Sharp

I've been chasing leaks since I got mine, it doesn't leak from normal rain if it's parked on the flat but it came in for the first time in a few weeks the other day when the rain was very heavy and my foot got a dripping. You have to hand it to LR it doesn't matter where the water comes in, it always seems to drip off the check strap directly onto where your foot sits on the accellarator. Sometimes I'll park it on a slope or the wind will be in just the right direction to push it in somehow and it's back to the drawing board. It's really frustrating. I went at it the other way round to what's been suggested in the end, although I did try to find the source with a hose at first. The hose suggested it was the vents or the window hinges so I made some new vent seals and sealed the hinges up but it still came in. In the end I bought a tube of sealant and pretty much sealed everything in the water ingress manual and then some other places that looked like it might be worth it. Took about half a day. Next plan is going around the front door seals, replacing the taped/dumdumed corners and trying to crimp it on a bit tighter. I saw a video of someone extending the bonnet gutter so the run off went out across the wing instead of trickling down the bulk head so I'll try that as well. If you have access to a smoke machine you can trace leaks by having the blowers on instide then with all the doors shut move the smoke machine nozzle around the outside, if you see the smoke disturbed by air pushing it away from the landy then you've found your leak.

Thanks all, if it's 7/16th I should be able to pick something up on Monday. Cheers for the generous offer western, hopefully I should be able to get hold of one locally but the offer is apreciated.

I'm struggling to find the right bolt size for the 2nd row seat belt mounts on a 1998 110 csw. Unfortunately I snapped the head off one of the bolts when I was trying to remove them. Chopped the plate off and managed to get the stump of bolt out and reweld the plate back on but I can't find the right size of bolt to replace it. It's pitch is 1.25 and it's just shy of 11mm wide. I ran a M10 1.25 tap through it and it was loose going in, but an m12 is too big. Do M11 bolts exist, or is it an imperial fitting?

Good luck. Would be interested to know how you get on with the dumb irons, somehow mine got through the last MOT without any mention of them but I'll have to get them tidied up a bit before the winter.

I ordered a bearmach one this morning and it looked like it had metal sections at either end

Thanks for everyone's replies, there's loads to go on there. Exhaust manifold gasket, cyclone breather, rocker cover gasket, fuel return lines, oil breather pipe and the dipstick. I've got a week off next week with the intention of stripping the inside out, sealing a few leaks and insulating so will hopefully have a bit of time to clean the engine bay up and see how it goes from there. I'll try the o-ring for the cyclone breather and hopefully that at least stems the flow to something a bit more reasonable! Thanks

I did this last year on a 1998 110 CSW and getting at the spot welds was a nightmare. At the time I remember thinking I wish I'd done it like reb suggests and cut and welded below the join but it probably looks better with the whole piece in now that I've done it that way. I never thought about taking the rest of the panel off but that would certainly make it easier. I bought some spot weld drill bits, in hindsight I wish I'd got the ones that look like a mini hole cutter as I suspect these would work better at an angle than the ones I got. A dremel with a flexble extension and a pack of cutting discs came in handy, I ended up chopping some of the tabs mostly off and welding to the stump that was left. Even if you take the panel off the ones at the back (i.e. facing diagonally down towards the ground) will be difficult to get access to unless you chop an access hole to get to it. I had a lot of trouble lining the panels up, i think I riveted the two sections together to mark up and then split them again to reassemble and it still ended up being off so I ground the edge down flush and redrilled the holes: This was mine all finished, unfortunately I ended up stripping all the paint off because it was such a bad match and I've never found anything to repaint it with again. Damn metallics

I'm finally going to tackle the oil leaks which are making a mess of the engine bay and wondered if anyone had any advice on where to start or some common culprits. 1998 300tdi 110 CSW. Few pictures... P.S. for the smart Alecs, the oil caps off to remove the cover!

Thanks for your replies, can't see anything obviously loose with the dipstick and it's still reading low. I think I'll just mistrust it for now and leave it knowing the correct amount is in. It's quite a leaky engine, I wonder if it's suffered from being over filled in the past.

I understand that the oil capacity for my 300tdi is 6.65ltrs (5.8 ltrs for the engine and 0.85 ltrs for the filter). After changing my oil I've got just under 3 ltrs left out of 2x 5ltr bottles and my dipstick is reading just below the low level. Any ideas why that might be? Not sure whether to mistrust the dipstick or keep topping it up till it reaches the correct level. It's a 1998 110.

Thanks for your replies. Haven't had any problems since but it sounds like I'm going to need a new starter at some point.

