reb78

Your place was on the local news today Ralph. Sad that they are shutting that operation down.

Excellent!

Its worse than that - MG are owned by SAIC arent they? So chinese electronic tat....

Shop4autoparts sell them (theres no part number whenever I have looked but they are on their site) Big Redd will also do them if you send them the dimensions (that does mean you have to have had them apart to do that of course).

Haha. I know how you feel Jeff. I achieve so little these days its crazy. The 110 is in year 2 of the rebuild and all I have done is move the new chassis. Bloody ridiculous. Being a silly arse with not enough to not do with the time i dont have, I bought an l322 and then found that it needed more work than I had bargained for. Its sat on the ramp for a month as I contemplate where to start.

Also, as you have the vin of your disco donor, it should be fairly easy to see which bits you need if there are vin variations to parts.

Once you know where you are searching lrcat is easy enough to navigate.

Lrcat should have all you need?

I wish you'd taken my 3.9 if you are going to rebuild this one anyway... you could have had it for £300 complete!

Blimey. Did it used to live in the sea?!

I could never get much sense out of Flux. Went to them expecting wonders given what folk have said on here before. Might have well have been talking to 'Del Boys insurance for Jeeps' I was with NFU for years. Then Cornish Mutual literally halved their quote for me with the same level of cover.

I'm assuming that engine has EGRs from the factory. I wonder what it would look like if they had never been fitted?

Si, if the hole is long. How do you know where to weld the washer?

My original bushes did 25 years. I replaced the lot with genuine for another 25 years. When I change the chassis, the bushes on the current one are all moving over.

I can top that. I replaced the rear brake line on the 110 - the one that runs to the offside rear along the rear axle. When bleeding the brakes i stripped the thread on the bleed nipple on the offside rear wheel cylinder. When replacing the cylinder i poked some chassis rust near the shock mount. Long story short ... I am now replacing the chassis (very very slowly apparently!)!

You could send off to Bigg Red and ask them to do a proper refurb job on your current ones.

I dont know. Mine were some time ago - possibly 12 years now thinking about it! (How time flies!) The Zeus website has always been poor - its like something from the early days of the internet!

I got a set from Zeus for mine. Seemed fairly good.

It looks higher up looking at the oil all over the turbo to manifold pipe and the inlet pipe - are you sure its not just doing the 19J thing and breathing heavy and spitting oil out where it can thats running down?

AP is the OEM. Thats what i would go for. LRDirect did sell them. If you have the part numbers have a search.

With the GKN, just use a decent ATF of your choice but my advice is to change it every time you do your engine oil - its not a big job and the interval GKN state is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too long for 700ml of oil that gets as hot as it does in a worked overdrive! Mine is done every 6k miles and its done almost 150k in my ownership.

I seem to recall @supaimpy knows these inside out...

Excellent ^^

I got Britpart teflon coated swivel balls about 12 (maybe more) years ago for my 110. I chucked the seals and bearings (whatever came as part of the kit and was unbranded) and got timken bearings and corteco seals for fitting. These are the only britpart parts on my 110 but they are about the only BP product that gets good reviews I kept the old swivels in case I could get them rechromed but the EU have made that difficult I beleive!

I have had similar and you have less comeback. I bought a genuine D2 hub - they arent cheap as the bearing/abs etc is all integral and sealed. I put it on the shelf for a few months, then changed it. It failed within half a mile. I was outside of the time for any comeback via ebay by then. The sellers response was 'nah mate, I aint no dealer' (says it all really and sounded like another type of dealer...). Paypal wouldnt get involved in what they perceived as a warranty issue and my credit card provider wouldnt get involved because their contract was with paypal. I was left out of pocket for £120 (thats why it seemed like a bargain compared to the £400ish for the part from LR) with a scrap bearing. I put an £80 bearmach jobby on the car and its still on there about 60k miles later.