Retroanaconda

It’s a drastic measure but if it comes to it you can cut the bolt tube down on the bulkhead foot to gain some more distance in the door gap. I had to do that on my 88” because an outrigger was welded on c. 10mm out.

Ultimately I guess it depends on the local authority - as towns and cities introduce their own low emissions rules they will decide what is and isn’t exempt, if anything. A reasonable assumption might be that vehicles in the historic tax class might be exempt as they are with the LEZ in London, but that would require consistency which is something I doubt we will get as these measure are rolled out.

There are two types of 200Tdi pump, the earlier type is common with the previous 2.5TD (19J) engine while the later one is unique to the 200Tdi. Engine number will help determine which yours should have, or some decent pics of the hose connections as they differ between the pipes. The fitment to the engine bracket is the same.

In the past I’ve dropped them onto a piece of ply with some rope attached and then just slid the unit out from underneath. I don’t remember needing to lift the car to do so but I might have had it on ramps/stands already. If you’ve got an engine crane just loop a stop round the front of the chassis and lift the whole car up if need be to get the box(es) out. The engine needs supporting somehow if removing the gearbox, though a 300 may tip different to a 200 (which tips back) owing to the different mount positions on the block.

Both mine are Marsland chassis so basically new LR/GKN ones. In any case if you need to make it a slot it’s easily done with a file.

String method in use on my 88” a few years back. Door was in place here but you can set the height without it. This ensures that the barrel shape lines up right down the vehicle from the bulkhead, through the door and onto the tub.

It’s slotted on all the ones I’ve seen, but hopefully you can work around that. To set the door gaps parallel you adjust the height of the front of the tub and the rake of the bulkhead. With the tub fixed at the back and the bulkhead fixed at the bottom draw a string line tight down the line of the bulge in the body side and across the same point on the bulkhead. This will allow you to set the height of the front of the tub to match the bulkhead. Then adjust the rake of the bulkhead to make it parallel with the tub, so that the door gap is the same at the bottom and top hinge points. The rest is done in the roof and screen.

This is a Land Rover forum, not a conspiracy theorist’s forum - please keep things on topic.

Just a bad photoshop I’m afraid. Other than Autocar mockups and some suggestions from LR people there has been nothing confirmed about a pickup version.

I think you’ve probably got a mount slightly off somewhere on your new chassis, not unheard of sadly. The chassis mount at the front of the seatbox should be slotted to allow fore/aft movement? The body overhanging the rear crossmember by 5-10mm is normal on later vehicles with the moveable rail, often on one side but not the other!

Propshaft tool plus rattle gun makes it a doddle Spanner to hold the head, just don’t overtighten them.

I presume the £50k came from the video - i.e. £40k plus vat so £48k. A new 110 commercial starts at £43k plus vat. It will be interesting to see what the Grenadier comes in at.

Yes, the video a few months back had their head of sales (or similar) saying they were pitching it around £35k starting price for commercials - not sure if that includes the VAT or not though. It looks good from a technical perspective, but they’ve got to do something about that hideous bumper and grille!

BFG AT will be ideal for your usage, they work excellent in everything other than deep thick mud. I’ve never noticed a reduction in fuel efficiency or any increase in noise between ‘road’ tyres or a good AT like the BFG, so they would be my recommendation. Available in 235/85/R16 as a standard size.

My battery box is the aluminium YRM one so one less piece of steel to worry about. That thread is good, apologies I didn’t find that in my search. Rather embarrassingly I even contributed to it

Some good ideas there, thanks. A lot of bits I’ve already got. But the radiator frame and top brackets will be added to the list. Current bumper is a bit crusty in places so I will replace that entirely.

I’ve got the below down for blasting and galvanising, anything else I’ve missed? I’m not planning to do the axle casings as it will mean I can get those built up while I’m waiting, and I’ve never had any rust problems with those. I was thinking perhaps the suspension arms? They are solid forged steel so I’d have thought not really susceptible to rust under normal conditions, plus I’d have to remove the galv in places to fit the bushes. Chassis Bulkhead Bulkhead to chassis brackets Seatbelt to chassis brackets Sill members Gearbox mounts Removable crossmember Tub cappings Tow bar Front slam panel & braces Bonnet frame

They’ll still get used as chisels by someone

I added another shelf down the other side of the building today. I’d originally elected not to put one there as I thought it would compromise the working space but actually there’s enough room, even with a 110 chassis propped up against the wall - and I’m running out of accessible storage. As the shelves are well above head height they don’t feel like they encroach on your space at all. I did make this one 300mm deep rather than 400 like the others though.

A house would be a much better use of the cash, and is at least less likely to depreciate. You can’t drive a house though

Ludicrous in the extreme and sadly will be the preserve of the wealthy, but I’d still have one if I could afford it

It’s the plastic trim on the A pillar, apparently some early ones were loose and rattle at speed. The temporary repair is foam tape placed underneath the trim piece to stop it rattling I believe, with a replacement piece being the full fix. The service action is in the system so the dealer should be aware of it.

All I could find from a quick Google was a Salisbury front propshaft priced at over £1,000 - so I’m inclined to agree with FridgeFreezer. Measure the distance between the flanges first and see if anything matches up. I think your best bet will end up being getting your existing propshaft shortened to suit the new axle.

Are you saying you have a Salisbury front axle/diff or a Rover one? A Salisbury front axle will need a shorter prop as the differential nose is longer. Not 60cm shorter though, do you mean 60mm perhaps?

My understanding is that they are a different profile. I have sets of both old and new doors and door cards in my spare room so can check at the weekend if needed? The later door cards are not too expensive I don’t think, about £50 each last time I looked, so might be worth getting something that fits.