Had an issue yesterday evening and wondered if anyone had any idea what it was. I'd driven back from work and she'd been sitting for about an hour when I got in to start it again. Noticed an electrical whining noise as the engine was running but thought it was someone strimming, also the temp gauge was about at about a third even as I just started her up. Drove for a few minutes and realised the noise was following me so pulled in and stopped the engine, noise kept going. Under the bonnet the noise was coming from the turbo area and there was some smoke coming from there, the engine felt overly hot and she's a bit oily up top so that could be the source of the smoke. Tried turning the key and got nothing at all, disconnected the battery then reconnected it and all now appears fine. Anyone know what it could be? 300tdi 1998 110csw. https://youtu.be/K8qVTufOGBI

No washers on mine when I changed them, but then again I have recently developed belt squeel as well after replacing a number of belt driven components. I "fixed" with belt dressing in the end as I was at a loss to what it was and I didn't want to go replacing parts I'd just replaced and I'm reasonably confident that all the pullys are running fine. I've had misalignment on a previous car and it was quite obvious just looking at it while the belt was running that it wasn't quite true.

Thanks for the replies, I don't have anything to lose taking a bit of sand paper to the side of the belt but I might end up going down the line of oneandtwo, my alternator was dayco and just had a look back at the waterpump I bought and it's airtex. Can't find where I ordered the tensioner from. I though the fan pulley wasn't replaceable without changing the whole cover?

Apologies for bringing up an old topic but I'm struggling to get rid of my belt squeel and I'd rather not stick a penny behind the pully if I can help it. I've had a read through all the belt squeel threads and although I'm not totally clear I have got the impression that the penny trick helps to straighten up the tentioner pully when age takes it's toll on the bearing and it slips out of alignment. I wondered if anyone could explain if I've read that correct because I have a new tentioner on so I presume that "fix" shouldn't be necessary. I would really like to get it sorted properly anyway. After my P-gasket went I've put on a new tentioner, water pump, alternator, LR belt. It never used to squeel but about a month after replacing parts the squeel developed. I gave all the pullys a good clean with a wire brush when I changed it. The noise is a lot worse after it's been wet weather or it's been sat for a few days, I drove through a puddle last night which splashed up and it was squeeling like a pig after that. The worst it has been was while I was bleeding air out of the coolant system after fitting a heater and coolant got on the belt Does anyone have any suggestions about what the next thing to try might be? I can only do my best by eye but to me everything looks fine, the pullys don't strike me as being loose or abnormal in any way and everything seems to line up, the belt sits true in the pullys and it doesnt look to have worn unevenly. I can't work out which part of the system is causing the squeel by sound. If I spray water on the belt it temporarily stops it immediately, regardless of where i direct the spray.

I got the below about a year ago and I've been really impressed. Had wanted one for a while after deciding it would be about the same price as making a decent set of long jump leads. I used it as a sole means of starting a 2.5ltr petrol for about a week with a completely dead battery and it didn't struggle at all. Dead easy to use, put the plug in and clip to the battery and away you go. Supposedly it's big enough to start 8 litre diesels 60 times on one charge...I doubt that but it's nice knowing it's a bit over specc'd for what I would use it for. They all come with various charing ports for phones and stuff and the obligatory flashlight built into the body. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07125GSZQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice work!

I use a clarke 151en, was about £250 iirc. It's in the amateur machine camp and you can tell but it does everything I need and having read a lot of reviews before buying I never came across any trouble with the torches - just uses a standard euro torch and the parts are all easy to get hold of if you bugger it. I will get a better liner for it when that fails for sure. It will weld 0.8 up to 4mm without any trouble but the wsf is a bit sensitive, apart from that it's been fine. Realistically if you're looking away from the clarke/sealy type machines you're getting into the pro stuff. If you want an equivelant in terms of power but a nicer machine you're probably looking at about double that kind of cost but you'll get a much nicer machine.

These are really comfortable and seal well: https://www.weldequip.com/fume-mask.htm

I replaced some of mine recently and all mine sank in flush into holes in the dash, I.e. they didn't have a flanged head (if that's the right word)

Wish I'd found something like that when I did the mid cross member on mine!

Cheers for everyone's help. I've now sent it back to the supplier for testing.

I don't think you'll need anything rated that high. I have 4 clarke stands at 3 ton each,, £40 a pair - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cax-6tbc-6-ton-axle-stands/ Not sure how much your defender weights but you'll never have to take the full weight of the vehicle on one axle stand so 3 tons is over kill for a normal defender but you still benefit from having more meaty axle stands with a wider foot print. If you've not noticed already then pairs of axle stands get advertised as (for example) 6 ton and it means 3 ton each. The jack that comes with the mercedes sprinter is good, I use that and I have an sgs high lift one as well. Think it's 2.5 ton. A rough rule of thumb is that a jack used to lift one corner should be rated to at least 1/3 of the weight of the vehicle.

Cheers everyone, I can't have been going more than 50. Luckily I was about a minute from work so didn't have far to drive. Got a local guy to put a new screen in for £85 but having watched him I wished I'd had a go myself, although I'm sure he made it look easy. Excess on insurance was £75 so I'd rather give the money to him. Out of interest I got a non-insurance quote from auto glass and they wanted £231!

Thanks Simon, I'll dismantle it at some point and see if I can see where the damage is but looks like it'll end up on ebay then. It has been cold in the workshop so possibly it could have frozen at some point. Thanks Red, those videos are from last week though.