reb78

@vulcan bomber on here can sleeve them for you. He did mine.

Exactly my sentiments. The standard LR setup on these vehicles is pretty good as the others have mentioned above. Suspension is another example - everyone gets excited about expensive HD this and extreme that but the standard (genuine or actual OEM) springs and shocks (which are also cheap relative to some options) are good for the job and good quality. I would keep your overdrive too (I have a working GKN) and appreciate the flexibility it brings (mainly as a 6th gear with the normal 1st gear upwards). You have a Roamerdrive so less to go wrong than the GKN. (I would like to put a 1.4:1 ratio box in my D2 and my spare GKN into that as I think it would drive even better than the 1.2:1 thats in there).

Mine is like Ralphs - the three position flip up handle. Mine doesnt leak but i have to have the handle pointing down - not in its normal rest position - in order to stop a wind whistle as I drive. Its like the seal is slightly too squished after all of these years and just needs that extra bit of compression by moving the handle down.

Thanks Gary - yes, all good. I put the filter in before the canister to avoid misaligning that nipple. The noise stopped quicker than I could have turned the engine off so it was only brief. It sounded like loud tappets, or perhaps even an injector with air in it. Maybe the hydraulic lifters perhaps? It idled fine after that. I haven't restarted it since as it was dinner time and I was cold so came in!! I left the car in the dry so I can change the front air suspension valve block when I go out next, then will start it up and have another listen. Once thats done, thats a long list of jobs complete (Rear brakes complete overhaul and bleed, full service, air suspension and just the front brakes to do).

I'd seen those too previously and wondered if you would mention them. Have you used them? Trouble With Craddocks stuff Ralph is that it has a high chance of being Britpart.

Just after some reassurance... Did an oil and filter change on the TDV6 today as part of a big service. I filled with 5.3l of oil and started up and let it idle. As expected, the oil light took a little longer to go out but just before it did I noticed a 'clacking' noise. It stopped as the light went out and probably lasted 4 seconds, perhaps less Does this initial period of running (presumably as the filter fills?) do any damage? Have others noticed a similar noise? Is there anything to be done to prevent this (could turn over on the crank I suppose?). Its not like we can prefill the filters on these like we could with traditional oil filters. (I had done a fuel filter change as well but I would have thought air in the system would have made noise from startup)

Where do you get replacement seals?

I tried silica bags... they are long gone. Waste of time. Far too much water in a 110 - wet winter, soggy carpets etc... you would need to fill it with silica! When it got really bad I used to keep a proper dehumidifier in the back an run it at night via an extension lead. Curing leaks always helps too

I know its basic but does the fact that it spikes and then performs normally suggest something is sticking when it is left at rest?

You've met me Phil. I'm not that pretty!

Well, its since come to light that that particular one was too busy being a 'Jack the Lad' and more interested in doing work for women he could get other benefits from then whining his missus made him sleep on the sofa... shame as I thought I'd give a young chap a chance. ETA - All I need is the right size circuits and breakers adding for the bits I want to run from the 3-phase distribution board in the shed. The conduit etc is all there. I think I may just do it myself TBH.

Yep. Luckily have 3 phase coming in at the house and goes off to the worksheds from there.

Find a competent and reliable electrician to do the wiring in my workshed so I can power up my bog TIG (needs a 62 amp single phase supply, bit less if I power it on 415v luckily). Need someone who turns up and doesnt run a mile because you ask them for a rough cost in advance....

Actually change the chassis I took delivery of in May '21 for the 110!

I dont know what the exchange rates are but even at 50% $ to £ that sounds a lot. I think my last recore was under £180

And what type of battery are we seeing in EV's?

It wasnt a horrible engine. With them both In factory tune, I didnt really notice a huge difference between the 19j and the 200tdi. It was smoother and quieter than the tdi. Mine would trundle along at 80 on the motorway if I wanted. Trouble is, most gave up at or just over 150k due to the weaknesses in the design.

I have and do exactly the same. You are only gently tensioning the belt so it works quite nicely to be honest.

Thanks. Thats a handy correction!

Are the crank failures normally (bit not always) related to a poor oil pump design on certain aged D3's?

Vulcan Bomber re-sleeved my spare for me. I can get some pics if wanted. My bodge above has held up for about 5 years on the 110 and a year on the box on the D2 so far! When the one on the 110 leaks again the rebuilt sleeved box will go on.

I bought one in 2018. I wanted an L322. SWMBO said the L322 was 'too posh'..... We ended up with a D3. I spent months scared to take it far. Have put 25k on it now and all I have done in terms of major work are the front lower arms. It had a coolant leak from an overcomplicated and poorly made part on top of the engine but I caught that as a weep. Its tight to work on but not impossible. A few folks have got engines out with the body on and cross over pipes changed in situ now so people are finding ways around the 'body off' in the WSM. I still feel its a gamble and still want an l322 but our TDV6 has been a decent engine ... so far...

A new O ring and a good dose of RTV as you pull the shaft in as torquing it up will often solve the leak for a considerable time if the hole isn't too worn.

Haha. Yes, price is important. I thought £1000 was a lot for a 200tdi conversion back when they were common! I imagine its quite niche currently and will never be 'cheap' but hopefully will become affordable.

I guess being able to use 4th a lot makes it easy on the gearbox. I just think our vehicles in particular are going to be the easy ones to convert. There are places that batteries could be located without affecting any space inside the car at all and the engine bay lends itself to easy installation of a motor. If someone could invest in the R&D I would have thought there was a fairly large market in LR world (I mean old LR, not the new fangled disco/rr ranges...)?