Pete Attryde

As BM says should be on nearside near the glove box:- Location:- The Unit:- Pete

This thread might help :- EDC removal, From memory it cost me about £300 to get all the bits and I got £200 back by flogging the removed bits. Pete.

Mines also had the solid pipe for a couple of years and no sign of problems. Pete.

Not without a large amount of cutting of the arches and on standard axles internals you are likely to break something quite quickly with that size tyre. Plus your gearing would be quite badly altered leading to terrible acceleration. Pete.

Yep, wobble fixed. Fitting new wheels and tyres seems to have solved it. I suspect that one of the tyres might have been outta shape. I'll ping you a pm later. Pete.

Rog, With the type shown you can take the bit with the slot out of the back of the joint which allows removal of the internals, this then allows the main body to be cut carefully through with a hacksaw allowing it to be removed relatively easily with out the use of a large press. As for refitting I used a couple of bits of studding to keep it all in line and the pressed it back together with a 1 ton press. HTH Pete Sorry for the slight ot.

Well done! Only taken you how long to fix it?? :ph34r: Pete

Yes, I use them a fair bit. Service has always been excellent and they sell genuine as well as Britpart etc. Not always the cheapest but you always get what you ask for. I would definately recommend them. Pete.

Why not just buy a 12v motor for the winch? Pete.

I got my propshaft from Devon 4x4. It is fully re-buildable and all the joints are greasable, plus it has the correct flanges on it so that it was a direct swap. Pete.

If you use the vehicle off-road you may find that the bushes restrict the already not very good front articulation where as the arms will not. As already said if you need to correct the castor your will probably have to change your front prop to a double cardon type to cure the ensuing vibration. On mine a 2" lift left the handling not at all nice, very vague at anything above 45 Mph. However I also know that when this subject has been raised before lot's of people have said they have had no problems at all. Pete

What about the vulcanising glue from an old fashioned bicycle puncture repair kit. Pete.

My 300TDi is the same I just used a long socket and extension to undo the bolts. Used a bit of sticky tape to hold the bolt in the socket when putting it back together. Mine doesn't have an adapter plate as it's a factory Auto. Pete.

I doubt anyone one here will post a reply telling you how to bypass the immobiliser as, with all due respect, the point of the immobilser is to help prevent the vehicle from being stolen. . However on my 300TDi I used the various wiring diagrams in the rave manual to work out how to remove the factory immobiliser and install a better one. So if you are reasonably good with electrics, download the manuals from the links in the tech archive, and spend a couple of hours working out which wires you need to get the thing running. Pete.

Here are some photo's of the finished conversion:- Throttle pedal cable connection Throttle cable and Kick-down cable at firewall/bulkhead Injector pump in place Position of kick-down cable bracket after spacing it to clear pump. Also shows secondary throttle return spring. AFM replacement pipe. Obviously i'm not useing a standard airbox but the principal will be the same. Boost monitor pipe at the pump end And at the turbo end. HTH Pete.

When you are happy that all is working as expected you can remove the Engine ECU from behind the drivers side kick-panel and sell the parts to help recoup the cost of the Non-EDC pump etc. Pete.

