paime

Saw this on Linkedin this morning: https://www.linkedin.com/posts/ineos-automotive_these-days-most-4x4-manufacturers-choose-activity-6646012320470433792-gIQt

As long as i don't have to learn a new programming language just to retract the rear caliper pistons then i'll be happy!

The idea of a touchscreen scares me a little bit but i'll reserve judgement. If they do go down that route then hopefully it has a robust cover on it otherwise i would have it smashed and covered in mud off the dogs in a heart beat.

To me it's not an issue of design rather an issue of calling it a Defender in the first place. I like the look of it, its just not in the Defender spirit of things.

Phone your local LR parts people and give them your reg, they have all the details on file.

I once had to replace the rear discs on Discovery 4. Everything went fine until i got to that little grub screw that keeps the disc on to the hub. Couldn't get the bu**er moving for love nor money and in the end had to use a breaker bar. I got overly excited when it started to move and nipped the soft pad of my thumb in the breaker bar hinge. I'm not an emotional man but i'll admit that i almost cried. Cue lots of blood and a 3 day break from mechanics until i had the patience to finish the job.

Starting with the simple (and cheap) option, have you tried Redex fuel additive and letting it run for a while? I had similar issues although perhaps not so pronounced and a couple of bottles of that stuff over a few full tanks solved everything. I also replaced the fuel cap as i was noticing a vacuum build up in the tank so not sure what helped the issue more.

How do EU regs fit with the philosophy of DIY mechanics? I know very little about ECUs, programming etc but that's why i love Defenders - you can do so much with them on your own with nothing more than basic tools and an excellent forum like this for guidance. Do EU rules essentially rule out that aspect?

Really like how they're building the suspense with the marketing campaign. Anyone else think the dig at monocoque chassis being used for SUVs rather than proper 4x4s is in reference to the latest "Defender"?

I think this video sums up the new Defender issue for me. He rips off a bit of steel on the way down the first slope and doesn't seem to be too concerned about it (who would be?!) but if that was to happen in a shiny new Defender you'd be looking at a fairly hefty repair bill. Not saying i'd have a new defender down that slope, of course, but it's a good comparison of where they've gone wrong with the new one in my eyes. It's not a utility vehicle, it's a luxury SUV and therefore isn't deserving of the Defender badge.

Sealing around the areas where the wheel arches meet the bulkhead is a good thing to do, same at the rear door threshold. When water gets under the matt is doesn't dry out and you get that damp smell coming through. My two spaniels add their own special fragrance on top of mine and it can be a bit overpowering in the summer!

Stonechip is the devi's work in my opinion and they covered everything they could in that stuff. Bare metal? Stonechip. Recent weld? Stonechip. Surface rust? Stonechip.

Everyday is a school day! Looking forward to giving that a go later on tonight.

This is hurting my brain a bit - how does it work? I always thought it was the diameter of the screw that forced the timber apart causing it to split?

Ooft that looks good and i like the box section idea to guard against warping. How long did it take you to do the strip-down of the body parts?

We can debate just how big or small a risk this is but surely there are plenty of defenders out there for sale without having to take a risk on this one?

Cheers Maverick. You're from up my way, where did you get your galvanising done? Any issues with warping afterwards?

Your fuel filter also has a drain plug on the bottom of it which you'll be able to extract water from. Might be an idea to open that up slowly to see what comes out. If it's water then keep going until you get to the diesel and then try again in a few days' time. Also, depending on the spec, you may have a water sensor at the fuel filter which will illuminate a warning on the dash if there is water in your fuel line. It plugs into the bottom of the fuel filter so you'll quickly know whether it's installed or not.

So i'm hearing work from the rear and make my way forwards. Do i hang the doors before i shim the bulkhead? Also, if i'm taking it apart panel by panel is that the time to replace the bulkhead or at least acid dip/repair/galvanise or is it still an almighty pain in the arse to do even with the roof/windscreen/wings off etc?

I'm about to start a chassis swap on my 90. The easiest way to do it would be to lift the body off in its entirety but i don't have the floor space or the ceiling height to do it. The other option is to break the body down and remove it piece by piece but i'm worried about panel alignment afterwards. Is there a technique/process to follow? How do i shim the bulkhead for example without knowing how it will affect everything else?

Gentrification in action!

isn't that a pheasant?

Plenty of good options on that website but how do the cappings work? Are they required or is more of an aesthetics thing?

These guys? http://rockymountainspares.co.uk/product/outback-door-tops/ From their home page it looks as though they're going out of business as well. Found these though: https://www.sp-4x4.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DEFCONV1&CartID=1

Watching this with interest. Door bottom repairs would be about £60 for both sides (ish) but also a lot of faffing around. I know someone with a 300tdi and wolf tops with lift up handles and it looks great. No window winders or regulators to rattle about in there either!