reb78

Whats that deformity on the seal at 9 o clock? It isnt rubbing there clearly but could it have deformed elsewhere?

Haha. Agree and sympathise with all of that Pat^^^ 🙂

Cant imagine that would end well having read bits on their forums before...

I hope my 200tdi chassis is ok! Took delivery just over a year ago and havent done much with it yet! All of these companies have their faults with communication.... so it was hard to know who to go for... I went with Richards as they have been in the game so long in the end. For every good report there was a bad one for nearly every company so much of a muchness i felt in the end.

Thats an absolute bargain for that charger. I have the mxs10 and its saved a fair number of batteries from scrap and kept scrap ones powering electric fences for a lot longer than they would otherwise!

I dont think GKN got it right with maintenance intervals at all on these and thats a big part of the issues. They recommend a 50,000 km oil change interval I think (so about 31k miles)? The thing takes about 750ml of ATF and has very very very poor ability to disperse heat but gets very hot in use. I change my OD oil at every engine service (every 6k miles). It comes out a little dark but not the burnt colour you get if you leave it much longer. I'm convinced this is a big cause of issues seen. Its interesting though as the Roamerdrive was seen as more robust but now they have been around a bit we are seeing failures on them too - although some of that appears to be down to very cheap parts used.

I've said the same about our TD5 disco - it revs quite high and I reckon putting a 1.4 transfer box in with a GKN OD would be ideal. Input gear teeth are different for the 1.2 boxes arent they so much harder to find??

Haha. Well, theres only a few of us that still run them successfully so it feels like a club I can contribute something useful to! I seem to have a sad hobby and have collected two others as spares for mine. @vulcan bomber has been able to repair some broken ones. Ralph - is yours all fitted and working now?

Ah. I'd only do cash on collection unless had some protection through paypal or knew them as a long standing forum member etc.

We had a big long chat about them in 2015 apparently. I dont think we found a resolution though...

How weird. How does this farceache con work then?!

The RS part would be interesting to see. I looked at this for mine a while back but the only RS offering I could find at the time was the wrong thread for the hole on the OD so if you have something that fits and works that would be really handy to know. When D44 were selling the original ones they were extortionate... but then their usual markup is kind of along those lines on most stuff! The other option is to remove the speed sensor and control box completely. I would favour a relay triggered by the button on the gearlever that wont engage if the vehicle is in reverse (use the reverse light feed). I think speed sensors are about the only spares I dont have for a GKN OD!

I do the same with the 110.

I tried a few leather seals on my salisbury but just couldnt get them to seal again after the original started leaking. In the end opted for the replacement flange and updated (non leather) seal kit - https://britcar.com/search.php?query=stc4457&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10 Tightened up as Snagger has indicated. This was probably 7 years ago and at least 50k miles (probably a lot more thinking about the mileage I would have been doing in that time) now at least and all good since.

That was my question too^^^ mine will start in minus figures with no glow plugs.

I wonder if its worth spraying some WD40 about when it is squealing? That will stop a squealing fan belt so i wonder if applied in specific places methodically until the squealing stops, it might help identify the cause? Of course it would mean changing the timing belt afterwards if you spray that but at least might help??

Dry cranks seal?? Isnt it rubber or nitrile or something? I wouldnt have thought it would squeal?!

I was thinking the same thing - if you can feel it it must be too much?

how much difference does it make in reality? Genuine question, always wondered really. I know it will help to be more aerodynamic but how much?

If someone produced a DIY fittable but properly and safely designed plug and play kit for my 110 I would consider it in the future. I would think our land rovers ought to make for a very easy conversion and have space for batteries to give a good range too

Gosh! That is poor. Have Turners anything to say about it? Unlike them to supply such poor parts!

Ask Ralphs opinion too... @western

Be interesting to hear how you get on with the mileages you do Phil. My commute (start and end of a week) is just shy of 300 miles and I can often clock up a fair bit more in a day. An EV just doesn't seem sensible for me at all. Any issue not getting charge or getting stuck in the cold winter in traffic and needing heat and I can see me stranded. Public transport just doubles the time it takes me to drive and I cant transport much of what I need. Many places I need to visit are nowhere need a train station or bus stop. It also costs as much one way as the return trip in the car and COVID has lessened my desire to use an inconvenient and generally dirty mode of transport even more.

Mine has a 12v socket in the back fed from the aux battery. When I originally got it though we went touring round France for two weeks before I had time to install extra batteries etc. I made an extension to run to the front of the car and the 12v sockets there so it was powered off of the starter battery. I think we ran it for four days without starting the car and the battery still fired the engine up first turn of the key. I had slung a spare fully charged 12v battery in the back just in case but I didnt need it. I have one of those USB jump packs now for the just in case occasions.

They are good prices and some confidence given they are recommended from experience by folk on here.