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Peaklander

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Peaklander

  1. You just need to shop around. It’s weird really that for identical details, one insurer (broker) can’t obtain cover, another can and is pricey and another can and is cheaper.
  2. There’s a joint in the pipe just above the passenger door so I’d check that first.
  3. Fridge I'm really sorry but I totally forgot to look at your thread, in fact I have never looked at the Mk1 thread! Now I've got home I have showed my Wife and she's certainly interested, asking me why I haven't read it and shown her before Well that's giving me confidence. I will go for a heated screen, I now just need some feedback from anyone who can recommend a supplier. As I said at the top, I have wondered about these ones http://www.heatedwindscreen.com
  4. Yes that’s true. I have in the past changed rear quarters and alpine rubbers (they really were a fiddle as I tried to ensure that I’d got the seals cut long enough). When I get in front of the laptop I’ll have a surf for installers. By the way Fridge, completely OT, in t’amubulance, do you have access from cab into rear or do you have to go outside? Reason for asking is that SWMBO is angling towards a motorhome and whilst an ambulance fits the bill it might not if the access is as I suspect. I don’t want to move away from a Landrover if I can avoid😀
  5. Hmm I can see I’ll have to do two lots of research. One to see how it’s done and two to see if I can find an installer. I’m sure the professionals will do a perfect job but I suppose it will be expensive as their usual paymaster is an insurance company. I watched an A4 screen change a few years ago and it was slick.
  6. Yes it’s not the wiring it’s the sealing that worries me. On the website to which I linked, they stress that no moisture must get to the screen edges. Any thoughts on the make of screen?
  7. 1996 110 SW My windscreen has started to leak through the rubber seal along the bottom of the glass and I’ve started to chase the leak with rtv but it’s not working. Is replacing this glass seal a diy job or should I use the experts? As the glass isn’t broken there’s no insurance possibility. At the same time I thought maybe a heated screen would be a good upgrade. I wonder what experience there is with out there with these ones http://www.heatedwindscreen.com I’m thinking fit, quality and effectiveness of heating elements. As ever, any advice is gratefully received. Thanks
  8. I’ve used Sheffield Engineering Services for a small job and I’m sure their opinion is valuable. However IMHO, you can trust Turners with complete confidence.
  9. Nice to hear that it’s a straightforward cause and solution.
  10. They are great photos of a great trip. I've previously pointed at that route (Turkey into northern Iran) to my wife and said "one day"! They are very nice shots with plenty of "camping detail". Thank you for posting.
  11. I'm just thinking aloud here... is the cooling circuit supposed to have a breather? If so, then it is blocked and it isn't admitting air as things cool but if it is then presumably the hose can't handle the change in pressure (reduction) as things cool down (Pressure X Volume / Temperature) has to be equal. Sorry I don't know the answer to my own question but on a 300TDi is presume it is sealed as there's no conventional radiator cap (that would allow air).
  12. You'll need a selection of shims to be able to get to the correct combo.
  13. I bought a little spring scale on eBay. They are just a few £. If you do buy one just make sure that you pick one with a small range. Don't get a 50Kg span as then you definitely can't pull and hold whilst trying to tighten. Went I first did mine, I had no idea how sensitive the steering would be to this setting but I think as Bowie says, it's probably not that much!
  14. Well it might be a faulty alternator but you can check around a few other things first. Check that you don't have a slipping drive belt to the alternator (tension etc). Then electrically you can check the security of the connections on the back of the alternator and following the cables back to starter and/or battery. You are looking for good electrical contact so clean, bright and tight.
  15. Ok yes that makes sense. It was worth a mention IMHO ☺️ If I were you and I'd had that offer from Dave Ashcroft I would simply pickup the phone. You can describe exactly what you've got, what you can see and I'm sure he will know what's happened and have a solution.
  16. I think that the shaft might have worn away, not the casing. Have a look at these two pics. One is a new shaft I've snipped off a website and the other is yours.
  17. The supply at Devon4x4 is also from Britpart. However they are manufactured by Richards although that is a recent change. i asked them to confirm their advertised price for Marsland and they changed the price and the supplier but confirmed they buy through Britpart.
  18. I'd call Ashcroft now. It's a great offer of help. Don't despair. It'll become clear, whatever's going on.
  19. Glad it has resolved itself. Check the coolant level now the air is out. It may need a bit more in. I'm sorry to have talked 300 TDi. I have a one track mind.
  20. You might have an air lock. Refill first through the two filler plugs. One is on the radiator, start with this and then through the other on the thermostat housing. Only then top up in expansion bottle.
  21. You're obviously happy with what you saw at Shielder's stand at the show. Are there any differences in construction between theirs and the Richards or Marsland chassis?
  22. It turns out that they aren't supplying Marsland's. They source from Britpart and that supply originate from Richards. Also the price has changed. 😱
  23. Tanuki that's a great help, thanks. He'd said that he had seen the local garage remove a clip and check movement of something - and he had done the same later too. I thought it would be some mechanical actuator hence the wastegate reference. So we are talking about a vnt - I can at least read-up on that for interest. I'll go and see him and explain your advice.
  24. Hi all A mate has a 61 plate 2.4 Puma swb and tootles about in it pulling a small trailer. Recently though he needed to tow a heavy load. This was a double axle trailer with very long steel and ali poles. Now he says it was heavy but I don't think it was a heavy as more typical loads such as @reb78 towing his Disco or @Arjan towing massive roof parts! On a very long drive he was unable to reach any sort of cruising speed on the motorway. I think 30mph was the maximum. When he told me I was only able to say that it must be some sort of turbo boost issue that might have been there for the twelve months he's has the vehicle, only becoming apparent with a proper load to pull. I called in at a local garage and the disconnected the waste-gate and checked it operates. It was stiff but I can't find out if it was stuck open or not. For some reason he is hesitating taking it to a dealer but I don't know anything about these engines. Can I ask a few questions? 1. Do diagnostics reveal the cause of issues like this? 2. Is turbo boost pressure controlled by an ecu and therefore is the waste-gate also control-led by electronics? 3. Is the FIP also ecu controlled rather than receiving a boost signal from air pressure as on my 300TDi. 4. Would a boost gauge show really what's happening and if so what sort of input would one use? Presumably there's still a boost pressure that can be tapped into? Thanks guys for any help and yes, I think he should probably take it to a LR specialist.
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