Pete Attryde

Ta muchly, Looks to be the right bit. Pete.

Anyone have the part number for the piece of rubber hose that connects the fuel filler to the tank on a 1996 TDi Auto Discovery 5 door it's a TA chassis number. Thanks Pete.

I have no idea if this is of any use, but I came across this lot a few weeks ago whilst looking for a coil spring manufacter :- British Springs Pete.

I have used Britcar a few times for genuine parts. Always very helpful. Click Here Pete

I attached the new pipes on my rear axle using a large ty-wrap around the axle with a piece of rubber hose as a support between the pipe and the axle. like this:- Pete.

another option would be 245/75/16 which has a diameter of 30.5". Pete.

I suspect the closest size would be 235/70/16 which is a standard size for discovery 1's, has a diameter of 29" HTH Pete.

I currently run X-springs on the back of my Discovery and to get them to work nicely I ended up turning the lower spring seats over. This resulted in a lift of approximately 25mm because of the top hat shape of the spring seat. What I now need to do is replace the rear springs with some HD ones which will also give approximately a 20mm lift when un-laden, this will result in a total of 40mm lift which is more than I require. Can I safely replace the top hat section with a piece of flat plate (6mm thick steel) reducing the lift by approx 10mm which in combination with removing the rubber spring isolator (also approx 10mm thick) will get the back end back to where it is now. Pete.

If you take the pads out does the wheel turn freely? If not I would suggest checking that the wheel bearing has not seized/corroded/dried out. Pete.

This from the tech archive will probably help :- Click Here Pete.

If it was me and I had the parts to hand I would replace the bearing and seal anyway as it will save having to take all apart again when you find the seal was damaged because of the loose nut. Pete.

Depends a bit on what wheels you will be using? On mine when I had that size (on Modular wheels) I found they caught on the rear of the rear wheel arch when off road but were fine on road. Pete.

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Well in that case Dafydd i'll take your one ta. Pm heading your way. Pete.

Thanks for the suggestions and offers, I'll go with the one from Mark as he offered first and I don't mind drilling 4 holes in the bumper to attach it. Pete.

Re the bumper, yes it is that one . I am not adverse to drilling it so yes please I'll have it thanks, let me know what you want for it/postage and I'll paypal/ send cheque. Pete.

Mark, That would be ideal as I am in no rush just trying to get all the bits together. I still need to relocate the transmission cooler etc before I can fit the winch. Pete.

On mine I had to work through the starter motor hole, it has a cut out to allow a socket to be used on the bolts. There is an inspection cover on the bottom of the bell housing but IIRC it doesn't allow access to the bolts. Pete.

I am fairly sure you can get Hawse type fairleads for steel cable, but much searching on here and via google has not helped me find a supplier, can any one suggest a good supplier. Pete. and before you ask I don't like the look of the roller type fairleads and as the winch will only see occasional self-recovery type use I can't justify buying synthetic rope and an alloy fairlead. Pete.

235/85x16 is approximately 31.5in in diameter so is actually slightly taller than the 31/10.5x15. A 235 tyre is 235mm wide where as the 10.5 is approx 265mm wide . Hope this helps Pete.

I think it depends on the type of journey the vehicle regularly does. Mine mostly does a 25 mile journey on narrow B roads and rarely exceeds 50mph due to the type of road. Because with the 1.4 transfer box I get torque converter lock up at about 40mph rather than the 50ish mph it was with the 1.2 transfer box i get better fuel economy, where as if I was doing lots of motorway driving the 1.2 box would give better economy as the engine would be at lower rpm for a given speed. Hope that makes sense, Pete.

It's nice to have a crank locking tool as it makes the job so much easier (especially on an Auto). Also a decent torque wrench for doing the crank bolt back up also helps, and a spring type (rather than click) torque wrench for setting the tensioner correctly plus a 9 or 10 mm drill bit to lock the pump. there is a good guide in the tech archive Click Here Pete.

I'm fairly sure yours won't have ECU I think it was only the 1996 onwards Auto's that did. Beyond that I can't help. Pete.

Certainly on mine when it had a rearward facing end it was so noisey that you couldn't have the passenger window open if your were driving. As I said before since fitting the top I have now, i have had no problem with water being ingested from the water thrown up when hitting large puddles at speed. Pete

Why thank you, . I think that is evolution number 6 and seems to work very nicely. Pete. (Raceface as was)