Peaklander

There was recent discussion in this thread. Some do it by experienced 'feel', others with a suitable torque wrench. I did it with a spring balance, pulling at about 2.5Kg at the end of a measured-length torque wrench that was used just as a bar. Whatever way you do it, tighten the tensioner bolt properly!

I have looked at the Vibraction books but wow they are pricey. They sound perfect for specific routes though.I think we will need to sift through published Wikiloc routes, unless anyone on here has any others in the correct format that they wish to share. There are loads on Wikiloc but many have been published without comments, so you wouldn't know if they are good or bad. Also it's a bit early for the highest level routes, so that will possibly affect plans. Now, where's that shovel?

We have delayed our trip to Greece / Carpathians until the late summer and are now intending to wander south of Annecy all the way to the Med. @task recommended OsmAnd maps and we have this on an iPad and are now successfully using an old-ish Garmin Oregon 750 as the GPS source for it. I would like to find routes using tracks and older roads 'up high' in this border area and wish to import them as .gpx into OsmAnd. There are many available on Wikiloc and it's easy to get them across to the mapping, however I would much rather use recommended routes, if anyone in here has any to share - or if you can point me at a source. Thanks in advice.

Yes there is a relay. Look at the circuit I showed just a few posts up the thread.

We were saying that just the other day. Sister-in-law has bought a Range Rover Evoque and she would never refer to it as a Land Rover 😀 That's far removed from her image.

That app has a review score of 2.6 and the 1* reviews I read make it sound rather flaky.

Is the fuel gauge working OK? Just wondering about 0V / earth connections.

I previously used and will continue to use the newer idler and tensioner that don't have shoulders. The crank pulley does have shoulders. I don't think that using the earlier long bolt and front washer at the tensioner will compromise the alignment and will allow me better torque setting.

These are my notes from when I did mine, Tension on the belt can be achieved using a spring balance on the end of a bar or torque wrench set to high (so no click) Spec is 11Nm = 1.12 Kgm = 8.1 ft-ibs I used a bar at 435mm and pulled at 2.6Kg to achieve 1.1Kgm I just need to tighten the bolt properly.

The bolt torque is 45Nm according to my 300TDi overhaul manual, which is also the torque for the idler pulley nut. I think what must have happened in 2017 when I changed the belt for the first time in my ownership, is that I couldn't measure the torque as it's a hard to access cap head. I probably used a standard allen key with a ring spanner to provide some extra turn and maybe got it wrong. This time I will probably use the long bolt and slotted washer - as then I can use a torque wrench, although I think I now have some long hex mounted on 3/8" drive; I certainly didn't in 2017. I will use threadlock too.

In that case you could open circuit the two cables WB and BN , using a standard double pole switch, leaving the B cable connected.

Yes sorry I was just editing the post to say that when you replied.

@Retroanaconda can I just check with you again about the actual torque you use with this beam wrench. The specification for the belt is 11Nm / 1.1Kgm / 8 ft-lbs and your wrench has full scale at 21Kgm 120ft-lb so the desired torque would only use a tiny deflection on that wrench. Is that how you use it? I have had a problem with loss of tension at some point in the last six years so I need to be sure I am achieving the correct torque this time - EDIT: although I do recognise that the tension loss is at the bolt!

This is exactly where I am - I found, just in time, that this has happened to me during planned maintenance of my belt. I am very confused now, as I thought I had made an error in 2017, in not using a washer at the tensioner roller and also using a short cap head bolt. Now I have discovered the previous parts (that I thought I hadn't kept) and in there is a short bolt and no washer. So that's two belt fitments that have used this method. Sourcing what I think are the correct parts including ERR900, I now have a genuine washer that I find locates at the front of the roller, not the back and a long bolt to go with it. The previous assembly is therefore completely different to what these parts would produce, that is a roller supported at the front, rather than at the rear. So I think that I did use the correct parts. Those available on Turner's website are the short cap head (no washer) and not the long flanged bolt with washer. Is there a torque spec. for this small bolt or is it just very tight? Can anyone help? Turners can't advise on this (I asked).

That's it. I have had a little look but don't have much time right now and this came up https://web.archive.org/web/20170704111014/http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=90607&p=819314&sid=cec857ffc3ef68c75f489c72b8ac1893

I remember someone on here once posted a link to a site that stores all manner of old webpages from years ago. It surprised a lot of people, including me. I can't find any notes about it so this comment isn't too helpful - except that it means that those pages will be somewhere on a third party site - not just on a legacy LRO site.

Matt Savage 4x4 is half way between here and Paddocks and he is a Viair outlet. Just when I had arrived at the decision to fit a Viair 400C on my inner wing, with a smallish tank, having discounted the aircon pump idea, this thread pops up! @ped can you give me more info on the 300TDi solution - which compressor are you using and what bracket etc.?

Yes he made the recommendation.

I got these Falken tyres last year. They are no more noisy really than the BFG ATs that I had before but they were very competitively priced at about £130 each fitted. This was cheaper than supply only from some places. They have been good in snow and I recently found out that they are good in mud. They are very sure footed on wet roads too.

It’s nice that it works like that. Use a momentary switch and it’s one click to start the timer and a second to stop, if needed, before the timer completes the timed period.

We were at 2,560Kg last year with a full pretty vehicle - that's without me but with Mrs P (who's wouldn't have added much). The roof and rack add a bit to standard, the box has light stuff in it and the 20litre black / grey waste container is often empty and was at this point. There are only two front seats and the rest have been replaced by fridge, toilet, storage boxes etc.

They are in the box that is shows them at around 93C - so far so good.

I am thinking of adding one to my on-board spares. What do you mean by “well sealed”?

That is a nice conversion.😀 I'd like to clear-up a comment earlier where I said that the iPad I am trialling with OsmAND maps keeps dropping the GPS. It turns out that 1) wifi only iPads do not have GPS (I though newer ones do) and 2) it was accidentally tethered to my iPhone personal hotspot and was trying to use that as the GPS source. Today I used a Garmin Oregon 700 as source and the iPad worked perfectly.

I've had a look at OsmAND maps and subscribed for a year as it looks really good - thanks. I've got an iPad 9th Gen which I am going to pair with a handheld GPS as during local 'testing', the iPad constantly drops the signal from its own GPS. Someone locally is going to lend me a bluetooth Garmin so I can try this as the GPS source for the iPad. I am planning to buy a handheld anyway because we have been caught out when walking a couple of times, relying on poor maps or iPhones that really don't like it when there's no data signal. I am extending the RAM track we already use and also need to buy a mount for the iPad. Our iPhone and TomTom (not taking this anymore) use the B 1" ball but I'm thinking maybe a slightly heavier iPad would be better with C 1.5" but they are bulkier too. Did you go for 1" or 1.5" RAM balls?