Disco-Ron

Thanks. . The reason i ask is that there's whats described as a 1967 series on ebay, which was apparently registered in 76, but is tax free, trouble is that surely a 67 build would be series 11a, . . But its got an s111 bulkhead. . . Its in classics if ya wanna take a look, seems too cheap to me too . .

As above, simple question really.......... Cheers.

Thats right, you don;t need to have the wheels off the ground, in fact that would make it more awkward..... chock the wheels as you thought and support the vehicle on the chassis and you'll be fine, you'll be able to move the axle slightly to get the arms re-aligned when you come to refit them...!

YOU MUST SUPPORT THE VEHICLE ON THE CHASSIS!!!!!!!!!! Sorry for the caps, but this is safety critical........... the axle can easily twist itself and cause issues.....!!!!!!

not wishing to teach anyone to suck eggs, but you do have the bleed nipples at the top don;t you...????? lots of people fit them on the wrong side and wonder why they get a soft pedal......

Is your truck lifted..?????? if it is, i would suggest that the issue is the fact that the lift has effectively vis the panhard rod pulled the front axle off centre, hence the 3mm gap at the front of the rear wheel....! This has lead to the two axles not being in line as it were......

Putting even more weight onto the rear door of the defender isn;t a good idea, hence why so many people go for a swingaway type carrier as it is..!

Yup....

I get this on the hose that exits the turbo........... all new hoses and clips, so not sure what thats all about........

extend the engine snorkel to the other side then.....

I sorted this issue on my 300tdi........... i simply made another snorkle to match the engine intake one............. it was in trial stage when this pic was taken, its now powder coated black like the other one.

Join a club Sam, thats the best advice you can get............ get to know other owners, and a few words of advice, if you go to the clubs monthly meet, make an effort to talk to people, don;t sit back and wait to be spoken too, cos unless you wear a land rover t shirt, no-one will know you're a land rover person!! we've had exactly this in our club, and we get moaned at for not welcoming people!

That 101 needs defender arches on it now.......... looks good though!

I think you'll find that the back edge of the bumper is not flat, its tapered towards the corners of the truck, hence the need for a cut and therefore weld.......

if you decide to take the engine out route, if the splines won't line up straight away, remember not only to turn the engine via the pulley bolt, but also make sure the hand brake is on and its in gear, otherwise as i found out, the input shaft will just turn with the crank. . . A damn healthy wobble goes a long way too!

When i tried mine with no silencer, i decided i wanted to change the position of the exit, but i didn;t want it as a side exit, as i donlt like the idea of throwing soot over pedestrians..... so mine exits to the right of the tow bart, pointing downwards, it doesn't protrude beyond the towbar brace bars..... it now goes over the axle as per original, then goes straight back a little, then 90deg towards the drivers side, then another 90deg this time pointing downwards........ works for me.. plus i don;t get sooty when i stand by the back door, hence why i crossed it over to the drivers side....

I would advise a small silencer rather than the cat, a silencer is still free flowing.... a cat is like sticking a potatoe up the exhuast!!

I tried my 300 without any silencers, well, far too loud, it was changed within 24hrs . . . And i don't use my truck much, and i still couldn't live with it!

Its difficult to check turbo function without a boost gauge, but if you remove the inlet pipe you should be able to spin the intake rotor... severe lack of power would incicate that it might be siezed.... plus, if the inlet pipe is not round, there's a small chance that it might be collapsing under vacuum and causing the engine to be starved of air....

So, there's a land rover for sale on Ebay, well, lots, but this one caught mny eye for some reason..... i won;t post the link so as not to promote it, but here's the text from the ad.... Last summer it has had over £3,000 worth of work carried out by ********* Landrover (name removed so as not to 'knock' anyone) . This included new gear box, new clutch, new discs and pads, new wheel barings etc. Berkshire Landrover carried out a health check on the vehicle and it passed it MOT. name removed.. Landrover has given the following advisory items to be completed in the future; engine breather pipe and rocket gasket (costs £75), new alternator belt (£75), tighten drivers door lock (£35), wheel balance (£68), wheel alignment (£68), near side indicator stork needs repairing. Everything else mechanical passed their health test and the MOT. It was last serviced when I bought the vehicle, 18 months ago so I guess it is now due a service. I have loads of reciepts and paperwork but I do not seem to have a service history booklet. I have all the Berkshire Landrover documents/receipts. The vehicle has a little rust as shown in the pictures. The near side front light grill has a little rust, the front A bar has rust bubbling under the black paint and the rear bumper has some rust bubbling under the paint (all shown in the pictures). There is a tiny amount of rust on the rear door (near the handle) and near the rear CB ariel. Please ask for more pictures if needed. It has two sets of keys. It has lived in Kensington & Chelsea and viewing is now only available in Epsom, Surrey. Test drives can be arranged prior to the end of the auction. It has a CD player and a CB radio both of which need repairing. Now, is it me, or does £68 for wheel balancing, and another for wheel alignment sound over the top..... i mean, alignment on a land rover is tracking right....?????????

something is clearly not right............. have you had an oppurtunity to check that the turbo is working, it almost sounds like you're not getting any boost, esp with loads of smoke and no power..... if it really was screaming at 50, then a slight incline with proper power levels should be a doddle..... sounds to me lie the turbo ain;t workin!

I recently fitted a new wiper motor to my 90, (300).... i also fitted a new park switch, when i fitted my gear into the new motor i had to really push on the gear to get the circlip on the end of the shaft...... now, justa few weeks later sometimes when on intermitant i get two or three wipes at the same time, is this likely to be down to the wheel being too close to the park switch, or does it sound like the relay is having a fit.......?? Cheers.

When i first got got 300/90, i drove it 300 miles home, that was the most it'd travelled in about 2 years due to being only used as a mobile display unit for the national trust, on the motorway home i struggled to get it to do more than 55 ish..... having now used it quite a bit and done a fair amount to it, it will now do 90 odd......... occasionally..... there is a small chance the engine may be very underpowered...... maybe the fuelling is wound right down.... maybe the cam timing is out...... does it have a cat in the exhuast..??? these and lots more factors will limit the speed of the vehicle............

In truth the biggest electrical thing under a 300 bonnet is the alternator, i never worry . . Just get it clean and be done with it.

You wouldn't believe how many times i.ve heard stories like this, on alsorts of vehicles. . It seems lots of people think the air will fall to the bottom of the caliper, No. . . As you found out, one trial i.ve heard of being used is to unbolt the caliper, put a piece of wood between the pads, turn the caliper up the other way, bleed it. And re fit . . .