David Sparkes

Is that just on the rear springs, or the fronts as well? I thought the main chassis rails (between the front and rear springs) were deeper on the 1-ton, but I don't have any measurements to hand to support that. Cheers. BTW http://www.LRSeries.com do Heavy Duty Shocks for the 109" RTC4236, £12.58 +VAT each. Add £6.95 carriage +VAT to the complete order. These are Boge units 32-767-0. The RTC4442 are £8.64 +VAT each, and 253826 are £0.39 +VAT each. Have fun

The immediate answer is No, but am I right in understanding you have disconnected the FIP from the cam chain, and now need to put the FIP (or a new one) back on the engine? If I understand more I may be able to offer more helpful suggestions. Cheers.

Re the 'off the shelf core', for a deep shape like that I'd look for cores "about 180mm tall by 600mm" and ~50mm deep, using two, one behind the other, bridging them with the headers. Re the 'off the shelf' headers, have you asked Jeremy Fearn? The headers on my JJF supplied intercooler are certainly custom built. Note I've jumped from Radiator to Intercooler, but if an Ali core is readily available I expect he'd be able to make one, if he wanted to. Good Luck.

"In 1864 in America, ... Around the same time metric thread standards were being adopted in continental Europe with a number of different thread flank angles being adopted. For example the German Loewenherz had a thread flank angle of 53 degrees 8 minutes and the Swiss Thury thread an angle of 47.5 degrees. The standard international metric thread eventually evolved from German and French metric standards being based upon a 60 degree flank angle with flat crests and rounded roots. " "BA Thread Form: This thread was used for small diameter threads (below 0.25 inches diameter). The thread has radiused roots and crests and has a flank angle of 47 degrees and a half degrees. The thread size varies from BA number 23 (0.33 mm diameter with a pitch of 0.09 mm) to BA number 0 (6mm diameter with a pitch of 1 mm). Relative to the Whitworth thread the depth of the BA thread is smaller size for size. The thread form is now redundant and has been replaced by Unified and Metric threads." So, blame the Swiss :-) Information from pages on the site http://www.boltscience.com/index.htm?

You don't say which Series model you have. I see two part numbers quoted, on a Series 2 CD, 540354 for 'early' type gear change lever. FRC1387 for 'later' type gear change lever. Needless to say, the levers are NOT marked early and late, but rather 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder, sub-sectioned into Right and Left hand drive. Series 3 is just shown as FRC1387. I don't know if my S2 box is early or late, in this context, but I see I made one up, 15mm ID, 2.5mm Cross Section. I'll let you Google the part numbers. :-))

You ain't the only one. What year of car did the 300TDI come from? Does it have an ECU associated with it? Is the accelerator pedal connected mechanically to the pump (via a conventional cable)? Does this cable move a control lever on the pump, or an electrical throttle position switch (or potentiometer)?

In a previous thread you wanted to know which wire from the ignition switch should be attached to the stop solenoid, and we appeared to solve that query. In this thread you picture a unit which you call a 3 wire pump, but which is then identified as an "egr control potentiometer which you can un bolt and throw away". However, now you appear to be trying to connect the three wires somewhere, which is confusing if you have removed the EGR Control Potentiometer. You seem to be responding to Jim Attrill's advice to connect one wire, although he doesn't say which wire, or where he suggests you connect it to. I confess I was, and still am, confused by Jim's advice, so cannot build on his comment to offer further guidance. Stepping back, are you absolutely certain you have identified the stop solenoid, described by Raceface120 as "on the back of the pump where the 4 injector pipes come out"? If you have, how many terminals does this have? What colour wires have you connected? White - red trace Typically, a wire with this colour this is only live, with full 12 volts, when the ignition key is is the Start position. An example use will be from the Ignition switch to the starter solenoid, or a separate relay which will then feed power to the starter solenoid. (Basic White is unfused 12 volts, when the ignition is switched on). Black - purple trace Typically, a wire with this colour is at Earth potential, but when a switch is thrown, is connected to a unit with full 12 volts on the other side. An example will be an engine fan, or the relay controlling it. (Basic Black is a full Earth. Basic Purple is permanent 12 volts, but via a fuse). Brown - I don't think there is a trace on this one. (Basic Brown is full 12 volts, all the time. Originally with no fuse, although in more modern LRs it can be fed via a large (60 amp) fuse). Are these three wires in the main wiring loom, attached to the body, or do they form a short loom, attached to the EGR unit? Looking at the Defender 300TDi wiring diagram, there is only one 3 terminal device associated with the EGR, and the wires are Red/Blue, Red/Black, & Pink/Black. Searching the same diagram, there is no Black/Purple wire anywhere. Note this is a diagram for a 1995 on Defender. The conclusion is that it's likely the wires you have found are from the 1989 V8 CSW wiring loom, but I can't find Black/Purple in that wiring diagram either.

