David Sparkes

Obviously a direct and informed answer on here will be best, but in terms of 'more local than 'addocks', if not exactly local, have you considered / had any experience of Davidson Mcmillan in Inverness? http://davidsonandmcmillan.co.uk/index.php Now you have created some pictures and text you could always try hawking an email round the more 'personal' suppliers. In that context, Beamends might give you information, but they don't do Mail Order, or The Landrover Orphanage have a good reputation in the Series 2 Club http://www.landroverorphanage.com/ P A Blanchards is another possibility. https://secure.pablanchard.co.uk/default.asp Otherwise it's a case of putting the adaptor (or complete Master Cylinder) in your pocket, with the Slave Cylinder in the other one, and trundling round Motor Factors in Aberdeen itself. Yes I know, that's easy for me to say, I'm a long way away :-) Good Luck.

First check the door hinges. Open the door very slightly, put your hand under the bottom edge, as far away from the hinges as possible, and lift the door by that hand, watch the hinges as you do so. If there is a lot of lift possible, and you can see it's caused by movement between the two halves of the hinges, then change the hinges. The upper one is likely to be worse than the lower, but change both. Someone else will be able to say whether you can fit just new hinge pins (I don't know), but I'd suggest changing the hinges anyway. It is possible that hinge wear is only part of the problem. The hinges may be moving on the door or the bulkhead as well. Only after the slop is taken out of the hinges can you start to sort out the alignment issue that is stopping the catch engaging properly with the latch (stricker) plate on the door frame. The lack of proper engagement may be just lack of alignment, but it could also be wear. You just have to look, and make a judgement. HTH

Unlikely, not without knowing what model and year of Range Rover it is. Have you done any checks at all? Even if only to check the fluid level? I assume you don't do your own maintenance. Put the problem in context, what's the history of the vehicle? How long have you owned it? If less than 12 months (say), do you have any idea of the quality of it's previous maintenance? Regards.

""exterior door handle" will be a better word for that part?" If you meant the handle on the outside of the passenger door, then yes "exterior door handle" is better than "copilot handcuff". At least for me, and I guess most English single language speakers! Thanks for accepting the humour, and good luck with solving the problems. Cheers.

Sorry, but I just did a double take when I saw that. Is this an export model specification, or can you handcuff passengers in UK models as well? Wait a moment - Copilot - perhaps it's a competition specification? I'm not knocking you Eduardo, it's just that some translations are funny :-)

The answer to this question is made more complicated by the fact that two different tanks are used, and the drain plugs are of different sizes. When doing a Pressure Test via the Drain plug (the standard Workshop Manual procedure). Up to VIN TA340460 the tank is ANR3645, use Service tool Adapter LRT-60-001. From VIN TA340461 the tank is ANR5135, use Service tool Adapter LRT-60-001 with adapter LRT-60-006. Note that the tanks on the Classic are different numbers again, Up to VIN SA654292 the tank is NTC9825 (this tank contains a Pressure Switch port), use Service tool Adapter LRT-60-001. From VIN SA654293 the tank is ANR3754 (no Pressure Switch port), use Service tool Adapter LRT-60-001 with adapter LRT-60-006. The thread sizes are not specified in the documentation I have. I haven't tried looking for the specifications of the Service Tools, nor have I tried looking in Microcat for the Drain Plugs to see if the thread is given in the description. Note that these are not plain plugs, they have a groove cut down most of the threads, so that when loosened a couple of turns the pressure is released in a gradual manner, to minimise the risk of the plug being ejected with 100 psi+ behind it.

