Retroanaconda

Ah, seems it’s quite simple actually. 45mm studs here: https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/defender-discovery-wheel-stud-pack-of-5-studs-45mm/

They look like 39mm if this photo is correct: https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/97341/372/wheel_stud_knock_through_defender___range_rover_classic___discovery_1 I wasn’t aware of a 45mm stud. Ross - I presume that’s a Wolf/HD wheel in your photo?

Couldn’t see any soot, or not in a large quantity anyway. The nut was definitely loose though. Had a go at getting the studs out this morning - not going to happen without snapping them and all the pain & misery that brings. I’ll clean it up and put it back together with some assembly paste for now and then work on getting my spare manifold sorted for a swap if it develops a problem in the future. That one needs one of the bolt holes welding up and then re-drilling and tapping, but I’m not sure if I can weld it with my normal MIG.

Yes the studs are all the same (save the extra long ones you mention) but the early hubs are thicker. Stud protrusion is about 23mm on the early hubs compared to 25mm on the later ones. This gives full thread engagement on the later hubs but about a thread short on the early ones. There’s no issue with the later hubs as the thread is fully engaged and LR sold them in that guise, however I’m not sure whether they ever sold the Wolf/HD rim fitted to the early hub (pre-1994). Practically I and many others have run it like that for many years with no issue but it would be a case of personal comfort. In terms of extra thread length I would suggest if you add around 4/5mm to the standard length studs then that would put you roughly where you would like to be. Wolf/HD fitted to early hub with one thread short of full engagement: And fitted to later hub, with fully engaged thread: It’s worth also noting that not all wheel nuts are created equal - there are at least two depths as per below, though there’s only 1mm or so in it.

And an average speed of 116mph?

Thanks folks. I’ll see if I can get the studs out. Whats involved in refacing - can it be done with some wet and dry and a flat surface of does it need a machining operation?

The joint between the turbo and the exhaust manifold has clearly been blowing for some time - one of the nuts was seized in a slightly undone position. Got them all off with lots of head and plusgas, however there is some degradation of the manifold flange surface - visible top left in the photo below. Will this have a problem sealing again do we think? The gasket (metal type) has a raised section that runs just around the central aperture which I presume does the actual dealing?

Some updated pricing indications from Ineos below, looks like it will be about the same as the Defender. I’m sure a lower figure was quoted by their head of sales last year at the Hampton Court event, but can’t find the video now.

As long as they’re nice and tight (a big grunt on a decent sized ratchet) I don’t think it’s a particularly critical figure.

I’ve got some repairs to do to my tub, a new wing skin and some YRM repair sections to fit. As I don’t have a spot welder my intention is to use adhesive to attach the panels where the factory spot welds would have been, on the understanding that it’s structurally at least as strong if not more so. Any recommendations for adhesives to use?

They are legal - what you have raised doesn’t seem to be an issue in the UK. Yes you could argue that only the Marsland one is ‘original’ as it is made by GKN in the same way as the one from Land Rover, but in practice all aftermarket chassis appear to be accepted without issue. Whatever you do don’t try and preempt any inspection etc. by getting in touch with the DVLA (or DVA in NI) and telling them about the replacement chassis - this can lead to a world of pain if they get the wrong end of the stick. So long as you’re using a brand new one and can prove it if ever needed, there is no need to tell them you’ve swapped a chassis any more than if you’ve swapped a set of brake pads. Having used several types my recommendation would be for the Marsland one, they are worth the extra cost.

You’re probably right, there was a few other suspension changes for 2002MY so that would make sense. I’ve never had anything quite that new!

Only from 2005 (ish) onwards, earlier Td5s used the normal Salisbury axle so if any of those had ABS there must be bits available. Thinking about it I’m pretty sure the stub axles I last bought for my 110 rear axle had the cutout in for the ABS sensor.

Indeed. The 3-bolt and 4-bolt boxes are both Adwest, while the 6-bolt is Gemmer - the spline form differs between the manufacturers.

Morning all The flywheel on my 200Tdi has some heat marking and I’d like to get it resurfaced. The workshop manual says this can be done so long as the thickness is not reduced beyond 36.96mm. Problem is I’ve measured it up and it’s only about 35.90mm at present. Now I’m pretty confident that it’s the original and that it hasn’t been off the engine before and some Googling suggests others have found their original flywheels below the manual’s ‘minimum’ as well as brand new ones off the shelf, which implies that the manual is wrong. Can anyone see an issue with having this done? I presume that there will be no issue with clutch operation as the Tdi uses a fully flat flywheel and the clutch cover plate mounts to the same surface as the friction plate runs on, so if 0.5mm was taken off then the clutch release bearing would take up the difference in its movement.

That’s fair enough, I haven’t driven it in slippery mud yet and I can imagine that there will be more wheelspin there, as indeed there needs to be. On balance I too prefer to drive off road the ‘old fashioned’ way and on the road I do not like the various driver assistance safety features of the new car. If it was available without these and with a manual gearbox I would have opted for that spec - though I have to admit that the autobox is growing on me!

I don’t think so. Climbing a steep and loose rocky track a few weeks ago there was no scrabbling or loss of momentum while the TC did its thing, it just went up as normal. Having the rear and centre diffs locked up helps a great deal with that of course. It felt very composed indeed.

There were county hard tops, but yours is clearly a station wagon as defined by the build VIN.

I’m sure I’ve seen somewhere solid nuts for sale, that would be the proper cure though no doubt expensive.

Price outright is not an issue so much these days as most cars are bought through leases, all that matters is the monthly payment. Plus in the future a lot of people will move away from ownership entirely towards rental models.

BFG All Terrain KO2 would be my suggestion - in 235/85/R16 for good handling and performance off road or in 265/75/R16 to look cool in Tesco’s car park. Mud terrains are only necessary if you are driving in mud a lot in my opinion as the impact to noise/mpg can be considerable compared to a good AT tyre. Of the mud terrain options though the BFG KM3 are probably among the best and not too bad on the road.

Side hinged would be simple to do, but they do still require a frame to close into so there will be something at the top, though this could be fairly minimal in terms of depth and impact to headroom. Given you’ve got good overhead space at the lintel I would look at a roller or sectional door. If you can do without the slight gain in floor length then you can set it behind the pillar returns and maximise width/height. @FridgeFreezerhas a good thread somewhere with details of a sectional door going into his garage.

Some of it will be in the shafts and drive members rather than the diff.

What vehicle?

Buzzweld CIO which didn’t fare well - not enough thickness, needs more coats than it says. Will be getting it powdercoated soon for the second time around.