Wires have different colours for a reason. They enable those of us with the information to 'know' which wire goes where, or at least where we expect it to go. As well as telling us the colours of these wires, please tell us if they are part of the wiring associated with the V8, or part of the wiring associated with the 300TDi. Even if you don't know what they do, you must know whether you added them at the same time you added the engine. Naming wires. Some wires have one colour, in which case the name is easy. Somes wires have two colours (but never more than two). In this case there is a main colour and a stripe. The main colour comes first, the stripe colour comes second. This convention enables us to use the same colours twice, but in a different order. Thus we can differentiate between a White/Red wire (which goes to the small spade on the starter solenoid) and a Red/White wire (which goes to the lights in the instruments). So, tell us the colours of the wires that you have been applying 12 volts to in your last test. Secondly, do you have a test bulb that you can clip on a wire or terminal and show when 12 volts is on that wire? You must have something, as you could tell the difference between different wires coming from the ignition switch. Cheers.

When I first heard that one the subject was Skoda, so it's a one size fits all joke, depending who the joke teller is talking to. Besides, anyone who knew about Land Rovers would be surprised the HRW still worked. Sorry, perhaps that last comment doesn't help? :-)

Obviously some simultaneous writing of responses took place :-) It's worth checking if you can initiate a claim against ParcelForce, although I thought it was the sender who had to do this, in which case I can see a problem!! I don't have any experience with the Bosch 200TDi pump, so don't feel I can comment precisely. Have you thought of the Small Claims Court procedure? Again, not an instant response if you go down that route, but if you can write knowledgably about the process when emailing the sender it may be the lever that tips the balance. Also, if you haven't already done so, try offering (sending) your pictures to the seller. Cheers

I think what bluespanner is saying is that you have clearly established that the seller is not minded to take the unit back, refunding your money. You 'might' be able to get a professional fuel injection engineering firm to examine the faulty pump, and write a report which you can use with Paypal to convince them the item was clearly faulty, and get them to forcibly remove the money from the sellers account. This report needs to state that the leakage is due to wear, not impact damage. However, getting the report will cost you money, and Paypal will take a definate amount of time to process the claim, and this assumes they decide in your favour. Thus my view, and I think bluespanner is of the same mind, it's not worth chasing the seller, as he is clearly determined to maintain his position that the unit was OK. It's going to cost you too much time and money to prove him wrong. I note that you can now leave the seller negative feedback, without them being able to leave you a spiteful negative response. You could try and claim off the carrier, but I don't think it is their problem. Did you insure the package? Did you keep the badly damaged packaging? Did you take photographs before you opened the package? Did you record on the Carriers documentation that the item was badly handled in transit? A series of 'No' answers weakens your chances of claiming off the Carrier. Moving forward, you don't actually say what type of pump this is. It MAY be possible to change the cover from your damaged but leak free pump on to the undamaged but worn pump. I've done this on a CAV DPS pump, but it isn't exactly easy. As you say, the whole exercise has been an expensive training session, from not checking the work of assistants, and the gamble that is an Ebay purchase. Good Luck

You are presumably recalling the 2.4 (?) VM diesel. By all accounts this is probably best forgotten, or left to other 4WD manufacturers.

Are there any accessories fitted, or evidence of accessories being fitted, but now removed? I'm thinking extra driving / for lights, CB, Telephone, Winch, DVD player. Next, remove the two fuses and see what stops working, if anything. You can post pictures in your posts, without having an account on a separate site, so if you can take pictures of any puzzling fitments, save them to your PC hard drive, then post them here, it will help. Cheers.

This is for the bolts securing the Drive Flange. You didn't say which vehicle you were asking about, as both Series and 90's have been mentioned ... The Series 3 manual says 30 to 38 lbf/ft (40 - 51 Nm) for the Front, no figure is specified for the Rear. The 90/110 manual says 44 to 52 lbf/ft (60 - 70 Nm) Front and Rear. HTH