I think you are on the right track in almost every specific you have mentioned. The door switches are only on the latch, not the door handle. With no dashboard indicator, it's highly likely the latch switch operation is not being seen. This might be a switch fault, or might be a disconnect of the mechanical linkage between the key switch in the door handle, and the latch. The surrounding circumstances indicate this is unlikely in your case. With no dashboard reaction to turning the key, any variations in the EKA procedure are academic, so I'm not bothering with those yet. As an aside "When opening or closing the doors or bonnet, all indicators flash for about 15 seconds". Did it do a 15 second flash sequence before you went on holiday? There are options as to how a vehicle lock is indicated, but that reads like an alarm sequence, not a 'vehicle is locked' indication. "I am not getting any beeps or sounds at all from the alarm system whilst doing this (some posts refer to hearing the mis-lock if you abort the procedure half way through etc, no matter what I do I hear nothing.)" This is worrying. Without going and testing mine specifically, and as a '95 it doesn't match yours exactly, I'm sure you should get some audible indication. Reading the ETM, under Alarm Triggered conditions the Hazard flashing should be matched by the Alarm Sounder sounding. As a 2001 has a battery backed sounder, it seems that battery is also flat. I don't recall if it will recharge, but I do read that if the Alarm is trigged, the sounder will sound for 4.5 minutes, so I suggest not worrying about a silent sounder at the moment. THe BBS may also be faulty, if you have never heard it before you might not have realised this. Do you have two fobs? Have you changed the batteries in the fobs?, If not, I suggest you don't. It's very easy to lose synchronisation when you change the fob batteries, and you cannot re-synchronise to a car with the alarm set. You have to switch the alarm off first. The EKA procedure should switch the alarm off, which is how you get out of this Catch 22. In a 2001 you will have friendly re-synchronisation anyway, activated when the key is placed in the ignition. On reading the ETM, my caution doesn't matter. By the vehicle battery going flat, or total disconnection, re-synchronisation is required. Friendly re-synchronisation will still work, if the fob is working, but needs the operation of the CDL (Central Door Locking) switch to initiate the procedure. Failure of the CDL is the conclusion we have anyway. Do I take it that you do not have the circuit diagrams? These are on the RAVE disc, which you can download as an image file from the Green Oval Downloads section. Note you then have to extract the files from the Image, normally by burning a CD via a suitable application, then run the RAVE application by running the RAVE.exe file. Section S3 of the ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual) is what you need. The door latch switches are routed via the door outstation, which you can see with the trim panel removed. All switches are shown Normally Open, and each switch sends an Earth when operated. This Earth comes from the Outstation, but you could substitute a local direct Earth if you wished. You should be safe measuring the switch operations with a multimeter, analogue or digital. Measuring the wires either at the latch, or at the outstation, the Earth is on the Black wire, CDL is on the Green/Red (GR), with the Key Switch on the Blue/Red (UR). Now it doesn't actually go through the circuit operation in the ETM, so what follows is my analysis. I would keep the window wound down during all these tests. You can even leave the passenger door open if you want to gain access while doing these tests. All switches are shown normally open, so with the door open, the unlock state is shown by Earth on the Black (obviously), and presumably no earth on the CDL (GR), and more definately no Earth on the Keyswitch (UR). Check that the state of the CDL changes when you close and lock the door. Irrespective of whether the CDL is earthed or not, I'd expect the Keyswitch (UR) to show an Earth whenever the key is fully turned in EITHER direction. Check both directions. Note that when you input the EKA, the BECM will know which way you turn the Keyswitch by monitoring the CDL. In one direction the CDL will be Earthed, in the other direction the CDL will not be Earthed. If it is a latch switch fault, it looks like the CDL is not showing the unlocked state, so whatever condition you find on the GR wire, reverse it. Note that 'if it is a latch switch fault'. I'm not ruling out a wiring fault outside the door. The door wiring goes through a wiring connector in the A pillar that corrodes, and the wiring under the carpet can also corrode, or transmit water to the BECM connectors, which then corrode. This corrosion is triggered by leaking heater O rings. Good Luck, I appreciate your perseverance so far, and desire to DIY rather than let the Dealers enjoy themselves.

Curious. I don't know what conclusion to make, but when I searched the Screwfix site for 'lead' I got no returns of products, merely the phrase "Sorry we do not currently sell "lead", but we may do so in the future. ..." Change the search term to 'Flashing' and there are 24 product returns, some of which are Flashing Tape in various width. These turn out to be self adhesive, but nowhere is the word lead mentioned. I don't know what conclusion to make, but I wonder if a product can only be called 'lead' if the metal is over a certain percentage by weight? Pure lead has safety connotations nowadays, even though it was once used for potable water pipes. I can understand a certain justification for 'adulterating' the lead with a harder but flexible modifier, which would help minimise the ease with which the surface can be wiped off onto fingers and nails, and from there onto food. Still, nothing to do with soundproofing, but with an internal diesel engine to live with in the future, it's a topic I may soon have an active interest in. Thanks.

I suspect, by mentioning the height and posting the photo, Just is looking to match the size and style, not use just 'any old' number punch. If no specific mention comes here, I suggest Just looks at the Series 3 club forum (I assume there is one) or the Series 2 Club Forum. I'm sure people on there will have addressed this 'problem' of having to stamp new numbers on a replacement dumb iron, and wanting the numbers to be the correct style. Be cautious of popping up as a 'newcomer' and asking about 'changing' a chassis number. A lot of people always tend to assume the worst. Good Luck.

