reb78

I think it was bearmach I used for the tensioner when I last did the belt on the 110. Definately Corteco for seals and a correction to above - i wpuld have used Elring for gaskets.

Dayco for the belt. I cant remember the make of the last tensioner I bought. The idler depends on whether you have a defender or disco variant - the latter has an idler, the former doesnt. I went genuine for the gaskets as they are important to seal the water pump

I think they are generally better looked after and lower mileage vehicles because they are V8s. I also wonder if the anti diesel brigade has something to do with it.

Nanocom Evo, Ross. I just dont get on with it and its easier to get the Hawkeye from the D3 where its kept on most occasions than to reach behind me in the D2 and pull the nanocom out of the seat pocket. Instrument mode doesn't work (not needed but why put it on there if you aren't going to make it work), accessing the BCU and ABS modules is temperamental and you have to try a number of times to get in there. Brake bleeding made noise but didn't seem to do much in terms of getting fluid to flow from the caliper, every firmware 'upgrade' seems to have a new bug so I stopped upgrading! On the Hawkeye Total, everything just works, it connects, it reads, it clears codes, it tells you what to do in terms of turning ignition on and off for various procedures and making connections to various ECUs and brake bleeding works a treat. I only keep the nanocom so I can change fuel maps if needed. I contacted BBS about it (particularly the errant readings on the instrument mode) - the guys on their forum seemed to want to help but there was no solution, the owner pretty much told me I was lucky to have one of his wonderful machines and should accept its eccentricities (I paraphrase...) When I bought the D3, I thought ok, well I have a nanocom, I will accept I think its a fairly cack bit of kit and upgrade it for D3 functionality - by the time you add on new leads and extra licences it was more than the cost of Hawkeye Total so I went that way instead. IIRC, the D3 lead on the nanocom is backward compatible with the D2, but the D2 lead that came with my nanocom not forward compatible with the D3 so they charge the earth for a new cable. If GAP Diagnostics made a machine that covered earlier models that would be the way to go but they don't seem to cover anything earlier than the D3. (I have a bee in my bonnet about nanocom, ignore me!)

I agree with what the others have said. Chassis chassis chassis - thats why a lot of of these are getting scrapped. we have had one since 2012 (ish) and bar the normal niggles its been a good vehicle, comfy and easy to work on. Its more comfy than the D3 in my opinion. I wouldn't buy a nanocom personally. Temperamental machines and dont always do what they should. Hawkeye Total is more reliable and open to most LR models (unlike nanocom which charge the earth to add functionality for other vehicles). Hawkeye doesnt do some of the programming nanocom will so though (like changing fuel maps).

I agree completely with all of that. Its in the box the new one was stored in waiting for the day that repair is possible/cost effective.

I have a head like that. Its on the shelf now. I am told it is scrap, but I have space so have kept it. The engine had a headgasket failure which is why the head came off. It was running fine (apart from the HG) and I don't think the cracks in those spots were causing any issues. I have two spares that are not cracked as well as the one currently on the engine but you never know how rare these will become and whether repair will look like a good idea in years to come. Hopefully my good heads will outlive me! I wouldn't knowingly buy one with a crack though unless I was really desperate.

I should have made it clear that it was a tongue in cheek comment. Not so say I haven't accidentally done it though. I have rolled into petrol stations several times... once I had to drive in on the starter motor as it conked out about 50ft before the garage.... No bleed needed on the tdi if you do though, it will prime itself. I judge when to fill up on mileage. With normal driving, aim to fill up around 300 miles in the 110 - can push it to 350 but thats getting close to empty.

Its random depending on the gauge fitted. They all go off at different points in my experience. Drive it till you run out and then you will know!

Look up posts from @Daan on this. He did some testing with actual sensors and has some figures. My point was that I am not sure you can just keep upping boost assuming it will decrease egts or produce a better burn. There is a balance and the efficiency of the intercooler will likely come into that.

What intercooler are you running? Its my understanding that if you go OTT on the boost the intercooler cant cool the compressed air sufficiently so whilst you are under the impression you are putting more cool air in with higher boost, you aren't, its hotter and EGTs will suffer as a result.

I think my thermostat on the 200tdi is not opening properly. I have a VDO gauge fitted that measures accurately. Normal driving, the engine is sitting at about 92C (So a few C higher than normal). On hills it was seeing 95C. I also realised today that I wasnt seeing that classic dip in temp as the thermostat opened initially. Top hose was cool when the gauge read 90C - it should be hot at this point I would say. On one test I shot up a steep hill rather quickly and the temps shot up to just under 100C briefly. Is this likely to have done any damage? This is a genuine stat ~2 years old.

The defender one on on my disco came from you... about four or five years ago!

Do you think McGovern and pals took inspiration from the Simpsons as they developed this model to add to the rest of the range https://www.getyarn.io/yarn-clip/4c97a251-e222-44f9-b418-832799a6cb89

Do you collect these Mo? I am sure mine came from you as well didnt it?!

If it breaks as quickly as the rest they wont have this one long anyway....

Possibly, but its an old charger and the clamps aren't insulated etc so I will be bound to short things out that way!! I have ordered a CTEK MXS10 this morning - it will be handy to have a decent proper smart charger and it comes with fly leads that I can connect to the battery under the passenger seat for easy access for charging. I should have done this months ago really. The 110 is normally in daily use. I doubt it has had four tanks of diesel through it since March!

The 110 isnt getting much use at the moment. I ought to charge the batteries. The main battery is difficult to access (under a RRC seat in the battery box). The aux battery is easy to access. They are linked with a T Max split charge. Is there any reason why I cant manually link them on the T Max controller and connect the charger to the aux battery? Its an old style dumb charger.

If its any time in the last 20 years its no great surprise they couldn't diagnose and fix your 109.... they were probably most stumped trying to find the OBD socket. To be fair - most dealerships are like this now. The days of find the fault and fix it are gone.... we live in a world where technicians replace parts willy nilly without any proper investigation until replacement fixes the fault. If you want proper mechanics find the remaining old school garages tucked round the back of old industrial estates with a couple of ramps, no shiny signs and a workshop full of tools for actually mending things.... these places have a waiting list because they are actually good.

I have never found Stokbord To be strong enough for much weight unless its so supported beneath that you may as well miss out the stokbord! I carry other land rovers and cars on my flatbed from time to time. I wouldn't feel comfortable putting them on a stokbord bed.

You also have to laugh at these idiots (Including McGovern I think?) that think the defender was launched shortly after the end of WW2.

Yep^^^ 45amp on defender engines and 65amp on disco ones was what I thought too

The more I look at these really nice P38's the more I like them and wouldn't mind owning one. Its interesting because looking around the prices seem to be on the up lately... There are some real rotten examples out there that are dirt cheap, but anything nice is making good money now.

I had it in my head they were actually owned by Amazon and like Alexa can listen in on things they arent supposed to, Ring means they can also watch things that you dont think others are watching?

We parted amicably enough but were probably both very happy to see the back of each other in the end. I just seemed to have a bad box and too many incurable issues and I couldn't afford the downtime every time it failed. I sourced an alternative elsewhere and it has been trouble free for nearly two years now (covering a significant mileage in its first year, less this year due to lockdowns). In this case, the reduction in overheads didnt pay off....