Peaklander

If that vehicle is as good underneath as it appears to be on the outside and inside and if £12K sounds, to you, like a good starting point for negotiation, then can't you go and have a look? If 12K is out of budget then don't bother. I've seen a lot worse for not a lot less ?

Ha yes I see. I should have tried and not been so shy Thanks!

Thread revival I've finally looked at this again and bought a used VW 99 relay, plugged it in and it works! So I'm happy although I still wonder why the first two new relays didn't. Then I saw this thread in the Tech archive (how do you guys do those fancy links to other threads) and I moved my AMR2341 relay to the rear wiper. I followed the instructions in there from @nickwilliams and made the little loom to a suitable relay base. I replaced the resistor and got a 16s intermittent delay which is great. Thanks Nick for a great write-up. Finally, I replaced the wiper motor drive cable and the two wheel boxes and got a new pair of blades and all's good. I realised that the wheel boxes don't need to be replaced as long as you mark the spindle before pulling out the cable drive, as only a few teeth are in contact and they just need turning through 180. In fact I'm sure i've read about that too somewhere on here.

I believe they are 'ice and fire' style. Here's one, it's had a couple of costs of paint on it but still looks good. Upload is direct from phone so I hope it's not too big.

I have long ones on my 110CSW. Don't know the brand but they have rubber inserts all along and don't seem too sloppy. They make getting in / out very easy even for my 90 yr old Dad and 91 yr old Dad-in-Law ?

Glad someone asked, as all I did was wonder but didn't try to find out.

I'm not a buyer of new cars but I believe that almost all colours are now extra cost selections.

Are you sure? My MOT centre says that UJs are not part of the test.

I cut a pipe long enough to just clear the ceiling and only just managed to not break the 1/2" bar. As i said, I think that the pipe acted in part, down near the joint and so prevented some of the twist. Still it was a fingers out of the way moment as I pulled it down towards the nearside wing.

Dog inside tripping ultrasonic sensor (if you have one) Otherwise could be a dodgy door courtesy light switch perhaps or bonnet closed switch.

I've just had both mine off to try to get the grease to flow. It's still been quite a job to get it into each bearing. I'd almost given up with one uj and took it off to swap for the spare but it disassembled easily so without the caps I pushed fresh grease though and than put it back together to finish off. I think the lesson for me is grease more often and thereby don't let it congeal.

A live from lights shorting onto the fuel solenoid at the injection pump perhaps? How do you start it? Need the lights on then too?

Greased!

Don't know if it was the Shredded Wheat this morning but I thought I'd try to use this method even though I don't have a second pair of hands available. I pulled the engine round to a compression position and managed to hold a screwdriver into a tooth, wedging it on the compression by reaching up and pulling it round a tad with a rachet. Then marked the bolt head and pulled it by 45 deg on a 50cm 1/2" bar which started to bend near the knuckle. After that I put a piece of pipe over it and just managed to get to to 90 without the bar snapping. I think that as the pipe touched the bar at the joint it maybe took some of the turning force. Anyway it is now at 90. Thanks to everyone for helpful suggestions and guidance! Hi Monkie - thanks for your post too. Yes that's all I was thinking about! Hopefully anyone reading this in the future will get a prompt that they have to think about the task at the end!

Let me have a think and a wander to my local garage tomorrow. If either thinking or the garage doesn't work then Vulcan I will take you up on your kind offer - thank you very much.

Hi again, well you are correct in that I did know about the 90 deg but then I forgot as I was actually doing it. What a muppet. No excuses and thank you for checking and following up. Really - it's great. Litch yes I agree that the tool would be better - the point was that when I researched the whole job, I'd never seen anything that suggested that tightening would be harder to achieve than undoing. All my focus was on the latter. When I did realise that I have a problem, an internet search throws up several solutions - even just on this forum and hence the question. A crank tool is currently on eBay at £60 and it's not far away. I have exchanged messages with Sean F but he can't currently help. I'll take a fresh look tomorrow.

Well I seem to have done it with the handbrake. I first of all checked my torque wrench with a spring balance. 80 Nm is 8.2 Kg force over a metre. My wrench is 0.41metres so I set the handle, put it on a wheelnut as suggested by Troll Hunter and pulled to 20Kg (8.2 div 0.41) on the spring balance which is a reasonable pull with your fingers. It clicked there or thereabouts. Then I got the box into 4th with difflock and handbrake on to the limit. Put some light oil behind the bolt head and on the washer and it clicked just as the crank turned so that must be the clutch slipping. Oddly there wasn't much rotation before it did reach torque which I put down to the low friction. So thanks Cackshifter for that tip. I think I'm done and it's on with the rest of the jobs. Does the experience seem correct, bearing in mind it's a 300 not a 200 I was trying to torque-up thank goodness?

Yes that lubricant under the head sounds like a good tip, best not to have any friction. As for holding the crank, I guess I can try and see what torque I do manage to achieve. @muddy says using the brake / gearbox works. If it can't be taken up to spec and then the extra 90 deg then I'll have to find a tool. I sent the pm to @sean f too. Thanks for that@Mo Murphy

There are four bolt holes in the pulley but they are recessed so the tool needs to be quite deep at the end. Like having a piece of tube at the end to carry the bolts. That's why it's a bit more complex to make for a lightweight such as me ?

Yes I've read about using the ring gear but isn't there a risk of breaking it or am I getting mixed up and the risk is breaking the thing that's being pushed in? I suppose that the ring gear is about as tough as it gets...

Thanks Vulcan

OK this is getting better Thanks guys

HI, some time ago I bookmarked this site showing a body lift-off chassis replacement. I have just looked again and I see that i have used Google translate so I don't know how the link will work for anyone else but it's worth a look at the pics.

If people do grease by releasing the prop and doing it off the vehicle, how religiously do you replace the nuts on refit? Do you just have a supply of them and dip in each time?

Thanks Mo I'll give him a go. I can always try my local village garage - they've lent me bits and bobs in the past and maybe they have a locking tool.