My initial guess is the MAF needs cleaning or replacing. However, other people have more experience with the V8 38A than I do. It might help them if you say what year your car is, and what size the engine is, as there are two different Engine Management systems. People will tend to assume an automatic gearbox. HTH, one way or the other.

Sorry, but what's this "letting my 14-year old learn to drive at the same time"? It almost reads as though you intend to let them drive on the Public Highway (as all Green Lanes are, by definition, Public Highways). That can't be encouraged or condoned. Or are you looking for Pay and Play sites that both include gentle terrain, and allow unlicensed drivers? I don't know any of those. Perhaps I've just picked up a confused message, with mention of both the Roman Road, Stanage Edge, and "gentle play spaces". Regards.

I suspect that you need the wiring diagram from the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM), this is included, as well as the Workshop Manual, on the RAVE disc for the 38A, which is available 'free' as a 600ish MB Image File download from the Green Oval site. You then have to convert this to a playable CD, although the RAVE application will work faster if you copy all the files from the CD onto your hard drive. RAVE.exe starts the application. As you have probably found already, there are only two power wires to the motor, the polarity of these are reversed to drive the motor the other way IE Into or Out of low ratio. The other wires to the motor are from the position switch, these enable the ECU to know where the motor is, so it can decide whether to drive the motor forward or backward. I'm not saying you can't create a totally manual control, which I think is what you are intending, but I'm not quite sure how you will tell whether the gear is fully or partially engaged. You mention the original switch; should we conclude it is an car with a manual gearbox? This is a locking switch, so can be treated the same as a switch on an automatic gearboxed car. You are right to think the switches won't stand the current drawn by the motor, but neither will they do the polarity reversal that is required. There may be a relay already in existance that will do this reversal without shorting out the power feed, but I don't know exactly where to suggest. Vehicle Wiring Products perhaps, or a supplier to Kit Car builders. For the actual power source, pick up the existing source, which is probably fed to the Transfer box ECU via the BECM, but without tracing the diagrams I couldn't say exactly. HTH.

Looking at the Tech Specs page for that PC, they seem to offer various Operating System options, but I didn't check if this affected prices etc. Operating System Genuine Windows Vista® Ultimate Genuine Windows Vista® Business Genuine Windows Vista® Home Basic Genuine Windows Vista® Ultimate with XP Professional Downgrade Service Genuine Windows Vista® Business with XP Professional Downgrade Service Genuine Windows Vista® Home Premium I assume the XP downgrade is what you are looking for, but you'd have to follow the Learn More link for the detail. Alternatively, I'm sure someone could install XP for you, but that would be an off-list conversation. I can't comment on any of the other options, although I see lansalot has picked up on some of them. Regards.

Agreed, PROVIDING the screen will work well at the lower resolution. I have in mind that external flat screens have an 'optimum' resolution, move away from that and clarity is lost. I don't know if this limitation applies to modern laptop screens, which is why I mentioned it, and hoped for someone with the relevant knowledge / experience to speak up. Regards.

Just watching you go through the pain on this one, but wrt "have I missed something": Screen size has been mentioned before, 15" OK, 17" better, but what screen resolution are you working with at the moment? Possibly 1024 x 768, I think going up in numbers (1280 x 1024) is going to be bad news (in your circumstances), but wait for the specialists to comment. That Vostro is 17" WIDESCREEN, are you comfortable with the widescreen format? It's also a very fine resolution (1440 x 900 ), making everything 'small', which I don't think you want for viewing 'across the engine bay'. Have you checked your applications for Vista compatability? HTH

"The web is swamped with photos of 'pimp-mobiles' - but there's very little proper technical info that I can find" Over 900 topics, and over 11,000 posts in the Technical section of http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/ Any help? (I haven't read any of them!). Also http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=5 but I can accept that might be more bling. Other than that it might be a days subscription (ie, a short subscription) to the Global Technical Resource, and a big download session. Good Luck

Could be merged with thread? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=31845 Or at least cross referred, which this post does. Cheers

For this sort of demonstration set-up I'd suggest a bit more; the purpose of the exercise is to convince the Customer they are making a wise purchase, the more convinced they are the more they will spend. I'd like an oil pressure gauge, a boost gauge, and an ammeter wired to show alternator output (rather than the standard 'is the system balanced / how much is the battery charging / discharging?'. The fact that the ammeter is reading proves the voltage, and as said, the water temperature is probably immaterial. BTW, the boost gauge fitment doesn't imply an intercooler, although you might have to rig a mechanical hand to grab the linkage from the actuator to stop the bypass opening, otherwise you aren't going to get a significant amount of boost without a load on the engine. The ammeter output can be charging the battery, but you can add a load by adding as many headlight bulbs / units as you can be bothered to rig up. I appreciate this is building 'extra complication' into the engine stand, but the build effort is only there once, whereas the payback benefit is on every engine. Cheers.

