Pete Attryde

The low ratio is the same in the discovery LT230 as it is in the defender LT230, it is only the high ratio that is different. editted to add:- As far as I know all the Discovery 1's were fitted with the 1.2:1 ratio boxes (although some may have had them changed since then . )

I actually think that a factor in the corrosion on mine is that it has hardly been off-road since I fitted the shocks, this has ment that the shocks have only been using a very small amount of their travel most of the time and the rest of the rod has not been wiped clean by the seals on a regular basis. I will just have to get the thing muddy more often to cycle the shocks to prevent corrosion .

Cheers folks, The boots on these shocks also have drain holes at the bottom but obviously not in the right place. I have spoken to the supplier of the shocks (David @ LLama4x4) and they are sending me a replacement under the warrenty which is good, however I have also paid out for a set of old man emu shocks from Gwyn Lewis (Nice man to deal with on the phone.) Interestingly from chatting to David it seems as if he is in the process of designing a better system for use with the rough country shocks.

Morning, On the way home last night my near-side rear shock absorber decided it didn't much like it's contents and spat it all over the rear of the Discovery. Investigating the cause when I got home I found that the piston rod had corroded inside the shock boot causing the seal to fail. This was partly caused by the fact that I took the 2" lift springs off and re-fitted standard height ones, leading to the shock running on the damaged part of the rod. This is the second failure of a shock in this position in 9 months, the first one failed in a similar manor but caused by rocks bouncing off the rod (I didn't have the boots fitted) and damaging the surface. The shocks were from different manufactures (both reasonable but not the most expensive) so I don't think it is a design issue, however I am now at a loss as to how to stop this happening. What are others running/ how do you stop this happening.

I believe that there will be some play in the turbine as it relies on oil pressure to create the bearing. Do you have a boost gauge installed? at least it would tell you wether the turbo is doing it's job. Have you checked that the air intake is not blocked, I know when the snorkel on mine ingested a load of leaves in the lakes last november Uncle Les thought I had killed my engine because of the amount of black smoke coming out of it. HTH

Mine ordered too . Best of luck to Jez and the gang.

Best photo I can find is this one.

Mr Henson you are a naughty man. .

Good luck, That first long trip after major work is always nerve racking.

I have 31x10.5X15 KL71's on my discovery and have done about 10,000 miles on them so far. I like them as they work well on road and not especially noisey, seem to be wearing well and grip well off road too. The only time I have been a little worried about them was on a wet grass side slope, but the 110 I was with which was on BFG M/t's was also trying to slide sideways so I suspect that it was more down to the conditions than the tyre.

Cheers Mike, I hope it is 1/8 NPT because the fitting for the thermocouple is also 1/8 NPT.

Pics would help It could be for the EGR system.

True, but I am not in a position to remove the sender and check the threads as I can't easily work on the vehicle at work. I am leaning more towards plan B at the moment, but if I get it wrong I then can't use my truck until I can get a replacement sender / blanking plug or adapter for the thermocouple to stop the coolant from escaping. I suspect it is probably M10x1 but would just like to confirm this before taking the plunge. Pete.

Cheers Ralph, That is plan B, Plan A is to have one of the lads at work turn an adapter up on a lathe, hence needing to know the thread size.

Thanks Luke useful info, these people list them at £5.41 ea as opposed to £5.36 for a changeover. HTH

Mike, having had a quick look on the RS website they don't seem to list any normally closed relays with a sensible current rating. Although not ideal a change over relay will do what you want all be it with an un-used terminal. To make sure there is no risk of a short on the spare terminal if you connect the live to the 87a terminal and the load to the 30 terminal, the spare terminal will be dead at all times. HTH

As Ivan says, if you use a 5 pin changeover relay and connect the item to be controlled by the relay to the 87a post rather than the 87 post it will do what you want.

On a Discovery 300TDi EDC engine there is a temperature sensor in the head above number 3 piston anyone know what the thread size is as I want to get an adapter to fit a thermo-ouple to the head instead of the original sensor. And before anyone says the EDC won't work with out the sensor, I don't have the EDC fitted any more so the sensor is just filling up the hole to prevent coolant loss. .

Woohoo, After a couple a days hard graft, and the able assistance of Mike, I have a working Discovery again . I have only driven about a mile in it so far but my intial impression is that, unsurprisingly, the new box is much smoother and quieter than the old one. I now suspect that the old box had been dying for a while but I had not assciociated the noises with the gearbox. I have to thank Ashcroft's (especially Ian) who have been very helpful and efficient in helping me diagnose the fault and supplying me with the replacement gearbox and torque converter. Pete.

I also have one fitted to mine, However mine is a ZF auto/LT230 setup. I found pretty much the same as Mark when I fitted mine. Works very well when set up properly. Pete.

Cheers Tony. Pete.

Just to be picky in the original thread in the International Forum, that the tech-archive thread was taken from, I did mention I had a lift although at the time it was only a 1" lift, however this is editted out from the tech thread. Pete. Oh and it's Raceface120 not Ratface120. but I shan't take offence. .

Nope, definately an LT230 on the Discovery auto. I have just pulled mine out to get the duff Auto box out and found that the housing the lever sits in was full of water which was causing the shaft to rust and therefore seize up (I had the same problem). I will be cleaning and re-greaseing mine before it all goes back together. Pete.

Right after a bit of effort we have managed to track down the issue:- It appears that I have anasty infestation of Transmission Troll who have eaten my gearbox Sorry Mike couldn't resist. . With Mike's assistance I now have the box out of the car. every thing seems to be in good condition even the flex plate is in good nick so hopefully the new box will see me mobile again. Pete.

I probably didn't realise it was an issue as mine has a 2" lift which gives a bit more clearance. Pete.