Kurt

Mudstuff currently fitted to mine by the previous owner. As you can see there has not been much in the way of switches , radio , etc fitted by myself but it does cover a hole that has been butchered in the lower dash panel well. So doing a job of sorts. Must admit i do quite like the raptor engineering one as posted above.

More specifically 90 td5 mudflaps and brackets - will they fit 300tdi chassis? cheers 😊

Merry Christmas to you too! 😎

Used 11nm on mine with no ill effect. I believe the revision of the torque figure is to stop the belt from pulling the injector pump pulley out of line and causing belt wander.

Shut my recently rebuilt passenger door shut yesterdarday and heard the faint ping of a small screw hitting the inside of the bottom of the door now the lock is inoperative. Job for today. Oh the joys....

Do parts described as oem mean anything anymore? I have had injector studs stretch and snap far below the required torque. Same recently , and far more worrying , with swivel to axle bolts , Vented fuel cap with no ventilation the list goes on..... all described as oem???

As above is the screen located in the right groove? Recently fitted a new screen in my own using a ( shock horror! ) Britpart seal and it fitted perfectly.

Sorry that is meant to be unipump not unipart

Noticed my 300tdi has has a britpart pump fitted by a previous owner and have owned the car for nearly 5 years. Works fine but maybe i am just lucky. Other than that try googling unipart 300tdi vac pumps have heard good things about them.

Blocked crankcase breather? Any exhaust smoke? If so what colour?

Rebuilding mine at the moment and my frame to bulkhead has a bit of a gap but only at the ends? I might have to pack a bit of butyl in there. I used roof and gutter sealant on my roof to frame after fitting a new seal.

Wondering if anybody has any experience of using it on the engine facing side of the bonnet and will it be ok? It is the hard protective wax 4941im intending on using. On the can it says it is resistant to spray painting oven temps.

Wondering if this could be caused by a sticking caliper piston?

Had something similar with mine. Turned out to be the ignition switch in the end.

Was going to chime in with a suggestion of Eldro Dum Dum but a quick google search points to it being no longer available....

Thank you Western that explains quite nicely.

Best ( easiest ) way to disconnect the linkages from the transfer box (lt230/r380) on my defender? Have looked in the lr workshop manual but that only deals with the stripdown and rebuild of an already removed unit.... any help much appreciated.

Heard good things about the unipump vac pumps. Cheaper than a Wabco one also. Search err3539 unipump on google.

G-Mack, Couple of things I have done over the last few days... 1. disconnected my snorkel from filter housing to see if this made any difference to the booming issue my engine has been suffering from. booming still remained though positive air pressure at filter housing was greatly reduced at blanking point on filter housing. Good strong vacuum at air intake on filter housing where the snorkel pipework previously connected. Booming at load however still remained! 2. Advanced pump timing.This one was done to hopefully cure some ( not to bad in all honesty ) white smoke on cold start that had become apparent recently. Used a 9mm steel pin in pump with pulley hard clockwise upon tightening. previously had used a 9.5mm pin which came with my timing kit when I did the belt. Result? No more ( or very little ) white smoke on cold start and interestingly the booming noise under load now ceases to exist! Also pulling a lot better. Maybe worth a check on yours if only to eliminate as its such an easy thing to check/adjust.

G-mack, With your hand over the air cleaner does the backpressure disappear when rev'd from idle like mine ( have no rev counter but guessing an increase of around 500 revs ) ?

I did wonder if a leak/crack between the turbo housings could be behind this? But then again , as I posted above , I cannot detect anything at turbo when inlet is removed?

No cannot detect it at inlet manifold with pipe disconnected. Neither with intake disconnected from turbo?

^ My exhaust/turbo appears fine. On second manifold gasket at the moment correctly torqued up with clean mating surfaces. Just thinking out aloud here but could this be a symptom of a worn camshaft/bearings? I am imagining valves not opening properly at the correct time could somehow cause this backpressure in the inlet manifold as those with a snapped rocker shaft may have found as suggested earlier in this thread?

Yep thats was i resorted to this time around. Was a bit of a faff lugging the compressor about but i wasnt about to take anymore chances. And no the booming remains!

I know.... i cringed when i realised my error. Think i must of been suffering brain freeze from the weather when i did it.that and battling the fading light.