reb78

But if they made and android and ios compatible interface (like ODBII I suppose) then they could pack standard features in and apps for additional ones? That would even enable bug updates etc much more rapidly than via a dealership.

Exactly the same as me. I am just in the process of making a tablet holder for a 7inch tablet with GPS for the 110 so i have a marginally larger screen. I am seriously thinking of ditching the radio for a hidden amp unit (the aerial was broken - I think in 2016 and i only use it for the aux socket!)

I think this could be a really good idea. I was always told that this closed cell foam couldnt soak up water. Mine is like a sponge - its soaked a lot of the winter. My floors have been up and down so many times due to previous gearbox issues that I stopped sorting the seals properly. So... its my fault to an extent. I do the 'put a rock under to dry it out' thing but thats a real pain when I drive the 110 daily and the weather is wet for 4 months of winter! If the matting didnt hold the water, it would be easier to keep dry so I reckon sealing it with liquid rubber might be a bonus... Can you keep us posted if you do - what you use/how it goes/whether its effective etc...?

I am a miserable old git and confess I dont tend to stop and offer a tow unless its a really dire situation and lives are at risk for the reasons mentioned on this thread. Driving in the snow in the past couple of years, I went through some pretty deep and slippy stuff. Towing stuck cars to safety would have been a never ending job and the drivers would only have tried to continue and got stuck again. A very irate audi driver was very angry i didnt let him out in front of me onto the grass beside the hard shoulder on the A30 near Okehampton in the heavy snow in 2019.... there was space behind me so I didnt feel too bad not letting him go in front... he was only behind me for about 20 seconds as he got stuck and blocked the path for other 4x4s that could get through and off the dual carriageway... people dont know their vehicles limits (or their own).

I dont think you said what tyres you have?

I had this issue with my Truklites when driving through Somerset, Devon and Cornwall when the Beast from the East hit the other year. I had to stop every 20 mins or so to clear the lenses. I had to hope out and do it quickly so that the cars I had passed didnt crawl past again and risk them getting stuck in front of me. Eventually the snow got so bad that normal cars and lorries were stuck so that passed ... I have wondered if some old style wipers from a round headlight car could be made to fit the front of the 110.... I think most stuff has been said already. The Truklites fall under the lumen output to require self levelling etc so they don't fall into the same category as HIDs. Interesting to hear they have fixed that dark patch in front of the vehicle on the later models too. These also have filaments in the lens to overcome the problem in the picture above.

Thanks. So I wonder if a bypass to the fuse could be fitted like an isolator that is usually left disconnected other than in the need of a jump start?

I just find it a bit 'lift it and bung a roll cagey roofracky thing on, some spots and a beefy winchy bumper and it must be cool'

So its all setup like this at the moment - the cables are protected in conduit as they run to the battery in the rear and pass through proper glands where they go through the bodywork. I bought a nice crimper to do the battery connections. Thanks for that Fridge I will drop you a PM - (just tried and it says you cant receive PMs?) The other end is probably ok as its a very short run from the relay to the aux battery. I have run out of space in the battery box to install other bits neatly so the relay went in the rear next to the aux battery and the Tmax controller is mounted back there too. Mikes mention of the amps when jump starting did raise another question though - I guess the relay itself might not be up to it... its a 250A relay I beleive?

Problem solved - new thermostat and its bang on 88/89C. The old one cant have been opening I think - this one I can see the temperature dip again when it opens up.

Sounds very perfect!! Good luck!

I fitted an auxilliary battery last year in the back of the 110 to power accessories like the National Luna fridge and Eberspacher when camping. I used two old jump leads that the clamps had broken on to connect the batteries via a T-max split charge. Messing about today, I thought... this positive lead really ought to be fused. The biggest draw on it would be if I ever use the aux to jump the car if the main battery is ever flat. What size fuse should I be looking at using and what connections to connect it up in (presumably some sort of inline holder)?

More tombraid(er)

Plaster 'MADE IN FRANCE' down the sides of it like the old stripes with either 110/90 or Defender on the original 110/90/Defenders?

Check the WSM... I am pretty sure you should not touch the centre nut Mike or you will mess up the timing on the pump. I am pretty sure there is a how to in here in the tech archive.

Whats it actually doing? What sensor was repaired? Has anyone read the codes?

Thats not how i read it bit there clearly could be potentially interested people on this forum. Let it run, its interesting seeing what folk say.

I can only see this one. Looks like a small crack between the valves forming on the right side. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-200tdi-Cylinder-Head-with-valves-fitted-and-Payen-DV720-gasket-kit-/203208546774?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

I reckon you are right Bowie. Too rich for me at that price though unfortunately!

I think I picked one up, refaced including valves, for just shy of £300 Phil. I am glad I had it as when my HG went a couple of years ago this went straight on. I bought another spare from Miketomcat on here but cant remember what I paid now - that was as it came off of the engine but no cracks.

Haha. I was thinking the same thing as Michelle... I don't know a price but may be interested if you find one out and are selling it!

Pah! A proper Defender would have just driven over those barriers.

I dont know them so this isnt a reccomendation but this is under your budget so leaves something for repairs - http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=66&t=62844 (I would change the steering wheel before I even moved it!!) I wish my mum hadnt sold her D2 to my uncle as I would have had it and run two D2s and the 110 rather than the 110, D2 and D3. I toured round Europe one summer in my mums D2 and it was a lovely drive the whole time - it was a Y reg ES spec. If you do get one, try and avoid the 18 inch wheels - 16's are a waaay better ride, some tyres (goodyears) on 18 inch rims bounce around like a bouncy thing and provide a much choppier ride. I don't find ACE makes any difference at all personally. Electric seats are comfier as the base tilts in more ways so you can find more positions that are comfy. Air suspension is nice and people moan about the bags and compressor but treat the bags like service items and change every five years and your compressor will be fine - they are easy to change and not hugely expensive (I dont follow my own advice here).

I have had to weld the body on my D2 for the last three MOTs. Both inner wings in the engine bay now done and the rear sills at the front of the rear wheel arch. My chassis is not bad but wont last forever I think (I have sprayed the inside with waxoyl diluted in old oil several times...). I keep thinking 'next year I wont bother', but its comfy, it tows nicely, it goes well, is easy to work on and really owes me nothing at all. (literally nothing at all as the other half had an accident, insurance wrote it off, valued it at a lot more than it was worth - (£4800 when it was really a £2500 car) - so we bought it back for scrap value (IIRC £1300) and put it back on the road for £400!). There are good ones out there but many that look good are ropey as oneandtwo says. The adverts that say 'its a great vehicle blah blah blah.... bad bits - rear chassis needs welding' and then they ask £3k+ make me laugh - those are scrap IMO. If you are serious, keep an eye out on the d2boysclub forum (need to join to view) as good ones do come up on there occasionally but all need something doing at this stage. I keep looking at P38s as a few members on here have some that they have made look really nice but even those are going up in value now!

LR Direct will have all of this. So will Britcar. If you use LRCat to get the part numbers searching on their sites is easy. Both are very good companies to deal with IME. James has jogged my memory again. My tensioner was INA - It might have come through Bearmach via LRDirect.