Pete Attryde

I would second that opinion Mr fridge. Pete.

I don't want to be the voice of doom but all three rovers we had in our family suffered head gasket failure at approx 38,000 miles. They were two rover 200 1.6's (an S plate one and a 52 plate one) and a rover 400 1.6 (P Plate). All owned by different members of the family and all well maintained. Having said that it's not a big job to do as long as the leak is caught soon enough. and I am half looking a getting the missus a freelander as her next vehicle and will quite happily consider the petrol one as well as the diesels. Pete.

My first 4x4 was a 1986 90 TD, also had:- A twin turbo Subaru Legacy A Mk1 Mitsubishi L200 crewcab and the current 1996 300tdi auto Discovery A 1996 RM125 A 1989 YZ250 A 1992 YZ125. Pete.

I agree with Mo. I just can't see the neighbours liking me if I ever managed to get one. I would also quite like a go in one of the really quick Dakar support lorries as they look like fun. Pete.

I have just sorted a similar problem on mine. The two rear passenger doors needed new lock motor's about £12 ea for reasonable ones (They don't need to be genuine parts, most car alarm places will sell something appropriate). The rear door I just cleaned and lubricated all the linkages and the lock is now working fine. previously it would not un-lock but would lock. I suspect in the future I'll have to replace the lock motor on this door as well. HTH Pete.

I got mine for a couple of quid off Flea-bay. Pete.

I would be interested as well. I have just ordered some from millers so will report back when I have tried it. Pete.

I have one like that and it works fine. I suspect if you were using it commercially it might wear out quite fast but for the occasional use I put it to it's fine. Pete.

you could try one of these:- Carb damper oil dashpot oil My old man uses one of them in the SU's on his MG, can't remember which one, but it works well. HTH Pete.

The cynic in me says that they don't need a wading kit because if you go into deep enough water to require one, all the electronics would die. Have not heard a real reason though. Pete.

Ok so you have power to the main terminal of the starter (because your spot lights still work and are connected to the starter motor), but do you have power to the small wire that controls the solenoid when the switch is turned to the start position. If not then the motor ain't going to work. Also the afore mentioned tap on the starter with a hammer whilst trying to start the engine will possibly free up a stuck solenoid or motor brushes causing the starter to work. HTH Pete.

To fit the pressure sender you will need an adapter to allow you to connect both it and the warning light switch to the engine, places like demon tweeks do them. I can't remember what the thread size is though. For the temperature I was/am going to get a boss welded/brazed into the sump and fit the sender there. HTH Pete.

this doesn't look to good. Dakar cancelled Pete.

I have just got back from having my disco MOT'ed tonight and it passed no problem, it's fitted with disco parts tree and rock sliders. There was no mention made of them at all. They look like they are home made. HTH Pete.

Welcome to the forum. This has been done to death. A search of the discovery forum would throw up some threads. this one for starters Pete.

I do the same as Les, for the same reason. Pete.

mine used to buzz like that too! not sure but i think it is an EDC thing and nowt to worry about. Pete.

I changed mine to mechanical as I had several problems with the EDC on mine and it was cheaper (and less time consuming) to fit a second hand mechanical pump than it was to fix the EDC. I don't agree that a non-EDC disco feels sluggish in comparison I actually think that mine feels better now that it is non-EDC but I have tweeked the pump slightly so is not totally standard. Mine had 115,000ish on the clock when I changed the pump. I think if you are not having any problems, then you may as well leave it as it is. Pete.

I have just binned the original alarm off mine and replaced it with this I had to add a couple of additional relays to run the central locking correctly (I even managed to get the courtesy light to come on when the doors un-lock). It took me about a day to get it all to work properly. As Bogmonster says the central locking is part of the alarm ecu (at least on my 1996 one). Pete

Sounds like it might be the infamous spider. Which may or may not be located behind the centre of the dash depending on wether or not its an Auto. Bogmonsters thread from the tech archive may help. Pete. beaten by the Bogmonster again

I have one you can borrow if your up this way and it folds up so should fit in the Audi. Pete.

Electronics wise the 300TDi auto's have EDC (Electronic Diesel Control) which has been known to give a few problems although it is possible to replace the system with the conventional mechanical one. The Alarm spider can cause starting issues but this is also fixable. Other than that, rust in the sills, boot floor, front footwells, Inner wings etc. Pete.

I am hoping to escape to the freezing cold drive to work out how to mount the soon to be arriving toughbook on the dashboard, and sort out the CB install and about half a dozen other little jobs. I bet it rains the whole time . Pete.

It should be behind the kickpanel on the drivers side. It's tucked in well and getting to the connector is a bit fiddlely. Pete.

Surely if the stat is doing it's job correctly the hoses to and from the rad are going to remain reasonably cool to the touch as if the engine temp does not reach the opening temp then it won't have opened thus there would be minimal hot water flowing to the radiator. A lack of heat from the heater could be down to an airlock in the heater pipes rather than a lack of heat from the engine, and the low temp gauge reading could be a faulty temp sender. Can you verify independantly the temperature of the water in the block? I would be inclined to try blanking off about half of the radiator (make sure you don't cover the intercooler) and seeing if it gets hotter. I also can't see how a blocked rad or failed pump would lead to a cooler running engine but stranger things have happened. Pete.