If you don't get an appropriately helpful direct response to your question, two alternative sources to bookmark, for help with this and future questions. These are in NO order of priority, as I have no experience of the forums, merely know they exist. The other point is that, although it makes no practical difference to the answer in this case, people tend to respond better (or at all) if you say whereabouts, in what country, you are from. Look to put it in your profile on each forum you register with. Anyway, enough of the philosophy: http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=5 is an American site, but if it's like the 38A forum on the same site, it has an International readership. http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/ is, as the address implies, a UK based site, but I don't know the readership spread. Good Luck.

In this case, 'C drive' does mean ONLY the Root Directory, but also the C:\Windows Directory for a MCadmin or LRE folder. Also look for INI and DAT files that may be scattered about, not only in the Folders already mentioned, but also in the Windows \ System and Windows \ System32 folders. Personally, I'd leave Regedit trawling, not only for Microcat but also terms starting MC, until the simple folder searching (as mentioned) had been tried and shown to have failed. Even then I may well use a paid for Registry cleaner, that allegedly removes disconnected references, before poking with a blunt finger. But this is personal choice. What I do to my own PC, what I do to someone elses's PC, and what I recommend other people do to their own PC are three different grades of severity. Have fun, and Good Luck

Correct, the engine is a slightly revised version (the details are uncertain) of a BMW M51 engine. This was a well established design in BMW by 1995, when the 38A RR was introduced. Allegedly it was the most powerful (for its capacity) automotive diesel engine available. It's 6 cylinder design gave it inherent smooth running characteristics that were not approachable by any 4 cylinder competition. The cam is driven by chain. They do not normally need attention. 173,000 miles gives lots of opportunity for abuse, so nothing can be definate, in a positive sense. The vehicle is about 13 years old; what mileage did you expect? Properly maintained, regular oil and coolant changes, and leaks attended to, they will easily last longer than that. Expect the oil to be jet black, that's normal. How long have the last three owners held it in their care? The shorter the ownership span the greater the likelihood 'not to bother'. MPG, some people claim up to 30 mpg. This is excessively optimistic as an expectation. Regular short journeys of less than 10 miles should see you the top side of 20. Long motorway style journeys, cruising at 70 or below should get above 25 mpg. Regular use at 80 or above will see this drop. It is a much heavier vehicle than the car the engine was designed for, and the extra work has to be paid for somewhere. Accelerate gently, treat it as a mobile armchair from a club for old gentlemen, and it's a relaxing place to be, well worth the membership fee. It was a high end vehicle, expect parts to be expensive, occasionally you can be surprised at their low cost. If you try to run it on a shoestring, the string WILL snap. If you do decide to buy this, or another example, find the Green Oval site downloads page and collect the appropriate RAVE disc. This contains the full Workshop and Electrical Manuals. You may need assistance to convert the image file into a usable CD, or (as I recommend) a usable set of files on your hard drive. RAVE.exe starts the application rolling, and it uses it's own version of Adobe Reader, not whatever you have on your PC already. (PC, not Mac). This advice applies even if you do not intend to do your own maintenance. The knowledge from the Manuals helps you get the best deal from the maintainer, and helps to avoid you being ripped off. If you are going to ask questions you need to meet the answer half way, don't expect people to rewrite the manuals. Good Luck.

Thankyou kindly.

