pic makes out

You can balance them but given that your normally running comp tyres with wheels like this the wheels/tyre combo is too big to balance effectively or its just not a concern.

The bell design and the beadlock help negate T system failures from sidewall attack

[Astro_Al]

oooh, since it's tuesday and all...

Not only is it Tuesday, its April 1st. I think I should just log off until tomorrow...

Ta for the info Nige and Jez.

John - I'm not 'worried' about centres, I just wonder what it'd take to make a set... Especially if one had, say, a nice CNC plasma growing in a pot on the window sill... (I could use the rims I have and just re-centre them).

Cheers chaps. Al.

[smo]

Nice wheels, and an interesting "article" there Nige.

Personally i shall be going with Staun-air internal double beadlocks for mine....they can't be that hard to fit can they....

[Happyoldgit]

Nige the only reason John supplied you with the protoype T system is because I told him you could keep your mouth shut... it took ages to set that up..thanks mate

pm sent

With the above in mind are you really sure you are ok to post this here Nige?

PM sent.

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Defo its OK.

Jez didn't know that I had a 'green light' to go ahead, hence his post we had pm's last night on this !

Its definately OK - otherwise I wouldn't have posted

Nige

[Daan]

Nice wheels Nigel, but we need more info over the pennys! I am a bit surprised about you popping inner tubes, I ran 35" simex with thick tubes on modular rims since 2003, lowering pressures to as low as 12 PSI and no problems myself. I doubt you are putting more torque through the system, I run 4.75 diffs and have twisted a heavy duty shaft to 180° plastic deformation (as you saw) So I dont think exess torque is a problem because of your engine.

When you say road legal, are these wheels DOT approved? In which case I doubt that very much myself. The legality thing is a bit of a minefield and, as mentioned before, is open to interpretation. Most people in an official capacity dont actually know what a beadlock is. But I think the rules are pretty much clear cut: tyres need e-mark and wheels need DOT approval.

Oh, and how much?

Daan

[FridgeFreezer]

But I think the rules are pretty much clear cut: tyres need e-mark and wheels need DOT approval.

Just to confuse it - I have heard it said that equivalent ratings from other countries are also OK. Can't remember if that's from the SVA, MOT, VOSA or U.N.K.L.E though

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Daan

4.1 Diffs and I think the 1.4 TBox and the V8 now on all cylinders = mucho torqueo

I am about to work out the £s - ......pennies no, ...they don't come into it

I think these are DOT stamped on the insides of the rim, hang on I will go lookie now....

Ok

I'm back (done me knee in and am working from home - or is that hobbling at home )

They are stamped

Made in USA D.O.T CS&W and then th date

DOT mark does it for me Nothing on Mach5s at all

The legality is a grey area -

I was told by 2 sepearte VOSA inspectors that single beadlocks are illegal on road use, one also said that in fairness 99.9% of those in charge (guess MOT Police etc) won't know one anyway, but thats not the point for me. My Insurance compnay when they checked came back as said a resounding "NO", and they have always been hugely helpfull, and not refused any of the mods so far and I have them all declared. When I asked about DBL Staz they went away came back and said "Yep fine". My Simex are also E marked, one of the reasosn again I didn't fit boggers which I would have preferred

Does it for me

Nige

[dollythelw]

take the guts out and they are simply split rims. they function with or without the beadlocking bits and bobs, there's no sticky out bits (unlike external single beadlocks) and no need to modify the tyre with polishing off inner ribs to get a seal, theres no centering ritual involving goats teeth and chicken feet - you just bolt them together. The wheels integrity is mechanically retained by both the series of clamping bolts and the wheel nuts so if you loose those you may have more pressing concerns than "am I loosing air?" . Even if you grind the side of the wheel down as many rocks as you like you can still get them apart easily. It takes me 20 minutes, 1 cig and about 3 hobnobs per wheel based on 40x18 tyres and Portishead, If I put something loud and fast on the stereo I can do it quicker -its easy.

Daan prices are around $350 a piece, more if you want extra bells and whistles, less if you pair them down. import duty is around 4%, freight is dependant on the deal you get, vat is 17.5% on the sum of the purchase price, the freight cost and the import duty.

Nige - when have V8s made torque? buy diesel... FFS

[Astro_Al]

(done me knee in and am working from home...)

Damn - these things really ARE hard to fit!

My Simex are also E marked, one of the reasosn again I didn't fit boggers which I would have preferred

So intercos are not UK road legal? (Sorry for the OT, but I need some 40s or 42s for the Mog, so I'm looking at the options - cheapo big tyres options very welcome indeed!).

Ta, Al.

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Here yer go Al...

Bogger linky to Ruin Als day

NOT E Marked, Off Road use only Well, it is Tuesday after all

My understanding of this, and it is a bit odd answer I will grant you - rims should be DOT or E Marked, tyres MUST be E Marked and a DOT Marking on a tyre isn't enough. Sense ?...no....red tape - certainly - but thats how I have been advised. Simex are DOT & E Marked

Nige