reb78

Interesting - so if the intercooler cant cool more then the temp introduced by compressing then you may do more harm than good by increasing boost... I wonder where the sweet spot lies with the standard setup - i.e. is the 0.85 bar it for the factory 200tdi or was there a fair bit of leeway on that?

Whilst we are talking in code, I think I had problems too with who you think we are all thinking of .... My solution in the end was to go elsewhere. I was very disappointed when I learnt that the parts were not always from good quality suppliers that I thought they were using and that I was paying for. Every time I had a problem 'take it off and bring it in' was the answer. That's fine but that's probably 4-6 days (in DIY terms on a driveway to take off and remove over evenings and weekends) plus time to repair that my daily driver was off the road at a time. It just wasn't sustainable given the number of issues I had!

There is a balance though isn't there when you consider intake temps? My understanding is that if you increase boost too much and you compress the air more and therefore heat it more and lose the benefit of the extra boost?? A more efficient intercooler comes into play with this too then. @Daan had some data on this IIRC as he had temperature gauges fitted on both sides of the intercooler.

Call me paranoid, but I do wonder if Terminator Genesys and even the Kingsman movie might have a hint of potential in them!

Do it in third not fourth. You want max revs to test this under hard load.

Weird. So your fuelling is already set to more than standard. what was your boost when u started fiddling?

How have you got the boost pin fitted Chambo? I presume the cut out faves towards the radiator/front of the car?

Trouble is its also related to fuelling, so if yours is fuelled differently to Ralph then I dont think you can compare the wategate directly. Personally I would look at rotating your boost pin in the pump to increase fuelling on boost. The deeper the conical part of the pin that points forward the more fuel you will add. Black smoke under boost is bad so back it off if that happens.

Would it be easier and cheaper to just cut some from some ali sheet Ross? They are just flat panels.

Where is yours David?

Maybe yours isnt 'authentic' Ralph 😱😳

I am running the proflow one from here: https://www.lrdirect.com/STC639-Water-Pump-90-110-200Tdi/?keep_https=yes I fitted mine about 2 years ago I think. I think Mo has one too from memory.

I don't really understand your point... so don't buy a new chassis from anyone? I should have been more specific about the C section comment - It was in reference to the defender chassis. I am not sure why the thread is talking about series chassis now...

I found that as I increased fuel, boost also went up so needed to lengthen the rod again if it went above what I was aiming for. If I got black smoke I backed off the fuelling instead.

Haha. Happy to meet up!

Yep! New pump needed.

Diesel Bob. Look him up. Easy to use service by post.

Thats how I would do it. You can increase fuelling to match the increased boost. I found that adjusting the fuelling led to an increase in boost so its just a case of small tweaks until you get to where you want. My advice is to do a little more reading before fiddling - see the PDF I posted in this thread. (adjusting the boost pin in the pump and the boost via the wastegate will probably be sufficient. I found very little gain messing with the starwheel. The 'max fuel screw' on the back of the pump just needs small adjustments but I would leave it alone unless you have done everything else and want more. An EGT gauge would be a useful reccomendation. I dont have one but perhaps have been lucky). Also - as Nonimouse said service the engine, change all the filters, check the valve clearances, potentially get your injectors serviced too. Make sure all of this is good as you will find gains here too.

But does this make them 'better' than the alternatives? There must be hundreds (thousands?) of alternatives from the likes of Richards being driven around out there without problems. The XD website seems to suggest they use GKN main rails and build the rest around them, Richards rails are welded on all corners (doing away with the two C sections of the original design)... As long as they are well welded, holes in the right place and square then what makes one better than another in chassis terms?

Very nice - I always liked that colour combo on the series vehicles

My 200tdi tops out at 1.5bar boost. Its set like that so I get 1bar at 70mph easily with the overdrive engaged. I rarely, if ever, boot it to 1.5bar. Its been setup like this for at least 8 years. My fuelling is increased, pump timing adjusted, Brunel intercooler fitted and engine in tip top condition. 1bar max wont hurt yours Chambo.

Whys that though Ralph? I have seen the XD ones and they look perfectly functional, correct crossmember for year and fair bit cheaper than Marsland. A local place that changes chassis near me have used Marsland, Richards, Sheilder and XD. They reccomended XD - I was just chatting to them they werent trying to make a sale. They said Sheilder were not good, Richards variable and Marsland expensive.

Yep. Sorry. Pin was the wrong word. Shorter will build more boost, longer less.

Make the pin shorter.

Haha. So no real point! That is the conclusion I kept coming to. One thing (and I cant be sure as I only saw it on one website) was that prices in some places, for the XD HD chassis, were cheaper for the HD version. I suspect that was not correct.