Not stirring, just in case someone gets that idea, but I found at the weekend I need to replace the rear crossmember on a 109. First time I will have tackled that sort of job, so I did a Search and started reading (and have already posted a query in the Defender Forum). I got to page 8 of the Search Results and found this thread: Paddocks 110 Rear Crossmember, Absolute rubbish It's a two pager, with a bit of heat, so I thought I'd start a new topic with a couple of points that are related. Now Paddocks is my local supplier, and I've found it very handy to have a Counter Hand with a comprehensive knowledge of parts, and happy to say 'Do you really want that, because ...". That Customer Service has been a very big plus. I accept that the quality of parts is buyer beware, and the road springs I've seen (for example) haven't looked too clever, but more on that later. In that thread in March 08 the price for the Defender 110 cross member with extensions was apparently £119.00 + VAT, and it's still that price today. Their current price for a Series Crossmember with extensions is £49.50 + VAT, (£58.16) Series crossmember without extensions, is £39.50 + VAT (£46.41). Is the difference because Series are easier to make than Defender 110s, or is there a bigger market for Defenders? But get this, I've just phoned Stratstone in Nottingham, and mentioned LR Classic Parts, which they sell. I specified a Series 2A 109" rear crossmember, they got the book out and offered to call me back, which they did in 5 minutes. Part Number NRC236, they didn't know if it was with or without extensions, £125.39 +VAT Retail makes £147.33. With my Allegiance Card (discounted parts and service prices for older vehicles) £133 including VAT. It's in stock at Land Rover, so a couple of days and I can pick it up. So, there's the difference, £58 (I need extensions), or £133 for the genuine item, where I might have to make my own extensions. Will the LR item be better, or am I paying for a name? Will the LR item be so good it will seem excessive to 'blank' it in? What would you do?? One difference for 'you' might be whether you are charging a Customer for your time. How many hours does £75.00 get? Could you slip in another job, with another profit margin, into those hours? Next comparison, same vehicle. The HD rear springs are completely shot, the OS has expanded so much that two clamp bolts have sheared. These are 8 leaf, part numbers 272967 and 272968. There is stock all over the place, but Paddocks is local and cheapest, £38.78 each, inclusive of VAT. Now I know the general quality of these is really suspect, whoever cuts the leaves to length doesn't know what a square cut is. Anything between 80 and 110 degrees will do. Disassemble the springs and each leaf has a different curve. Rebuild the spring and you can see air spaces between the leaves. Just occasionally a leaf in the middle of the pile will be a different thickness to the rest. I know LR had a Design Philosophy about mixing leaf thicknesses, but not in the middle of a pile, and not in one of a pair with the same part number. GME, who I know make their own springs, tell me they supply LR, and I've been to the foundry in Sheffield, will delivery a pair up from their Coventry foundry, for me to collect from Sheffield, £70.50 each, inclusive of VAT. The only others to declare their source is LR Direct, £65.07 OEM, £53.77 Britpart, that's each, inclusive of VAT and Delivery. So there you go, for an axle set, £77.56 from Paddocks, versus £130.14 / £141 from LR Direct / GME What would you do?? Cheers

Having seen the Tech Archive article on blanking a new rear crossmember, I saw that one of the original items to remain visible were the tubes for the jacking points. It seemed to me to be a 'good idea' to include some of those in the new cross member I've got to fit to a 109". The blanking idea seemed good anyway (thankyou Les) and what's wrong with a bit more welding? Having searched both on and off Forum, I haven't found the dimensions of the tubes, neither diameter or wall thickness, (although I did find plenty of adverts about adaptors to enable Hi-lifts to use the tubes). Can someone please supply the internal diameter, at least? I can always guess the wall thickness as 3 mm or more. The pictures in the threads I've saved give me the approximate locations - good enough for agriculture, as a farmer once wrote. Inspirational references found so far are: Strengthening a rear crossmember., Same for series and Defender Blanking a Rear crossmember/strengthening, By Les Henson Replacing a 110 crossmember, By Les Henson Looks good?, 110V8 rear crossmember Cheers

Only if the flow around the heater is always on, that is, there is no on/off tap in the heater circuit, AND there is no thermostat bypass circuit in the engine itself. No bypass circuit in the engine means the coolant HAS to go through the heater matrix before the thermostat opens. In very cold weather, with the heater fan on, the heat loss through the matrix is all the engine needs to keep cool. If the engine has it's own bypass circuit you have no chance of improved performance. A diesel puts less heat into the coolant than a petrol engine. In the extreme of the TD5 engined Discos this is why a fuel burning heater is an option, essential in colder climates, as there simply isn't enough heat from the engine to keep the car warm. I'd say all modern engines use full flow heaters, with no engine based thermostat bypass circuit. This gives the best heater performance available, and rapid engine warmup. The latter helps meet drive-by noise regulations, emission regulations, and fuel economy targets. Heater output is regulated by blending heated and unheated (or air conditioned) air. I suspect your heater matrix is internally clogged with carp, dropped out of the coolant due to the low flow rate. I can't just think of a good way of mechanically cleaning the inside of a curved tube heater matrix, so I'd start looking for Serck(?), or some other radiator specialist, and buy a new one. Sorry.