Yes, I've done it. Although this was fitted at the same time as a stiffer front bar. The theory being to maintain the balance between the front and rear roll stiffness. It helps reduce the roll, although the overall effect was not as marked as I'd have liked. The only negative I've noticed is a tendency towards lift-off oversteer if the throttle is closed too much, too suddenly. Sometimes, of course, this becomes a positive when used as a technique to tighten the line around a corner that was entered too fast. My car has a manual gearbox, the effects of engine braking may not be so apparent in an auto boxed car. This sort of thing should not be learnt when in company; use roads that are wide, have plenty of visibility, and are empty. Motorway or dual carriageway access roundabouts can be useful, at the 'right' time of day. The modification was done so many years ago that I can't really recall what a standard 38A handles like, I just notice that when following them round roundabouts, some seem to heel over a lot. I also notice, that if I want to put in the effort through a noticeable curve, or series of curves, that other SUVs seem to fall back from their stance of hugging my rear bumper. Essentially this is just not slowing down too much for corners. I don't know where you are getting one from nowadays. Mine came from WB Handling (I think), a company no longer in existence. Cheers

OK, The wire that is live in both positions, run and starting, will go to the solenoid, so that it will be operated in both the Start and Run positions. The wire that is only live in the starting position will go to the Starter solenoid, as I said earlier. Cheers.

"12v when the key is on the ignition live postition, normal running position" Does this wire remain live when the ignition key is turned to the spring loaded 'start' position? If so, connect this to the stop solenoid in the injection pump. If this wire does not remain live, look at the wire that is ONLY live when the key is in the start position. Is there another wire like this on the back of the ignition switch, possibly White Red, and going to the starter motor solenoid small spade terminal?

I'll say Yes it is. If you were last in the area 5 years ago, it's been resurfaced since then. Still interesting to drive, Disco tow bars can drag, and the scenery is still good. Good Luck.

That's a shame, I believe I did meet and do business with Rob and his wife some years ago at a Land Rover show. If my memory is correct it was unusual for me, in that I sold them something :-) Do you happen to know, or can you find out via any Dutch language site, if the reference information that was on his pages has been absorbed into another site? I'd have thought someone like the Series 2 Club would have happily taken the relevant information on board, and given Rob the credit. No doubt other clubs would do the same, and at least the effort would not be lost. Cheers.

I was thinking along the same lines as Boro. The thicknesses specified by Springerstastic are too thick, which brings problems when welding thick to thin, and in forming (bending) the repair sheets to fit the profiles of the originals. Land Rover chassis were 14SWG (~2.05mm). Bulkhead metal was thinner, I think 16SWG steel. I presume floor plates were the same. 14SWG ~2.05mm 16SWG ~1.6mm 18SWG ~1.2mm 20SWG ~0.92mm 22SWG ~0.72mm I've gone down to 22swg because I believe your Transit may well be 20 or 22 gauge. Similarly, I will add emphasis to Astro_Al's point "practice". Start by 'sacrificing' some of your new sheet metal as practice pieces. Cut up 2" or 3" squares and join them together again. Then, if you have some old body panels to hand, try welding those squares to the old panels. This will demonstrate better than any words on a screen the snags of welding thick to thin. Only weld bright shiny steel, again, welding to dirty steel will demonstrate why. My most essential accessory is an Auto-darkening head mask. Leather gloves come second, that's how important I rate the auto darkening screen. Good Luck - Don't be disappointed if the first day turns out to be all practice, even if some of it is 'repair work' that has to be ground out again.

This is just a general comment, as I'm not 'trained' on petrol V8s. I associate white smoke with burning brake fluid, assuming it is smoke and not steam. Does yours have a vacuum operated brake servo, and if so, what is the fluid level like? Good Luck.

Does anyone know where this site might have moved to? http://www.british4x4.nl/TheSpecialist/engine.htm is the complete url I have recorded, but it's actually http://www.british4x4.nl that seems to have died, or moved and gone to ...? http://wwwBritish4x4.com also seems defunct (ie, the domain has reverted to a Domain Seller). Thanks.

Owners of Series 2As have a reference list at http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.Chassis_...suffix.IIA.html I note that one of the sentences at the top of the page reads "The dates are the issue dates of the Service Newsletter announcing the change", so possibly what the OP needs is a similar collation of S3 Service Newsletter information. Series III Club Forum, or Dunsfold? HTH

Two approaches: Isn't this a situation suitable for an insurance claim? The other approach discusses the relative responsibilities when letting ones child use an bit of kit without ensuring they know how to use it (when there have been many years in which to pass on that knowledge). This encompasses the positive learning point for the rest of the readership, which is why I spent time on the keystrokes. IE, If loaning kit, and especially if loaning to one of your own offspring, don't make the same mistake, of not teaching them how to use it. The 'relative responsibilities' pun was unintentional, but I liked it, so I've left it in. Regards.

How was it? Wet? Busy? Autojumble, I don't think I've seen that mentioned before at Piece Hall, much of interest? I thought hard about going, but having had an unproductive Saturday, I thought I'd better try and recover the situation on the Sunday. Thanks