Peaklander

I thought take-offs are new, or as good as, aren’t they?

Yes it looks a lot better. Don't forget that you can make that finer adjustment for the switch indicator unit using the clamp. That's in the earlier picture I sent.

I seem to remember some years ago the up-tick in broken springs was blamed on a change in the manufacturing process. That was by "Honest John" in the Saturday Daily Telegraph column. I think he said it was something to do with not finishing the ends off properly, allowing corrosion in where they sit at the bottom.

😀 Thanks. I didn't notice the flats on the gauge connection the first time and so I didn't apply enough effort to squeeze the olive, expecting magic instead. I'm pretty sure it's OK now and I have secured the Mud console to the dash now. Soon be driving again.

Much better!

Yes I’m aware of olives but I didn’t try at all hard to crush it. It may be 6mm or a 1/4”. If a 1/4” then the “no crush” insert for the pipe is not very tight. We will see.

It is 6mm and not 1/4". I tried a piece of 1/4" and the olive won't fit over it. So I tried harder with 6mm and it is tight now. There are a couple of flats for an 8mm open ender on the gauge so it's actually easy enough to tighten the union and squeeze the olive.

A very interesting write-up Fridge. Thanks. The URL text made me laugh too. As for GPS @Blanco, in our 110 we use a TomTom 5100 and set the max speed to whatever we want in order to get realistic journey times. There's easy selection of mon-motorway, fastest, eco routes. I don't pay for Traffic updates any more because of the free data across Europe that makes Google Maps / traffic so handy now. So we have the iPhones working in parallel but the TomTom screen is easy to glance.

Thanks guys. I’ll have a read.

Thanks - I know how to find them but I have just painted the pillar so I am trying to gauge the job. Also I am wondering if it will hammer out without damaging the pillar. That's why I was asking if you (or anyone?) has done this job on its own?

At the bottom where it clamps to the column, it doesn't look vertical. It seems to be holding the column a little twisted. Maybe that's it. You will need to slacken the clamps on the engine bay side as in Western's pic and that "anti-twist" stay would need to be released and corrected.

Thanks. Is it just one or two? Have you replaced it yourself without renewing the pillar and if so, does it fit inside the pillar without any trouble? I'm wondering about this one from YRM link as I would trust their engineering dimensions.

Have a look at the ign switch and check that the lower clamp is tight to the main part with no gaps. If so then check that the steering can be locked. If it can be then I’d agree that the column is twisted. For that to happen something has gone wrong at the anti-twist stay at the top. From your pics it does look a bit odd. It is cranked at both ends but even so...

Please go easy on me for asking this just when I have competed repairs to the footwells on both sides of my 110. 😱 Does anyone know, definitively, if the A pillar foot can be removed from the rest of the pillar without the need to drill out any spot welds? I know that it is a tight fit up inside the bottom of the pillar but if I can, I should probably replace one of them. I will support the bulkhead, remove the M12 bolt and then try to drive the old foot out. It all depends on how it is fixed in, if at all. Does anyone know for certain?! Thanks

I've had a look at mine. The assembly that has the switch levers on it has a locator on the clamp part that mates with the column and ensures it is square. It's at the 9 o'clock position. Final adjustment of the clamp to fix this will allow a bit of alignment. That's where the rest of the cowl (top and bottom) gets it's "squareness" from. I'll take a photo for you.

The position of the ignition switch is determined by the slot in the steering column into which the steering lock locates. Therefore the switch can only go onto the column in this one position. It can't be moved because of this and anyway it is in two pieces and the two bolts that join these pieces together should be "shear" bolts. These are ones where the head breaks off when they are tight. (security). The steering column is aligned by a bracket joining the top of the column with the top of the bulkhead (dashboard side). So I doubt that the column is rotated. Start at the bottom and remove the lower cowl. This is the one that has a single central screw as well as the four that screw up into the top cowl. Then you can move the inidcator, lights, wiper switch assembly up the column and off if necessary. You don't need to disconnect any harnesses. Be careful as there might be the immobiliser coil mounted around the ignition switch. You can pull this away from it if you want, again no need to disconnect. Then you can check alignment as you re-fit. and make sure that the bottom cowl is correctly fixed. It should be horizontal. This is done by that single central screw.

That's mounted the other way around on mine, with the clips at the engine side. I wonder if there's a "correct" way or if indeed it doesn't matter.

I have been distracted by a day of turf laying for daughter #1 today. It's better than the two sessions of serious sewer unblocking at daughter number #2 earlier in the week. When I say serious I mean it! So it's back on the main job tomorrow and I will try a bit more force Ian and if that doesn't work then I'll take Red90's advice and go up to imperial. Thanks both.

Ah so just a little bigger. That's frustrating.

Just raising this thread for some advice please Ian. I too bought a VDO boost gauge (just before Ian put one up for sale!) and I can't get the pipe to hold in the fitting at the back. I have the insert tube that is a good fit into 6mm O/D tube, the little olive that's a good fit over it, and the union. I have tightened but the union won't bite. Do I just need to put some more effort into it? As it's a gauge I am probably being a bit too careful. I presume that I have to deform the olive enough and I probably aren't... Thanks

Try not to get a dose of specification creep as I did. I started one footwell in January and it's still not back on the road yet. I may as well have SORNed it for a few months!

That looks very nice Neil. Compliments what's already a very nice truck!

You are having great weather for this and it's turned out beautiful!

To change the motor direction I think you would buy a specific three position switch that does the combination for you, swapping those bars over through a stop position.

They are referring to this banjo bolt mounted at the back of the pump. It’s in the dark part of the photo but you can see it under the throttle linkage. It takes a 17mm socket and has a flexible spill pipe from the cylinder head and a short rigid pipe that joins the return all the way back to the fuel tank.