Right I have had a few PM's about this since I converted my Discovery Auto from EDC. I did this at least 18 months ago so some details may have been forgotten but, I thought I would try and write a how to. To replace the EDC system you will need to source the following items, :- A non EDC injection pump from a 300TDi (either Discovery or Defender). It doesn't matter if it has the EGR pot on it as that is easily removable. Make sure it has the throttle cable bracket attached. :- Ideally the 4 metal injector feed pipes that go with the Non-EDC pump (although not vital as it is possible to use the existing ones with a little modification) :- The boost monitor pipe that runs from the waste gate connection to the boost diaphragm and its associated banjo bolt and washers. :- A throttle cable. (I used one for a Range Rover as I had it kicking about) :- New cam belt and tensioner etc. (again not vital but you will be disturbing the cam belt so you might as well change it.) :- A suitable piece of pipe to replace the Airflow meter. :- A selection of bolts, washers, nuts and springs etc. Taking into account that I don’t have an air-conditioning pump installed on my engine at the moment. I suspect you will need to move it to get to some of the bolts. I started by following Uncle Les’s excellent post (from the Tech archive) on replacing the cam belt to strip the front end of the engine. Having removed the cam belt I then disconnected the injector feed pipes from the back of the pump and the injectors and covered the ports to stop any muck getting in. Then disconnect the electrical connectors (2 of them 1 large and white and 1 smaller and black)and the fuel supply and return lines, un-bolted the injection pump from the timing cover (IIRC 3 or 4, 13mm nuts at the timing cover and one at the rear) and lifted it off the engine. At this point unbolt and move to one side the kick down cable bracket. If you have the fuel supply pies that match the Non EDC pump then, next install the replacement pump on the timing cover and bolt it up. However if like me you don’t have the correct pipes you will have to do the following before you install the pump. On the back of both pumps there are the unions for the injector pipes to connect to, these have a hex section (13mm I think) to allow them to be un-screwed. Starting with the EDC pump carefully and over a clean surface remove each union and the spring and plunger that are held in place by the union. Then do the same on the Non EDC pump next install the union, spring and plunger from the EDC pump into the non-EDC pump. The reason for this is that they are a different length and by changing them you can then install the original EDC injector pipes. Next fit the cam belt as per the rest of Les’s thread. Little bit of electrickery next, you need an ignition controlled feed for the stop solenoid, this needs to be live whilst cranking as well. I reused the feed in the original loom (located using a multi-meter and I can’t recall the wire colour at the moment) but had to extend it to allow it to reach the stop solenoid. Next reconnect the fuel supply and return pipes (I used new banjo bolts and washers). Re-install the injector pipes but leave the injector ends loose to aid bleeding the system. On the turbo side of the engine locate the waste gate control pipe tee piece, 1 branch of the tee goes to an electrical unit on the fire wall. Disconnect this pipe and replace it with the monitor pipe. This monitor pipe runs round the back of the engine and connects to the boost diaphragm on the pump. You can un-bolt and dispose of the electrical bit and associated pipe work. Still on the turbo side, disconnect the Air Flow Meter (AFM) electrical connector and tie it back to the main loom securely disconnect the inlet pipe work from the AFM and un-bolt and remove it. Replace with suitable sized pipe. Reinstall the aircon pump if you removed it. At this point you can bleed the fuel system (I did this by cranking the engine over until fuel came out of the injector pipes which, with the engine still being cranked, I then tightened ) and the engine should start. When you’re happy the engine is running correctly, switch it off. Time now to install the throttle cable. Working under the dashboard disconnect and remove the throttle pot, from memory this was a little fiddly but not complicated. With the pot removed disconnect the kick-down cable. Working from the engine bay drill a hole through the firewall next to the kick-down cable to suit the throttle cable. Push the throttle cable through the firewall working under the dash, and using a suitable length bolt connect the kick-down and throttle cables to the throttle pedal. The end of the pedal is forked to allow the kick-down cable to sit inside it and then the throttle cable sits on one side. IIRC I used an M5 shanked bolt and Nylock nut, the length of the shank was such that both cables ran on the shanked part rather than the threads. Back in the engine bay run the throttle cable to the injection pump making sure the adjuster is seated correctly in the bracket at the rear of the pump and then connect the cable to the throttle spindle (again I used a suitable shanked bolt and Nylock Nut.) Re-install the kick-down cable bracket to the timing cover, I had to space mine up about 25mm so that it cleared the top of the injection pump which is a different shape to the EDC one. Adjust the throttle cable to give the correct pedal action. Put the tools away, start the engine and go for a drive . I found initially that the throttle pedal felt a bit odd but soon adapted. The other bonus of this conversion is that you can now tweak the pump to gain some extra horsepower if you want. Although I would recommend fitting an EGT gauge before you do so as to minimise the risk of damage to your engine. Like I said at the beginning it is at least 18 months ago that I did this job so my memory may be a little shaky ;-) but I think I have covered most things. Sorry for the lack of pictures I will try and get some over the weekend. Pete

Over here OEC are TJM suppliers so it might be worth giving them a call. Pete.

The original front fogs were almost certainly 55w each anyway, so you should be fine. Pete.

You could also try Camskill tyres :- Camskill 235/85*16 tyres Pete.

Is it possible to get a rebuild kit for these jacks? As I have just discovered mine won't lift my discovery high enough to get a 32" wheel/tyre on let alone 33" ones that have just ordered. Both stages are lifting but looking at Daves picture the top section is not fully extending. It has plenty of oil in and is going rock solid at the upper end of the available travel.

What's not impossible? I junked the EDC on my Discovery, about 2 years ago, in favour of a mechanical pump as the EDC was getting more and more unreliable but as said above I had to replace the Electronic injection pump with a mechanical one plus change a few other bits and pieces and install a throttle cable. Pete.

As Jim says no you can't use the pump you will need a none EDC one, you can use the EDC injectors with the non EDC pump but you will need to swap the pipe work over as well. Pete.

I also had to 'adjust' the body work to clear the bracket that holds the cable, it just not obvious in my picture. The operating lever doesn't move far enough to touch the body work. Pete.

Back plate is fine. It fits in a different way on the Discovery brake compared to the Defender. I agree with Bowie that the arm needs repositioning. Mine sits more vertically :- Here is a picture of mine:- Pete