reb78

Ask Ralphs opinion too... @western

Be interesting to hear how you get on with the mileages you do Phil. My commute (start and end of a week) is just shy of 300 miles and I can often clock up a fair bit more in a day. An EV just doesn't seem sensible for me at all. Any issue not getting charge or getting stuck in the cold winter in traffic and needing heat and I can see me stranded. Public transport just doubles the time it takes me to drive and I cant transport much of what I need. Many places I need to visit are nowhere need a train station or bus stop. It also costs as much one way as the return trip in the car and COVID has lessened my desire to use an inconvenient and generally dirty mode of transport even more.

Mine has a 12v socket in the back fed from the aux battery. When I originally got it though we went touring round France for two weeks before I had time to install extra batteries etc. I made an extension to run to the front of the car and the 12v sockets there so it was powered off of the starter battery. I think we ran it for four days without starting the car and the battery still fired the engine up first turn of the key. I had slung a spare fully charged 12v battery in the back just in case but I didnt need it. I have one of those USB jump packs now for the just in case occasions.

They are good prices and some confidence given they are recommended from experience by folk on here.

Plan time to do it before you start... I opted to take the 110 off the road, bought a chassis and now have no time. So I have a 110 getting dusty alongside its new chassis!

I dont know about the cheaper options but the national luna will let you select settings for how low it will run the battery - you can leave it to drain completely if you really want to or set it to turn off before you reach a charge level that wont start the car.

Are they interest if not honey bees? Don't think these are. They are bigger.

I spotted this the other day and thought it might be of interest here. https://www.groupon.co.uk/deals/car-refrigerator-freezer If it works its not a bad price?! It is a compressor unit not just a cooler my National Luna was a fair bit more!

Now thats an idea^^^ plus heat rises and i think CO sinks doesnt it? So safer!

I have a similar issue. They are trying to nest above a frequently used doorway though. Any tips for moving them on without killing them? I hate killing bees.

I was moving some horse **** on the muck pile to try and keep it tidy (why cant these horsey women put it in a tidy neat pile?!) and something moved by my foot. It was a large grass snake. Made me jump until I realised what it was as it was so well camouflaged in the straw!

Because I will upset the people who quote roof weights and poor handling?!

Now I am wondering if I can get a log burner in the roof tent somehow!

Those welds look ok. I wouldnt worry about them!

Says for LHD only on your link Evan so presumably not suitable for the UK? Are they E marked etc if they do do a RHD version?

Oh, and I used the word legal several times as there is a lot of non- E marked cheap chinese carp out there.

I got the Trucklite LEDs at the point my lights went the way yours have. They are the best budget and legal set on the market I think (or were at the time). Still not cheap mind. Do a search on here - their pros and cons have been discussed a few times. Other legal brands get quite expensive in comparison but may have a better light output/spread.

What does it do on existing rust nonimouse? Does it appear to halt it?

KuRust turns purple - thats the hammerite one. I'm sure that's supposed to be ptfe based. I've only used it on VERY mild surface rust though and it does seem to have halted that for 20+ years!

I have some rusty patches on the L322 I have just bought. I spoke to a body shop and they reckoned the underside was sound and just needed treating. Thats what has stimulated this question really. Maybe I do one side with lanoguard and the other with dinitrol and see what happens as we run up to winter?! What Dinitrol product is used for existing rust with best effect? With waxoyl i cant see it working at all.

Its the 'creep' of these as a relatively light product that appeals. Whereas a lot of the wax based products are quite thick unless you thin them down with white spirit, i am guessing these lanolin based products creep well being thin? Trade off seems to be the need to coat more often? Waxoyl does seem to dry out eventually, nicely hiding rust underneath. I have always mixed mine with old engine oil and that's worked ok.

There seems to be increased talk of lanolin based rust proofing products and their effectiveness. Searching around on google its easy to go down a rabbit warren of reading reviews etc on the manufacturers websites and then they become a self fulfilling prophecy that will weld your car back together as they destroy rust... (a bit like our favourite waxoylers old websites and cartoons in the LR rags)... Lanoguard seems the most common but is expensive. What other options are there are they all much of a muchness or is one worth paying for over the other?

I fitted Zeus pistons and genuine seals.

It does look like a crack. Scrape the gunge off maybe and clean it up to check?

I think I am wrong. You definitely have an lt77. I dont remember the base of the bellhousing being so square thats all. Anyway. Can always get you some pics to compare. Where is yours cracked? Take the plugs out. Unless you get glugs of oil out I wouldnt worry too much.