reb78

I bought one in 2018. I wanted an L322. SWMBO said the L322 was 'too posh'..... We ended up with a D3. I spent months scared to take it far. Have put 25k on it now and all I have done in terms of major work are the front lower arms. It had a coolant leak from an overcomplicated and poorly made part on top of the engine but I caught that as a weep. Its tight to work on but not impossible. A few folks have got engines out with the body on and cross over pipes changed in situ now so people are finding ways around the 'body off' in the WSM. I still feel its a gamble and still want an l322 but our TDV6 has been a decent engine ... so far...

A new O ring and a good dose of RTV as you pull the shaft in as torquing it up will often solve the leak for a considerable time if the hole isn't too worn.

Haha. Yes, price is important. I thought £1000 was a lot for a 200tdi conversion back when they were common! I imagine its quite niche currently and will never be 'cheap' but hopefully will become affordable.

I guess being able to use 4th a lot makes it easy on the gearbox. I just think our vehicles in particular are going to be the easy ones to convert. There are places that batteries could be located without affecting any space inside the car at all and the engine bay lends itself to easy installation of a motor. If someone could invest in the R&D I would have thought there was a fairly large market in LR world (I mean old LR, not the new fangled disco/rr ranges...)?

They almost look like TruckLite copies to me. That said, the blurb suggests they are aussie designed and made, for the RHD market and they are E marked.

This makes a lot of sense to me. I would think (in my capacity as someone who knows very little about EVs!) that an 'off the shelf' kit could easily be made and sold if for all of the series and defender vehicles on here. Complexity would presumably increase in terms of what needs to talk to an ECU from the TD5 onwards. But, a motor of sufficient size, different 'engine' mount and bell/flywheel housing options to link it to various gearboxes, with associated batteries and the necessary control units for them (so its not a heath robinson set of wiring thrown together dangerously but more a kit to follow instructions and fit) could work quite well? I asked ages back if it was as simple as bolting a motor to the gearbox and everyone said 'no, you dont need the gearbox', but what Snagger says above makes more sense to my brain, it might just be that some gears are rarely used but add a load more versatility when you do need them? (plus i have 3 phase, so bunging a decent charging circuit in the yard on the outside of the workshed isnt a great issue!)

I'm curious about that Hummer vs Prius paper. Where is the break point? Both papers talk about discrete mileage figures one arguing the Prius is too low and Hummer too high and vice versa. Someone could presumably model it as a sliding scale and at a certain point they will be equal and above/below that one will have the advantage? It sounds like there were other faults with the analysis though.

Have we merged into the new defender/pretender thread?

Looking forward to seeing this fitted.

Haha. Clever! They probably own the exact word/font combo. They cant own the word or a dont though so i am not sure how they could force someone not to write Defender in the font used by ineos?!

Haha. Clever! They probably own the exact word/font combo. They cant own the word or a dont though so i am not sure how they could force someone not to write Defender in the font used by ineos?!

Maybe print Grenadier Prototype on them? LR cant have a say in that! I like that design above though. You could always offer them blank with the option for people to add a personalised design? 8 letters and three letters max? You aren't using the logo then but I bet people will choose it!

I've got my paint but havent had time to do it yet. How did you prep your chassis?

Was thinking about this earlier. You could make little tabs that clip into the recess so that you arent relying soley on sealant to hold the panel on.

Neither are great but those covering up the failings of EVs and simply being dishonest about their real environmental impact are doing nothing more that creating a future problem like we saw with the big push for diesels 20 years ago. Potentially worse, they are stifling investment and development of other greener technologies by proclaiming they have the answer when, in reality, they probably do not.

NIBYism?? I agree though.

Makes you wonder when Tesla will end up being a dirty company. There vehicles are only zero emission at the point of use so its a curious thing as to how all this is calculated and really just a big con...

As above - can anyone confirm is STC4016 is interchangeable with XPE500010PUY. The former is an early D2 wiper stalk and the latter is for later models. Paddocks suggest STC4016 fits all and have it at a good price compared to everywhere else. My D2 is a late one so would technically need XPE500010PUY

It will be really good if this works. There are a number out there that had this issue and if you and David have found a cure for it then that will be excellent. I wonder how many people are still running these?! There are only a few of us on here I think.

yep. I think this could turn out quite smart!

I like that. Are you sliding the flap up or down? I dont think it matters but I guess down has the potential for the slide part to fall out or down while moving? Up has the potential to let water wick in more.

Yes, maybe try a card mockup. I just think the key hole is quite high up inside the cover so it might not be that easy - especially if in a hurry on a windy rainy night! If you had central locking it would be better. My door handle needs more pressure so i dont tend to push it up from underneath but rather pull from above! I was thinking body filler for the gap, but you are right it is quite deep. What about a piece of plastic to fill it and seal around that?

Its a good idea but I think it will be a right pain to unlock and open.... ? Might be better filling the lip where the water gathers so it doesnt?

Why not just put a new genuine rear section back on? I am sure they are available? https://www.lrdirect.com/wde100660-silencer-rear-ds2-td5 Price may be off putting for genuine but the Bosal one should be the same

Maybe.....